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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.! 



THE 



MONET-MAKER'S 

MANUAL; 

AND 

SECRETS OF SUCCESS. - 

Containing Many Invaluable Recipes for 
the Better Enjoyment of 

Health, Wealth and Prosperity. 

Embracing a Full and Complete Essay on the Right Treat- 
ment of that Noble Animal the Horse — How to 
Train and Educate, as well as How to Keep 
Him in the Best Condition. — Also, How 
to Prevent and Cure the Numerous 
Diseases to which He is Liable ; 
Together with Much Other 
VALUABLE INFORMATION, 

TO BE UNIVERSALLY BEAD WITH PLEASURE AND PROFIT. 






BY J. W: S T E P H E N 



New- York : 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOB, 

NO 37 PARK ROW, 

18CG. 



.^3 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, 

BY J. W. STEPHENS, 

In the Clerk'a Office of the United States District Court for the 
Southern District of New-York, 



PEEFACE 



The title page of this work will sufficiently explain 
the nature of its contents, extended remarks at this 
point are therefore unnecessary. I am well aware 
that many persons have formed the erroneous idea 
that a small book cannot be worth as much as a large 
one. They seem to have overlooked the simple, but 
very important fact, that genuine value consists in 
merit, and not in bulk. In these pages briefness has 
been kept strictly in view, in order to give as much 
information as possible in a small compass, and at 
the same time retain all the advantages of a good plain 
type, and avoiding the necessity of extending the work 
to a large volume. 

Various subjects have been introduced to make the 
book more valuable and interesting to all classes, 
trades and professions ; but probably no particular 
class will be so much benefitted, as farmers or own- 
ers of horses. The system of horse training, as taught 
in this work, will supersede all others, in as much as 
it is the best and only true system. Never before, 
has there been such a vast amount of valuable infor 
mation in reference to this noble animal, concentrated 
and published in any one volume. 

Everything of a light or objectionable character has 
been avoided, with the view to render the book inter 
esting, instructive, and every way worthy the appro- 
bation and patronage of the community at large. 

THE AUTHOR. 



[To Purchasers. — Persons buying this work have every right to use, 
but no right to teach or transfer to others, the book or its content* 
By so doing they will lay themselves liable to prosecution.] 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 



New York, its Advantages and Disadvantages. 



About two hundred and fifty-seven years ago, (September 
12th, 1609,) Manhattan Island, on which the city of New 
York is built, was discovered by Hendric Hudson. It is 13 b 
miles long, with an average width of 1 1 miles, containing 22 
square miles, or 14,000 acres. In 1623, the first white child 
was born here ; her name was Sarah Eapelje. As late as 
1626, seventeen years after its discovery, the Island was 
bought for $24.00 by Peter Minuets, the first Dutch Gover- 
nor. 

New York can now justly boast of being the great Metrop- 
olis of the United States. It is the grand centre of the vari- 
ous established lines of railroads, about one hundred of which 
converge here, making it the great starting point for various 
parts of the world. In almost every direction our eyes dis- 
cover heavily laden trains, either bringing in the golden har- 
vests of the great West, and the rich products of the far 
South, or wafting away the valuable manufactures and use- 
ful products of the East. The canvass of innumerable sail- 
ing crafts cause the surrounding rivers to wear a whitened 
surface, while far out on the great ocean thousands of ves- 
sels of all nationalities, may be seen coming and going, bear- 
ing within them the wealth and treasure from all parts of 
the Globe, to and from the great nucleus of commercial en- 
terprise and prosperity. 

Almost every kind of business is represented in New York, 
and there are but few trades unsuccessfully conducted. I do 
not wish however to convey the idea that there are great 



6 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

openings here for new adventurers in business, and since thip 
book will be read principally in the country, I would take 
this early opportunity to advise no one to come to New York 
to look for business, or seek their fortune, unless they bring 
with them sufficient means to sustain them until success 
shall crown their efforts ; and even then they should possess 
a strong mind and a firm resolution to be virtuous, honest 
and temperate ; with these qualifications, industry and per- 
severance, a person may succeed, in fact will be certain to 
succeed, as in almost any other place; but without them, 
here,' the chances are, that they will be very likely to yield 
to some of the various temptations to vice, which infest this 
great but wicked city, in which case they will gradually go 
from bad to worse, until finally, in poverty and disgrace, they 
will be found subsisting on charity. 

New York now has a population of about 1,200,000. 

We have 248 publications, of which 18 are daily, 120 week- 
ly, 90 monthly and 20 quarterly ; consuming over 1,000,000 
sheets or about 100,000 pounds of paper a day. 

There are 268 miles of paved streets, averaging 33 feet 
wide, or 1139 acres. 

There are 422 miles of gas mains, and 16,591 public lamps. 

The Croton aqueduct has 1,555,654 feet, or nearly 295 
miles of pipe of all sizes. 

The Central Park extends in length from 59th to 110th 
streets, in width from 5th to 8th Av., covering 850 acres. It 
is with the exception of the French Park, Bois de Boulogne, 
the largest and most splendid park in the world. The Cro- 
ton reservoir, within its limits, occupies 106 acres and is 38 
feet deep. 

Commissioners appointed by the Legislature in 1859, re- 
valued the real and personal estate of the city at $856,964,491, 
the city's appraisement for the same year being $551,923,122. 
For 1864, the commissioners of taxes and assessments valued 
it at $410,774,435 for the real, and $223,920,505 for the per- 
sonal estate,or $634,694,940, being a net increase of $49,540,397 
over the year 1863, the tax then being about 2 per cent. For 
1865 the total is $608,784,355, being a decrease of $46,410,592 
in the personal estate, and $20,579,057 increase in the real, 
net decrease $25,831,535. The estimated value of real estate 
owned by the city is $42,917,226, the Croton aqueduct enter- 
ing for $15,470,000, and the public parks for $14,761,526. 
The work on the former cost $15,210,630. 

There are 71 Banks in New York city, 23 of which are 
Savings Banks. 



THE MONEY-MAKER S MANUAL. 7 

In Firth Avenue, and the many other fashionable locali- 
ties, people are residing in princely mansions in the enjoy- 
ment of all the luxuries that heart can wish, or wealth pro- 
cure ; while if we take a walk over to Cherry Street, we can 
there find no less than 145 families, composed of 440 adults, 
and 460 children, making a total of 900 human beings, living 
in two tenement houses, 18 by 180 feet, five stories high 
each, on an area of 36 by 180. 

We have some 400 places of worship, with an attendance 
of 250,000 people, who pay annually $550,000 to their Clergy. 
The church property is estimated at $20,000,000 and there 
are seats for about one third of the population. 

The 3000 manufacturing establishments of the city employ 
87,500 hands, and convert $70,000,000 of raw material into a 
value of $135,000,000 annually. They have $26,000,000 in- 
vested in real estate, and $12,500,000 in machinery; 

There are 25 regular ferry routes, with upwards of 70 
Steamboats, making some 2000 trips daily, transporting at 
times as many as 200,000 passengers, and 8,500 vehicles daily 
to and from the city. 



New York in its Immoral Aspect. 

All men, more or less, in large cities, overlook or forget 
they have had, or have mothers, sisters and wives, and some- 
how or other think every modest woman whom circumstan 
ces may throw in their way, a fair mark for their unscrupu- 
lous love-making. Hence the many thousands of unhappy, 
and once beautiful females who live on promiscuous inter 
course with lascivious men. These unfortunate women may 
be seen at all hours of the day in public thoroughfares, be- 
dizened with "fuss and feathers," and especially so in the 
evenings, and at the theatres. Against associating with 
these unhappy, but yet gay beauties, we would warn the in- 
experienced reader of these pages. No amatory commerce 
can be had with such, except with the risk of sacrificing all 
for which life can be alone desirable — health, character and 
self-respect. 

In the whole of the United States there are not less than 
one hundred thousand loose or women of easy virtue : four 
tenths of these are probably in New York city, nightly deal 
ing out physical death to a still greater number of inconsid 
erate men. They may not be all diseased, but it is safe to 
presume that one-third of the whole number are, and a little 



8 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

exercise in simple division would show that the seeds of illi- 
cit poison are communicated daily to over 30,000 persons, 
many of whom have wives or bed-companions, to whom they 
impart the disease with all its horrors, sufferings and death. 
By such severe folly of mankind, offspring become infected ; 
and with their ulcerated gums communicate it to the nipples 
of nurses, who have been called to supply the places of moth- 
ers in nurseries, and in turn imparting the disease to other 
innocent babes. Infection thus, like fire on the prairie, 
spreads throughout; and in time must destroy the whole 
human family. 

Our country friends — readers of these pages — will take our warn- 
ing in good part, and profit by it. 



Invaluable Recipes. 

Purgative Pills. — Simple extract of colocynth, 24 grains , 
extract of jalap, 12 grains ; blue pill, 12 grains ; ipecacuanha; 
4 grains ; oil of peppermint, 3 drops. Make into 12 pills. 
Dose, 2 to 4. 

Digestive Pills. — Rhubarb, 2 ounces ; ipecacuanha, J ounce ; 
cayenne pepper, i ounce ; soap, i ounce ; ginger, i ounce ; 
gamboge, \ ounce. Mix, and divide into 4-grain pills. 

Itch Ointment. — Olive oil, 1 lb. ; suet, 1 lb. ; alkanet root, 2 
ounces. Melt, and when sufficiently colored, strain and add 
3 ounces each of alum, nitre, and sulphate of zinc, in fine 
powder. 

Anti-Bilious Pills. — Compound extract of colocynth, 60 
grains ; rhubarb, 30 grains ; soap, 10 grains. Make into 24 
pills. Dose, 2 to 4. 

Eecipe for Fits, Fever, Ague, §c. — Take 1 gal. good, pure 
whiskey, and 1 lb. vervine. Boil well or distill. 1 table- 
spoonful is a dose for a grown person. 

To Wliiten the Rands. — Take two cakes of brown Windsor 
soap, scrape to a powder, and add Eau de Cologne, two 
ounces; lemon juice, two ounces; mix well and form into 
cakes. This is an excellent soap to make the hands soft and 
white. 

Scotfs Wash to Whiten the Nails. — Tincture of myrrh, one 
drachm ; diluted sulphuric acid, two drachms ; spring water, 
four ounces. Mix. Cleanse the nails with white soap, then 
dip into the wash. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 9 

Lozenges. — Powdered lactucarium, 2 drachms ; ex- 
tract of licorice root, 12 drachms ; powdered squills, 15 grains ; 
refined sugar, 6 ounces ; mucilage of tragacanth sufficient to 
mix. Make into 240 equal lozenges. 

Memedy for the Bite of a Mad Log. — Take immediately warm 
vinegar or tepid water, wash the wound clean therewith, 
and then dry it ; pour then upon the wound a few drops of 
muriatic acid, because mineral acids destroy the poison of 
the saliva, by which means the evil effect of the latter is 
neutralized. 

To Prevent Hydrophobia. — Elecampane, 1 drachm ; chalk, 4 
drachms ; Armenian bole, 3 drachms ; alum, 10 grains ; oil 
of anise-seed, 5 drops. 

To Clear a Boom of Mosquitoes. — Take of gum camphor a 
piece about one-third the size of an egg, and evaporate it by 
placing it in a tin vessel and holding it over a lamp or can- 
dle, taking care that it does not ignite. The smoke will soon 
fill the room and expel the mosquitoes. 

To Make Hens Lay. — If a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper is 
given to a dozen hens with their food every other day, win- 
ter and summer, the quantity of eggs they will produce will 
be nearly doubled. So says Dr. Hall. 

Hooper s Female Pills. — Sulphate of iron, 8 ounces ; water, 
8 ounces: dissolve, and add Barbadoes aloes, 40 ounces; 
myrrh, 2 ounces ; make 20 pills. Dose, 2 to 6. 

Cough Compound. — For the cure of coughs, colds, asthma, 
whooping cough, and all diseases of the lungs : One spoonful 
of common tar, 3 spoonfuls of honey, the yolk of 3 hen's 
eggs, and £ pint of wine ; beat the tar, eggs, and honey well 
together with a knife, and bottle for use. A teaspoonful 
every morning, noon, and night, before eating. 

To Pemove Pimples.— Take white wine vinegar, four ounces ; 
sulphur water, two ounces ; acetated liquor of ammonia, one- 
half ounce ; liquor of potassa, two grains ; distilled water, 
four ounces. Mix, and apply twice a day. 

Opodeldoc. — Take 2 ounces of Venetian soap ; 1 ounce gum 
camphor ; 1 pint of brandy ; dissolve the soap in the brandy 
by a slow heat, then add the camphor. 

To Prevent Scorching in an Oven. — A bowl containing two 
quarts of water, set in an oven when baking, will prevent 
pies, cakes, &c, from being scorched. 

Catarrh.— Take dry bloodroot, and reduce it to powder — 
mix it with gum camphor ; use it as snuff. It is said to be 
a certain cure. 



10 THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. 

Female Obstructions, $c. — Make a syrup of equal parts of 
heart's ease, spikenard root with the pith out, Turkey root, 
wild licorice, pond-lily root, a small part of blood-root, and a 
double proportion of an herb called female flowers. The last 
often grows by the edges of ponds, and has a leaf and blos- 
soms similar to cowslips, but grows single, one root or stalk 
by itself, and smaller than the cowslip. The blossom is yel- 
low. It is one of the finest roots for females in the world. 
Boil in fair water until the substance is extracted ; strain, 
sweeten with honey, add as much rum as will keep it from 
souring ; drink half a gill on going to bed, every night. It 
will stregthen the system and throw off all obstructions. 

Ayer's Cherry Pectoral. — Take 4 grains of acetate of mor- 
phia, 2 fluid drachms of tincture of bloodroot, 3 fluid drachms 
each of antimonial wine and wine of ipecacuanha, and three 
fluid ounces of syrup of wild cherry. Mix. 

If Poison is Swallowed. — If any poison is swallowed, drink 
instantly half a glass of cool water with a heaping teaspoon- 
ful of common salt and ground mustard stirred into it ; this 
vomits as soon as it reaches the stomach : but for fear some 
of the poison still remains, swallow the whites of one or two 
eggs, or drink a cup of strong coffee, these two being anti- 
dotes for a greater number of poisons than any other dozen 
articles known, with the advantage of being always at 
hand. 

For a Weak Back. — Take a beefs gall, pour it into 1 pint of 
alcohol, and bathe frequently. It acts like a charm. 

Br. Davies' Gout Mixture. — Wine of colchicum, one ounce ; 
spirit of nitrous ether, one ounce ; iodine of potassium, two 
scruples ; distilled water, two ounces. Mix. A teaspoonful 
in chamomile tea two or three times a day. 

To Keep Cider Sweet. — To every barrel add one and a half 
gills of mustard seeds, which will keep it sweet for one year. 

Brandreth's Pills. — Take 2 pounds of aloes, 1 pound of gam- 
boge, 4 ounces of extract of colocynth, \ a pound of castile 
soap, 2 fluid drachms of oil of peppermint, and 1 fluid drachm 
of cinnamon. Mix, and form into pills. 

In Case of Excessive Bleeding. — If the blood comes from a 
wound by jets or spirts, be spry, or the man will die in a few 
minutes, because an artery is severed ; tie a handkerchief 
loosely around near the part between the wound and the 
heart. Put a stick between the handkerchief and the skin, 
twist it around until the blood ceases to flow, and keep it 
there until the doctor arrives ; if in a position where the 
handkerchief cannot be used, press the thumb on the spot 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 11 

near the -wound, between the wound and the heart, increas 
ing the pressure until the bleeding ceases, (do not lessen the 
pressure until the physician arrives, for an instant,) so as to 
glue up the wound by coagulation or hardening of the cool- 
ing blood. 

How to Cure Cancer. — The following is said to be a sure cure 
for cancer : A piece of sticking plaster is put over the cancer, 
with a circular piece cut out of the centre, a little larger than 
the cancer, so that the cancer and a small circular rim of 
healthy skin next to it is exposed. Then a plaster, made of 
chloride of zinc, blood-root, and wheat flour, is spread on a 
piece of muslin the size of this circular opening, and applied 
to the cancer for twenty-four hours. On removing it, the 
cancer will be found burned into and appear of the color and 
hardness of an old shoe sole, and the circular rim outside of 
it will appear white and parboiled, as if scalded by hot 
steam. The wound is now dressed, and the outside rim soon 
separates, and the cancer comes out in a hard lump and the 
place heals up. The plaster kills the cancer, so that it sloughs 
like dead flesh, and never grows again. The remedy was 
discovered by Dr. Fell, of London, and had been used by him 
for six or eight years with unfailing success, and not a case 
has been known of the reappearance of the cancer when this 
remedy has been applied. 

Cancer Ointment. — White arsenic, sulphur, powdered flow- 
ers of lesser spearwort, and stinking chamomile, levigated 
together, and formed into a paste with white of egg. 

Chinese Depilatory, (to remove superfluous hair). — Crystal- 
lized hydrosulphate of soda, 3 parts ; quicklime, in powder, 
10 parts ; starch, 10 parts. Mix. To be mixed with water, 
and applied to the skin, and scraped off in 2 or 3 minutes, 
with a wooden knife. 

2. Quicklime, 16 ounces ; pearlash, 2 ounces ; reduce to 
fine powder and keep in a close bottle. Use as above. 

Perfumed Powder for Boxes and Drawers. — Coriander powder, 
Florentine orris powder, powdered rose leaves, powdered 
sweet-scented flag-root, of each 2 ounces : lavender flowers, 
powdered, 4 ounces ; musk, 1 scruple ; powder of sandle- 
wood, 1 drachm. Mix. 

How to Make Sham Champagne. — Take 1 lemon, sliced ; 1 ta- 
ble-spoonful of tartaric acid; 1 ounce of race ginger; lb 
pounds of sugar ; 2h gallons of boiling water poured on the 
above. When blood warm, add 1 gill of distillery yeast, or 
2 gills of homo-brewed. Let it stand in the sun through tho 



12 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

day. When cold, in the evening, bottle, cork, and wire it. 
In two days it is ready for use. 

How to Kill Vermin on Stock of oil Kinds. — Take 1 ounce of 
coculus indicus, which should be bought of any druggist, at 
from twelve to fifteen cents per pound, and steep it in one 
gallon of water, and apply it as is recommended for tobacco 
extract. It will be found quite as effectual, and much more 
pleasant to use. I have used it with unvarying success for 
killing lice on canary birds. Dipping them in, keeping the 
head out, and soak well. It is perfectly safe. 

How to Drive away Mice — Gather any kind of mint and 
scatter it about; and they will forsake the premises. 

Summer Beverage. — Ten drops of oil of sassafras ; 10 drops 
of oil of spruce ; 10 drops of oil of wintergreen ; 2 quarts of 
boiling water, poured on 2 great spoonsful of cream of tar- 
tar. Add 8 quarts of cold water, the oils, 3 gills of distillery 
yeast (or 6 of home-brewed), and sweeten it to the taste. In 
24 hours, bottle it, and it is a delicious beverage. 

To Clear a House of Vermin. — Common green paint, in pow- 
der, sold under the name of French green, will clear a house 
completely of roaches and vermin of every description. So 
infallible is this remedy that men offer to clear houses by 
contract, at large prices, on the principle of " no cure, no 
pay," and they never fail to succeed. Six cents worth is all 
that is required, and money can be easily and surely made 
by ridding houses of these pests. 

To Destroy Caterpillars. — Boil together a quantity of rue, 
wormwood, and any cheap tobacco (equal parts), in common 
water. The liquid should be very strong. Sprinkle it on 
the leaves and young branches every morning and evening 
during the time the fruit is ripening. 

To Destroy Cockroaches. — The following is said to be effectu- 
al : These vermin are easily destroyed, simply by cutting up 
green cucumbers at night, and placing them about where 
roaches commit depredattons. What is cut from the cucum- 
bers in preparing them for the table answers the purpose as 
well, and three applications will destroy all the roaches in 
the house. Remove the peelings in the morning, and renew 
them at night. 

To Kill Bed bugs. — An effectual lime for the destruction of 
bed-bugs may be made as follows : Two ounces of red arsen- 
ic, i of a pound of white soap, h an ounce of camphor dis- 
solved in a teaspoonful of spirits rectified, made into a paste 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 13 

of the consistency of cream. Place this mixture in the open- 
ings and cracks of the bedstead. 

Sympathetic or Secret Inks. — Mix equal quantities of sulphate 
of copper and sal ammoniac, and dissolve in water. Writing 
done with this ink is invisible until the paper is heated, when 
it turns a yellow color. Lemon juice, milk, juice of onions, 
and some other liquids, become black when the writing is 
held to the fire. 

Gold and Silver Coin Detector. — Ten grains of nitrate of sil- 
ver, and 1 ounce of water. 

New Method of Embalming. — Mix together 5 pounds dry sul- 
phate of alumine, 1 quart of warm water, and 100 grains of 
arsenious acid. Inject 3 or 4 quarts of this mixture into all 
the vessels of the human body. This applies as well to all 
animals, birds, fishes, &c. This process supersedes the old 
and revolting mode, and has been introduced into the great 
anatomical schools of Paris. 

Cough Syrup. — Put 1 quart hoarhound to 1 quart of water, 
and boil it down to a pint ; add 2 or 3 sticks of licorice and a 
tablespoonful of essence lemon. Take a tablespoonful of the 
syrup three times a day, or as often as the cough may be 
troublesome. The above receipt has been sold for $100. 
Several firms are making much money by its manufacture. 

Bengal Lights. — Take of nitrate of potassa (saltpetre,) 8 
parts ; sublimed sulphur 4 parts, and antimony 1 part, and 
let them be well mixed in powder and beat firmly into a stout 
iron cup, and set on fire ; and if a little camphor be added it 
is still more brilliant. Such lights are made use of for com-- 
municating at a great distance by sea at night. 

Cure for Sore Nipples. — Nursing mothers are sometimes se- 
riously troubled with this painful affliction, and would be 
willing to make almost any sacrifice to have a cure for it. 
The following simple mixture, will give immediate relief: 
Powdered Borax, a small, even teaspoonful ; pure water two- 
thirds of a teacupful, Alcohol one and a half tablespoonful. 
Mix and use, washing the nipples with it. 

Recipe for Cure of Cholera. — Tincture kino 1 ounce, tincture 
opii 4 drachms, amylum (common starch) 1 ounce, tepid wa- 
tei 6 ounces. Mix. Inject slowly into the bowels. The in- 
jection mixture should be of the consistency of thin gruel. 
If it should come away it must be immediately repeated. If 
the injection be properly administered and in sufficient quan- 
tity it will stop the discharge from the bowels in fifteen min- 



14 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

utes, and nothing will pass them for several days. The pa- 
tient is then safe. 

A weak mixture of chloroform, spirits camphor and tur- 
pentine may also be taken by the mouth. 

Cure for Bone Felon. — An old physician gives the following 
as an infallible remedy : As soon as the parts begin to swell, 
get the tincture of lobelia and wrap the part affected with 
cloth thoroughly saturated with the tincture, and the felon 
is dead. 

To Write Secret Letters. — Put 5 cts. worth citrate of potassa 
in a 1 ounce vial of clear cold water. This forms an invisible 
Jluid. Let it dissolve and you can use it on paper of any col- 
or. Use a goose quill in writing. When you wish the wri- 
ting to become visible, hold it to a red-hot stove. 

Wild Cherry Bitters. — Boil a pound of wild cherry bark in a 
quart of water, until reduced to a pint. Sweeten and add a 
little rum to preserve, or, if to be nsed immediately, omit the 
rum. Dose : a wineglassful three times a day, on an empty 
stomach. 

To Make Soldering Liquid. — Take I pound of muriatic acid, 
h ounce of salmoniac ; add as much sheet zinc as it will eat. 
When done, add one half soft water and strain, and it is fit 
for use. 

A Certain Cure for Drunkenness. — Sulphate of iron, 5 grains ; 
magnesia, 10 grains ; peppermint water, 11 drachms ; spirits 
of nutmeg, 1 drachm ; twice a day. This preparation acts as 
a tonic and stimulant, and so partially supplies the place of 
the accustomed liquor, and prevents that absolute physical 
and moral prostration that follows a sudden breaking off from 
the use of stimulating drinks. 

To Restore Silks Discolored by Acids. — Silks that have changed 
color by acids, can be restored by using hartshorn. Don't b8 
afraid of it on the silk. 

To Remove Dandruff from Blair. — Take a thimbleful of pow- 
dered refined borax, let it dissolve in a teacupful of water, 
firs; brush the head well, then wet a brush and apply it to 
the head. Do this every day for a week, and twice a week 
for a few times, and you will effectually remove the dand- 
ruff. 

How to Preserve Butter. — Two qts. best common salt, 1 oz. 
sugar and 1 oz. saltpetre. Take 1 oz. of this composition for 
1 lb. of butter, work it well into the mass and close it up. 

For use, the butter cured with this mixture appears of a 
rich and marrowy consistency, and never acquires a brittle 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 15 

hardn ess nor tastes salty ; but it must be remembered that 
butter thus cured, should stand 3 or 4 weeks before it is 
ap ened. The salts are not sufficiently blended with it, and 
Sometimes the coolness of the nitre will be perceived, which 
totally disappears afterwards. 

This recipe keeps butter 3 years. 

How to Make Brown's Bronchial Troches. — Take 1 pound of 
pulverized extract of licorice, 11 pounds of pulverized sugar, 
4 ounces of pulverized cubebs, 4 ounces of pulverized gum 
arabic, and 1 ounce of pulverized extract of conium. Mix. 

How to Make Lyons Celebrated Kathniron for the Hair — the Or- 
iginal Prescription of the Inventory. — Two gallons castor oil, 3 
gallons alcohol. Mix first. Ten oz. tincture cauthanile (of- 
ficural), 12 oz. oil bergamot ; dissolve in small alcohol. Tinc- 
ture red sander, — proportions say 1 lb. to 5 gal., 95 per ct. al- 
cohol — to suit 4 oz. color 30 gallons. 



Medical Herbs, Roots, &c. 

For all simple complaints, a preparation of barks or herbs, 
is to be preferred to more powerful remedies, as they are 
more harmless, and do not injure the system so much as oth- 
er prescriptions sometimes do. 

The list which we give below will be found to embrace the 
most important. For the manufacture of Bitters, a selec- 
tion may be made from the list, and boiled down to a syrup 
with sugar. A little rum may be added to preserve. 

Sassafras. — It is an aromatic or pleasant tonic. Sassafras, 
prickly ash, dogwood, and American gentian, make as pow- 
erful and pleasant a bitter as foreign gentian, Colombo, Peru- 
vian bark, cloves, and cinnamon, which we buy at the drug 
store. 

Mandrake or May Apple. — Needs no description. It is an ' 
excellent purgative, in doses from ten to thirty grains, or 
double that quantity, in a gill of water, or equal quantities 
of the mandrake j uice and molasses may oe mixed, and a ta- 
blespoonful taken every hour or two till it operates. Indians 
gather the root in autumn, when the leaves turn yellow, dry 
it in the shade, and pulverize it for use, as wanted. 

Wintergreen. — It is useful in spasmodic asthma, in urinary, 
and in female weaknesses. It relieves cramp from wind in 



16 THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. 

the stomach ; the juice boiled with sweet oil, wax and tur- 
pentine, makes a salve, which is used to heal wounds. 

Comfrey. — Boiled in milk, is excellent in dysentery, bowel 
complaints, immoderate courses, and other diseases. It is 
beneficial in all cases attended with burning heat in urinary 
evacuations. A poultice of the pounded root is good for 
wounds and inflammatory swellings. 

Tansey. — Relieves hysterical affections. A wine-glassful of 
tansy j uice will throw off an ague fit, if taken a few minutes 
before the attack. 

Wild Turnip. — Its virtues are destroyed by drying, and by 
too much pounding. To use it as a medicine it should be 
scraped, and mixed with something oily, sweet, and mucil- 
aginous. It is useful to old people, in cases of asthma, coughs, 
&c. It is good for women who are not regular, and a decoc- 
tion of the root is used for eye- water. 

Rhubarb Root. — It is generally cultivated in our gardens for 
the sake of the stalks, which are made into excellent pies ; 
the root, however, is of great efficacy in some diseases. Six 
to ten grains are astringent and strengthening to the stom- 
ach. In larger doses, from a scruple to half a drachm, it is 
first purgative, and then astringent. It is, therefore, an ex- 
cellent medicine for diarrhoea and dysentery, because it evac- 
uates any acrid matter that may be offending the bowels, be- 
fore it acts as an astringent. 

Dysentery. — In diseases of this kind, the Indians use the 
roots and leaves of the blackberry bush — a decoction of which 
in hot water, well boiled down, is taken in doses of a gill be- 
fore each meal, and before retiring to bed. It is an almost 
infallible cure. 

Burdock. — Operates gently on the bowels, sweetens the 
blood, promotes sweat and urine, and is used in rheumatic, 
scorbutic, and venereal diseases. Dose of the juice, a wine- 
glassful ; of the decoction, half a pint three times a day. 

Fever-few, Feather-few — Is an aromatic tonic. A decoction 
of the herbs, in hysterics and other female complaints, may 
be used to advantage. 

Chamomile. — A warm decoction of the flowers in large quan- 
tities will act as an emetic ; in small doses, taken cold, it is 
an excellent tonic to strengthen the stomach. 

Blue Flag. — Grows by the brink of rivers, in swamps, and 
meadows ; blossoms in July, blue flowers, variegated with 
white, yellow, and purple. A teaspoonful of the juice dilu 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 17 

ted with water, is an active cathartic, and the decoction for 
constant drink is used in venereal complaints. 

Oak of Jerusalem or Wormseed. — This is a vermifuge or an- 
thelmintic medicine, that is good to destroy worms. A ta- 
blespoonful of the juice of the plant expressed or squeezed 
out is a dose. The seed may be boiled in milk ; give a wine- 
glassful. Or one or two teaspoonfuls of the seed itself may 
be mixed with molasses or honey, and given to a child two 
or three years old, on an empty stomach, twice a day and 
continued several days. 

Ladies' Slipper. — Is well known. A decoction of the root 
is a febrif age (a remedy for fever), and a fine regulating med- 
icine in female complaints. 

American Senna. — Grows well in this country, is very easily 
raised from the seeds, and ought to be cultivated in every 
garden. It is well known as a physic for children ; a hand- 
ful of the leaves to a pint of hot water, and a teacupful or 
less every hour or two, till it operates. 

Charcoal of Wood. — In fifteen or sixteen cases of obstinate 
constipation of the bowels, Dr. Daniel, of Georgia, adminis- 
tered three tablespoonfuls of pulverized charcoal every half 
hour, and in about seventeen hours the bowels were freely 
evacuated. It is slow, but sure. A tablespoonful two or 
three times a day will remove costiveness. In smaller doses 
it corrects bad breath, and prevents putrid belching of wind 
from the stomach. It is a powerful antisepic, or anti-morti- 
fication remedy. 

Sweet Fern. — Grows in woods and stony places, flowers 
from June to October, and is well known. It is a powerful 
medicine to expel the tapeworm, in the dose of a pint a day 
of the decoction, or one or two teaspoonfuls of the powder ; 
to be followed on the fifth day by a dose of some kind of 
physic. It is also good in chronic rheumatism, and a wash 
of it is considered beneficial in St. Anthony's fire, and other 
cutaneous affections. 

Horse-Radish. — This is an anti-scorbutic and stimulating 
medicine. It may be taken either in substance or infused 
in wine, for the scurvy, dropsy, palsy, chronic rheumatism, 
&c. An infusion of horse-radish in milk is the best cosmetic 
for the ladies, and, steeped in vinegar, it removes freckles 
from the face. 

Blackberry. — The berry, when ripe, is known to be pleasant 
and wholesome, and two handfuls of the root, in three pints 
of milk or water, boiled down to a quart, in the dose of a tea- 



18 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

cupful every two or three hours, has often cured diarrhoea 
and dysentery, when the apothecary's medicine has failed. 

Dandelion. — A decoction of dandelion will correct an un- 
healthy state of the stomach and liver, and procure an appe- 
tite. It is diuretic, and very beneficial in jaundice. Given 
in the form of extract, in from three to five-grain doses, three 
times a day, and continued for a long time, has the happiest 
effect upon the liver when its disease has assumed a chronic 
form. The best way of preparing it, is to gather the roots 
in August and September, press out the juice, and evaporate 
in shallow dishes exposed to a dry, warm air. 

Gold Thread. — The root chewed is good for canker, or other 
sore mouth ; and prepared by decoction, as a gargle in sore 
throat. The tea is useful in cases of general debility, and 
loss of appetite. 

Wild Cherry — The Bark and Fruit. — The bark of the tree and 
kernels of the cherry contain a great deal of Prussic Acid, to 
which their medicinal virtues are to be attributed. The 
bark is a very powerful antiseptic, and is very useful in the 
preparation of dentifrice. It is also useful in Diarrhoea, 
Jaundice, and for worms. Generally taken in infusion, an 
ounce of the powder to a quart of boiling water. The Cher- 
ries also are used in medicine, and may be employed with, 
or without peach kernels. They are useful as a tonic and a 
remedy for indigestion, and particularly as a restorative for 
convalescents from Dysentery. Made in a syrup ; or bruised, 
and given in decoction. 

Witch Hazel. — A tea of the leaves and bark is useful to 
wash putrid sores ; and it will remove that diseased or dead 
substance known as " Proud Flesh." For this purpose a 
poultice should be made of a strong infusion ; applied to the 
sore, or it may be washed gently with the tea. 

Bed Baspberry. — This also is an astringent. A tea made of 
the leaves is an excellent remedy for the bowel complaints 
of children. A little of the Bark of Slippery Elm improves 
its efficacy. It should also be given in the form of an injec- 
tion. The tea is used as a wash and gargle ; and if drank 
freely it has a good effect in a cankerous state of the mouth, 
throat, and stomach. 

Yellow Dock Boot. — This is one of the most valuable reme- 
dies known in disease of the Skin. The best preparation is 
to bruise the fresh roots in a mortar, and add cream, or fresh 
butter, enough to make an ointment ; and it may also be 
taken internally at the same time, either in decoction or com- 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 19 

bined, with such, articles as are useful for the internal treat- 
ment of bad humors, and scrofulous conditions of the sys- 
tem. It is a certain and safe remedy for the troublesome 
disease known as the Itch. 

Golden Seal Soot. — This is an admirable remedy in case of 
dyspepsia. A half teaspoonful of the powder, with a half 
teacupful of boiling water, taken immediately after eating, 
when the food distresses one, often gives relief. It is an ar- 
ticle in the "Spiced Bitters." 

Bahnony Herb. — This is a tonic and laxative, and is em- 
ployed to good advantage in Jaundice, Dyspepsia, Diseases 
of the Liver, Loss of Appetite, and General Debility. It en- 
ters into the composition of " Spiced Bitters." 

Elder. — An infusion of Elder-flowers is good for feverish- 
ness and sore mouth in children. Add a pint of boiling wa- 
ter to a tablespoonful of the flowers. 

The inner bark with cream, fresh butter, or sweet oil, 
makes a nice cooling ointment for burns, and other inflamed 
sores. 

American Poplar Bark. — A tea made of the bark is very 
useful in cases of debility, especially those of long standing, 
and also for feeble digestion, worms, and a diseased condition 
of the urinary organs. Consumptive people have received 
great benefit from its use. It is an ingredient in the " Spiced 
Bitters" of Botanical physicians. 



Origin of the Dog. 

An impenetrable veil of mystery hangs over the origin of 
the Dog. Writers on the animal — philosophers and others 
well versed in animated nature generally, cannot agree on 
the question of the origin of the dog — they cannot determine 
whether that animal was an original work of the Creator, or 
whether he has been produced by intermixture of animals of 
the Hyena and Fox species. Doubt on this subject will 
probably never be removed, till time shall be no more, when 
we shall become acquainted with this amongst other and for 
the present abstruse and dark mysteries of animated nature. 

The well known Jewish author, Josephus, Chapter 6, 
Book 9, has an interesting passage in reference to dogs in the 
following words : •' When Jehu came to his palace with his 
friends, he bade his servants to take up Jezebel, [who had 



20 THE MONEY-MAKEk's MANUAL. 

been thrown from a tower and killed,] "but those who were 
so appointed to bury her, found nothing else remaining but 
the extreme parts of her body, for all the rest were eaten by 
dogs." 

We are told in the Roman history, that once on a time the 
great city of Rome was besieged by a numerous host of ene- 
mies, the dogs of the city were posted on the hills around, 
and on a certain occasion failed to give notice of the foe 
stealthily creeping up the various hills around the city. The 
city on that night would have been captured, but the geese, 
more wakeful than the dogs, began to cackle, the garrison were 
alarmed and the enemy repelled. 

It is quite evident from these few allusions to the dog, that 
the animal was well known by the ancients. 

We have an allusion, also, to dogs in Isaiah, 56 chap., ver 
ses 10, 11. 

" His watchmen are blind — they are all ignorant — they are 
all dumb dogs — they cannot bark, sleeping, lying down, loving 
to slumber. Yea, they are greedy dogs, which cannot have 
enough." 



General Treatment of the Dog. 

The breeding of dogs of peculiar excellence will meet with 
undoubted success if one or two simple directions are attend- 
ed to. 

Do not be satisfied with the appearance of either parent. 
The true or real pedigree, as far as possible, should be care- 
fully ascertained, for it not unfrequently happens that a 
whelp, apparently of high breeding, will be accidentally pro- 
duced when one parent is absolutely of a quite different 
breed — perhaps a common cur. From such stock it would 
be unsafe to breed, as the probability in such cases would be, 
that the whelp would more or less take after the bad blood — 
called throwing back. The one pedigree, therefore, should be 
ascertained for at least four generations. 

The next consideration should be the age and health of 
the parents. The male should be at least two years old — the 
female at least fifteen months. Males need not be rejected 
as unfit, until their eighth year, provided they may have 
woon — have not been hardly used, and are in good health. 
Females need not be rejected till their sixth year. 

Both parents should be in perfect health. The female goes 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 21 

with young sixty-three days ; she has from four to thirteen 
young at a birth. The whelps are born blind ; their eyes 
open the eleventh or twelfth day. The dam should not be 
permitted to breed oftener than three times in two years, nor 
to rear more than five pups ; if delicate, she must not rear so 
many. If the whelps are very valuable, you can readily pro- 
cure a foster-nurse, who, without difficulty, can be induced 
to adopt as many whelps as you may find it necessary to re- 
move from the dam. The whelps should not be suckled 
longer than six weeks ; five, or even four, is sufficiently long, 
if necessity calls for their removal so soon ; the only differ- 
ence being, that, in such cases, they require more care. 

Rabies, or Canine Madness, sometimes Improperly Called Hydro- 
phobia. — Hydrophobia, a term expressing fear of water, is when 
applied to this malady as occurring in the dog, grossly in- 
correct, a dog laboring under rabies drinking water not only 
willingly, but greedily to the very last. 

We need scarcely say that no curative treatment will 
avail, if a dog is seized with this terrible disease ; our duty, 
therefore, merely consists in describing the symptoms which 
indicate the approach of danger, that the affected animal 
may be timely destroyed ; and also to point out the treat- 
ment to be pursued in the event of a fellow-creature having 
been bitten. One of the earliest symptoms of rabies in the 
dog is restlessness. He is constantly turning round and round 
before he will lie down ; his countenance becomes anxious ; 
his eyes bloodshot ; he fancies that he sees objects around 
him which have no real existence, and he snaps at the. empty 
air ; his fondness for his master increases, and with it his 
propensity to lick the hands and face — a filthy practice at any 
time, and one most dangerous ; — the appetite becomes 
depraved, his natural food is neglected, and, at the same 
time, every sort of filthy trash is greedily devoured ; eating 
his own excrement is an early symptom, and so sure a one, that 
the moment a dog is seen doing so he should be destroyed, 
or, at all events, carefully confined. 



The True Way of Breaking Horses. 

The first and most important thing to be accomplished is 
to win the horse's confidence, which may be done by uni- 
form actions of a kindly disposition in his management. 
He takes men exactly for what he proves himself by actions. 
By kind treatment, he learns to associate with man's feeling 



22 the money-maker's manual. 

of protection and security, and he can have no fear or doubt, 
because never taught to doubt by deception. 

The child has confidence in his parents in proportion to 
the fidelity of the parents in inculcating and practising 
those principles of truth in his early training. But once 
finding them unmindful of their promises, confidence in them 
is correspondently impaired. If you are faithful in fulfiling 
your promises to the child, he will expect exactly what you 
promise. Here proof becomes faith, because he has never 
been deceived by the want of performance. Even among 
men the principle is the same. That man, who is always 
found truthful, and who performs exactly as he promises to 
do, becomes a standand of public confidence and trust ; but 
he who disregards truth and the principles of honor, 
becomes an object of suspicion to all knowing him. As the 
child, then, is the reflex of the love and truth of the parents 
in confidence, and the public in him of undoubted integrity 
— so we are forced to believe the horse becomes in the char- 
acter of his habits what he is, in exact proportion to the 
teaching and example to which he may have been subject. 

HOW TO FEED, WATER AND DRIVE HORSES. 

Do not feed or water heavy before driving, filling the stom- 
ach with water and food ; water destroys the juices of the 
stomach, weakening digestion. The grain becomes swollen 
and generates a gas, filling the stomach with wind ; the 
stomach becoming diseased, the bot will work his head into 
the coating of the stomach. All grain will digest best while 
the horse is standing still ; and all food that passes off with- 
out digestion weakens the action of the stomach and bowels, 
and, in many cases, will scour the horse. The less you feed 
before driving the better. Then, again, you should water 
very little on the road. Feed mostly at night ; food will then 
all digest and make flesh and blood. I should advise not 
ixxore than two quarts in the morning, and the same at noon. 
1 do not feed in the morning, neither do I water. If I was 
going to make a long and fast drive, I should feed twelve 
quarts the night before, then my horse would be strong, and 
fed light and active, and do his work easy. By giving him 
a iHtle water, the horse will fully digest what he has eaten ; 
if you weaken the juices, of course you weaken digestion. A 
ho^se should only be fed what he can easily digest. I think 
by ^ doing you will save one third of the grain formerly giv- 
en. Diseases are caused by too much food and water ; the 
water destroys the juices, and disables digestion ; by feeding 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 23 

most of the grain whilst the horse is at rest, it will fully di- 
gest, and leave the horse strong and able to do his work 

Giving a great amount of water, diseases the blood and 
deadens the hair. The water must pass in some way; it 
can't all pass in the urine, and it passes off through the pores 
of the skin, and causes the hair to become gummed, and 
makes the horse very hard to clean. So much water passing 
off through the pores of the flesh destroys the roots of the 
hair, and causes it to look dull and faded ; then, again, you 
should be cautious not to drive your horse in cold water, 
when warm, or throw water on him ; so doing, chills the 
blood, separates the blood from the watery substances that 
the blood forms from, and causes disease, the skin will be- 
come full of small tumors and the hair fall off. By avoiding 
too much water on the road, and too much food before dri- 
ving, and by keeping the horse warm after driving, you avoid 
disease. 

SPECIAL ADVICE IN REFERENCE TO THE FEEDING OF 
HORSES. 

Never give a horse whole grain. Bruising and wetting it 
with soft water, you save thirty per cent, of its nutricious 
effects. Steam it in preference to wetting, if you have facil- 
ities for doing so. Feed your horse two hours before he 
begins his day's work. Give him the largest feed at 
night. Never tie him to a rack ; it is cruel to thus prevent 
a horse from lying down when he is tired. The best way is 
to take away your rack altogether, and arrange your stable 
so as to make it unnecessary to tie up the horse. The stable 
should alway be dry and well littered. Never give your 
horse hard water, if soft water is to be had. If you cannot 
get soft water, draw the hard water out of the well two 
hours before you let him drink it. Beans should be full a 
year old before they are fit to feed horses ; they should be 
bruised, the same as grain, not ground. 

HORSE FEED MIXTURE 

Youatt recommends for horse feed, the following mix- 
ture : Cut hay, two parts ; cut straw, three parts — add to 
this a quantity of bruised beans, oats, or other grain — we* 
the whole with soft water, and mix it well. Do not feed 
your horse too much hay, as it is not only a waste of proven 
der, but when he is put to work with an overloaded stomach 
it endangers his wind. If left to pull hay out of the rack a* 
pleasure, a horse will eat or waste some thirty pounds a 
day, whereas, by cutting up his hay and mixing it with oth- 



24 the money-maker's manual. 

er feed, as above described, ten pounds is an ample abun- 
dance for twenty-four hours. Horses, wben worked, should 
be fed three or four times a day with a mixture of hay, straw, 
and grain, as above described. Give them their food in the 
manger, be careful that it is sweet and clean. By following 
these rules, horses will always be in good condition — will 
not have that swelled belly so peculiar to animals who are 
allowed to fill their stomachs with hay — and will usually en- 
joy good health. 

HOW TO GET A COLT FROM PASTURE. 

Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, 
at such distance as not to cause them to scare or run. Then 
approach very slowly ; if they stick up their heads and seem 
to be frightened, hold on till they become quiet, so as not to 
run them before you are close enough to drive them in the 
direction you want them to go. When you begin to drive, 
do not flourish your arms or halloo, but gently follow them 
off, leaving the direction free you wish them to take. Thus 
taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get 
them in the pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails 
into his net. For if they have always run in the pasture un- 
cared for, (as many horses do in prairie countries and on large 
plantations,) there is no reason why they should not be as 
wild as the sportsman's birds, and require the same gentle 
treatment, if you want to get them without trouble ; for the 
horse, in his natural state, is as wild as any of the undomes- 
ticated animals, though more easily tamed than most of 
them. 

HOW TO STABLE A COLT. 

The next step will be to get the horse into a stable or shed. 
This should be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite 
any suspicion in the horse of any danger befalling him. The 
best way to do this, is to lead a broken horse into the stable 
first and. hitch him, then quietly walk around the colt and 
let him go in of his own accord. Be extremely deliberate 
and slow in your movements, for one wrong move may 
frighten your horse, and make him think it necessary to es- 
cape at all hazards for the safety of his life — and thus make 
two hours' work of a ten minutes' job ; and this would be all 
your own fault, and entirely unnecessary — for he will not 
run unless you run after him, nor will he try to break away 
unless you attempt to force him into measures. If he does 
not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in, 
do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 25 

room outside, by gently closing in around him. Do not raise 
your arms, but let tliem bang at your side, for you migbt as 
well raise a club : the borse has never studied anatomy, and 
does not know but tbey will unhinge themselves and fly at 
him. If he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do 
not run ; and if he gets past you, encircle him again in the 
same quiet manner, and he will soon find that you are not 
going to hurt him ; and then you can walk so close around 
him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get 
farther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet 
horse and shut the door. This will be his first notion of con- 
finement — not knowing how he got into such a place, nor 
how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly as pos- 
sible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, 
or anything that would annoy him. Then give him a few 
ears of corn, and let him remain alone fifteen or twenty min- 
utes, until he has examined his apartment, and has become 
reconciled to his confinement. And now, while your horse 
is eating those few ears of corn, see that your halter is ready 
and all right, and reflect upon the best mode of operations ; 
for in horse-breaking, it is highly important that you should 
be governed by some system. 

OBJECTS OF FEAB. — HOW TO PREVENT FEAB IN A HORSE. 

Whatever the horse understands to be harmless he does 
not fear ; consequently great pains should be taken to cause 
him to examine and smell such things as are likely to 
frighten him in after life. This should be attended to in 
his early education, since early impressions are strong in the 
horse. A log or stump by the roadside, if regarded with 
suspicion, should be approached slowly and cautiously ; to 
the imagination of the horse such things are supposed to 
be some great beast that may spring upon him, but which 
he will soon comprehend to be harmless if obliged to exam- 
ine its nature in his own way, by advancing to the object 
quietly and allowing him to understand it fully by smelling 
and breathing with the nose. The boy frightened by a 
false face, will care nothing about it after he takes it in his 
hands and examines it ; and the principle is the same in 
familiarizing horses to objects of fear. 

If your horse is frightened at an umbrella, you can soon 
learn him to be used to that. Go into the stable with him, 
and first let him look at the umbrella before it is opened — 
let him touch it with his nose. Open it a little way, and 
then let him see it, and finally open it wide. By ordinary 
patience you can soon learn the horse to have the umbrella 



26 the money-maker's manual. 

opened suddenly in his face, without his being afraid of it. 
By a similar treatment you can break any horse from scaring 
at almost anything that may look frightful to him. If you 
wish to make a trial of this theory, just take a horse into the 
stable, and let him examine the frightful object a few min- 
utes, after his mode of examining things, and you will be 
perfectly satisfied. There is a singular fact connected with 
taming the horse that I would have never believed if I had 
not tried it. If you accustom him to any particular object 
by showing it to him on one side, only, he will not be afraid 
when he sees it with the eye on that side, but he will be 
afraid if you approach him with it on the other side. It is 
therefore necessary to pacify him on both sides in all cases. 
After you have accustomed him to the umbrella, or whatever 
you may wish to make him familiar with, on his right side, 
repeat the operation on the left side in the same manner as 
if you had not approached him at all. 

THE KIND OP HALTER TO BE USED, AND HOW TO PUT 
IT ON THE COLT. 

Never use a rope halter. The cords of the rope are hard, 
and appear to aggravate and excite distrust rather than con- 
fidence ; but by all means procure a leather halter made of 
bridle leather, so it will feel soft and pliable to the touch, 
and to fit tolerably tight on the head, as not to feel uncom- 
fortable. Before putting a halter upon the colt, he must be 
rendered familiar with it by caressing him and permitting 
him to examine the article with his nose. Then place a por- 
tion of it over his head, occasionally giving it a slight pull, 
and in a few minutes he will be accustomed to these liber- 
ties, and then the halter may be fastened on properly. To 
teach him to lead is another difficulty. Stand a little on 
one side, rub his nose and forehead, take hold of the strap 
and pull gently, and at the same time touch him very light- 
ly with the end of a long whip across his hind legs. This 
will make him start and advance a few steps. Repeat the 
operation several times, and he will soon learn to follow you 
by simply pulling the halter. The mouth of the colt should 
be frequently handled, after which introduce a plain snaffle 
between his teeth and hold it there with one hand while you 
caress him with the other. After a time he will allow the 
bridle to be placed upon him. The saddle can then be 
brought in and rubbed against his nose, his neck and his 
le^s ; next hang the stirrup strap across his back, and grad- 
ually insinuate the saddle into its place. The girth should 
noi be fastened until lie becomes thoroughly acquainted with 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 27 

the saddle. The first time the girth is buckled it should . be 
done so loosely as not to attract his attention ; subsequently 
it can be tightened without inspiring him with fear, which 
if fastened immediately it would most certainly do. In this 
manner the wildest colt can be effectually subjugated by 
such imperceptible degrees that he gives tacit obedience be- 
fore he is aware of his altered condition. 

TO BREAK A HOUSE TO HARNESS. 

Take him in a tight stable, take the harness and go 
through the same process as you would with the saddle, un- 
til you get him familiar with them, so you can put them on 
his back and rattle them about without his caring for them. 
As soon as he will bear them, put on the lines, caress him as 
you draw them over him, and drive him about in the stable 
till he will bear them over his hips. The lines are a great 
aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much 
as if you were to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is 
familiar with the harness and lines, take him out and put 
him by the side of a gentle horse, and go through the same 
process that you did with the blinds when you are break- 
ing a horse to harness. 

After fixing the lines, then hitch the horse to a small log 
that he can draw very easy, with long traces, frequently 
turning him, so that the traces will draw lightly against his 
legs — frequently stopping and petting him ; then hitch him 
to something heavier ; then get behind him and drive him. 
By thus working with him you will make a strictly true 
horse of him — he also gets so that he is not afraid of the 
traces or harness. You can then proceed to hitch him to a 
buggy or waggon. Persons should not drive fast at first 
hitching a colt in harness ; he should be handled very care- 
ful at first. In handling colts in this way you will have no 
trouble with them, but will have a much better broke horse, 
and one that would be more safe for a family. A horse 
broken in this way is not half so easily spoiled as one broken 
by any other process. 

In breaking horses to ride they should be handled in very 
much the same way as I have spoken of. After bitting them 
sufficiently you may proceed to saddle them ; then ride then 
over two or three miles at a time — not enough to tire them. 

TO BREAK HORSES TO STAND THE FIRE OP A GUN. 

You commence by administering the three articles first 
mentioned, in the nostrils ■ this will prevent him from smell- 
ing the powder. Then inad your cistoi —but very light, so 



28 the money-maker's manual. 

as to make the report as light as possible ; every time you 
fire, give him a small piece of an apple, with some powder 
on it : then rub and pat him on the head and neck. When 
you first commence firing, stand close to the horse's shoul- 
ders, rest your arms on his withers. After you have fired a 
sufficient number of times, mount the horse and shoot from 
his back. Keeping up this practice for a short time, the horse 
will get so that he will not care anything about the fire of a 
gun at any time or place. 

NECESSITY OF REPETITION OF LESSONS AND A THOROUGH 
TRAINING. 

The horse must be convinced by repeated proofs of being 
over-matched that resistance is useless. For since his wil- 
lingness and rebellion are each based upon the limited reas- 
oning of his experience, he must be thoroughly convinced by 
experience that unconditional submission is the only alterna- 
tive ; tliis you cannot prove to the understanding of the horse 
without repeating your lessons until he submits uncondition- 
ally. But as nursing and care is to the patient over the force 
of disease, so is the subjugation of the horse—his submission 
should be encouraged and rewarded by kindness, and feeding 
from the hand with little presents of such things as he likes. 
That master is supreme in his control, and submission to his 
commands becomes a pleasure, who has the power to enforce 
his will, but who exercises it with the sweetening encour- 
agement of love. While force is necessary, and you have the 
means of making your horse almost a plaything in your 
hands, let the silken chord of love be the cement that fixes 
and secures this submission to your will. A good-natured, 
clever man, it is admitted, can teach a horse almost any- 
thing, and it has become a proverb that kindness will lead 
an elephant by a hair. Show your horse exactly what you 
want him to do, and endeavor to use the patience and reason 
in teaching and controlling him, you would believe necessary 
for yourself to understand if placed in like circumstances. 
Ignorant of the language and intentions of such a teacher, 
who even preserved his patience, and refrained from abuse, 
what progress would you make as a pupil — gifted as you are 
with all your intelligence ? If possible, ennoble and elevate 
your feelings by realizing your responsibility to yourself, 
to the community, and to the noble animal committed to 
your charge. Make your horse a friend by kindness and 
good treatment. Be a kind master, and not a tyrant — 
make your horse a willing servant, and not a slave. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 29 

HOW TO PROCEED WITH THE COLT AFTER HALTERING. 

The first time you halter a colt you should stand on the 
left side, pretty well back to his shoulder, taking hold of that 
part of the halter that goes around his neck, then with your 
two hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and 
raise the halter on it without making him dodge, by putting 
your hands about his nose. You should have a long rope or 
strap ready, and as soon as you have the halter on attach 
this to it, so that you can let him walk the length of the 
stable without letting go the strap, or without making him 
pull on the halter ; for if you only let him feel the weight of 
your hand on the halter, and give him more rope when ho 
runs from you, he will never rear, pull or throw himself, yet 
you will be holding him all the time, and doing more 
towards gentling him than if you had the power to snub him 
right up, and hold him to one spot ; because he knows noth- 
ing about his strength, and if you don't do anything to make 
him pull, he will never know what he can do in that way. 
In a few minutes you can begin to control him with the hal- 
ter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the 
horse by taking up the strap "in your hand. As soon as ho 
will allow you to hold him by a toleraly short strap, and to 
step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give 
him some idea about leading. 

But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull him 
after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one 
side. He has nothing to brace either side of his neck, and 
will soon yield to a steady, gradual pull of the halter ; as 
soon as you have pulled him a step or two to one side, step 
up and caress him, and then pull him again, repeating this 
operation until you can pull him in every direction, and walk 
about tho stable with him ; this you can do in a few minutes, 
for he will soon think when you have made him step to the 
right or left a few times, that he is compelled to follow the 
pull of the halter, not knowing that he has the power to re- 
sist your pulling ; besides, you have handled him so gently 
that he is not afraid of you, but rather likes you. After you 
have given him a few lessons of this kind, at proper inter- 
vals, he will be so tame that if you turn him out to pasture 
he will come up to you to be caressed every opportuuity ho 
gets. 

While training him in the stable, you should lead him 
about some time before you take him out, opening the door, 
so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back again, 
and then past it. See that there is nothing on the outside 



SO THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL.. 

to make him jump when you take him out, and as you go 
out with him, try to make him go very slowly, catching hold 
of the halter close to the jaw with your left hand, while the 
right is resting on the top of his neck, holding to his inane. 
Do not allow anyone to be present or in sight, during your 
operations, either in or outside the stable. If you are entire- 
ly alone, and manage your colt rightly, you will soon be able 
to lead and hold him as easily as you could a horse already 
broken. 

DO NOT TRY TO FORCE THE COLT IF EXCITED. 

When excited the colt is not in a condition to understand 
what you require of him, or to be submissive. You should 
also be careful not to train the colt until he becomes heated 
and confused. But little should be required at a time, and 
hold to that point until you gain it thoroughly before you 
undertake to do more. For example : in making a colt follow, 
if he submits ever so little, caress and reward him for it, and 
so continue and you will have no trouble. 

When you resort to force do it sharply, so as to impress 
him as much as possible with your power. 

HOW TO PROCEED IF A COLT IS STUBBORN. 
If the animal you are operating upon seems to be a stub- 
born- or mulish disposition rather than wild ; if he lay back 
his ears as you approach him, or turn his heel to kick you, he 
has not that regard or fear of man that he should have, to 
enable you to handle him quickly and easily ; and it might 
do well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about 
the legs, pretty close to the body. It will crack keen as it 
plies about the legs, and the crack of the whip will affect 
him as much as the stroke ; besides, one sharp cut about the 
legs will affect him more than two or three over the back, 
the skin on the inner part of the legs or about his flanks be- 
ing thinner, and more tender than on his back. Do not whip 
him much, only just enough to scare him; it is not to hurt 
the horse that we whip him ; we do it to scare bad disposi 
tion out of him. But whatever you do, do quickly, sharply 
and with a good deal of fire, but always without anger. If 
you go to scare him at all, you must do it at once. Never go 
into a pitched battle with your horse, and whip him until he 
is mad, and will fight you : you had better not touch him at 
all, for you will establish, instead of fear and regard, feelings 
of resentment, hatred, and ill-will. It will do him no good, 
but harm, to strike him, unless you frighten him ; if you 
succeed in frightening him, you can whip him without making 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 31 

Lrim mad ; for fear and anger never exist together in the horse, 
and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has 
disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him, so that he 
will stand up straight and pay some attention to you, approach 
him again and caress him a good deal more than you whip 
ped him ; thus you will excite the two controlling passions Oi 
his nature, love and fear ; he will love, and fear you too ; and 
as soon as he learns what you require, he will obey quickly. 
If the colt is of too mulish a disposition to yield to careful 
and gentle treatment, as here given, you must resort to the 
several measures recommended for taming vicious horses. 

TO MAKE A COLT FOLLOW UNDER THE WHIP. 

After the colt comes around to you readily by pulling 
a little on the halter, and follows freely, take your whip in 
the right hand ; pull upon the halter a little, saying : " Come 
here, Sir !" And at the same time tap lightly with the whip 
over the hips ; he will come to you mainly because you have 
taught him to yield to a slight pull upon the head, and will 
come to you at this signal, and because he wishes to get away 
from the touch of the whip behind. As soon as he comes to 
you, caress him and feed him from the hand with something 
he likes ; repeat this, each time pulling upon the halter, until 
he will come to you as readily by tapping with the whip as 
he did at first to the halter. Now, instead of hitting with 
the whip, commence by snapping it behind him ; if he comes, 
caress and encourage as before, and so repeat, at each time in- 
creasing the distance from him, until he will follow or come 
to you qtiickly by cracking the whip. 

A few lessons of the foregoing kind will make him run after 
you, when he sees the motion of the whip — in twenty or thir- 
ty minutes he will follow you around the stable. After you 
have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him 
in a small lot and train him ; and from thence you can take 
him into the road, and make him follow you anywhere, and 
run after you. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE STAND STILL WITHOUT HITCHING. 

After you have well broken him to follow you, stand him 
in the centre of the stable — begin at the head to caress him, 
and gradually work backwards. If he moves, give him a 
cut with the whip, and put him back to the same spot 
from where he started. If he stands, caress him as before, 
and continue gentling him in this way until you can get 
around him without making him move. Keep walking 
round him, increasing your pace, and only touch him occa- 



3*2 the money-maker's manual. 

sionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around, and if he 
then moves, give him another cut with the whip and put. 
him back to his place. If he stands, go to him frequently 
and caress him, and then walk round him again. Do not 
keep him in one position too long at a time, but make him 
come to you occasionally, and follow you around the stable. 
Then stand him in another place, and proceed as before. 
You should not train him more than an hour at a time. 

HOW TO LEAD A COLT WITH A BROKE HORSE. 

If you should want to lead your colt by the side of anoth- 
er horse, you must first put the horse into a stable with the 
colt. You first attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and 
lead your horse up alongside of him. Then get on the 
broke horse and take one strap around his breast under the 
martingale, (if he has any on,) holding it on your left hand. 
This will prevent the colt from getting back too far ; besides 
you have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling 
against the horse's breast. The other strap take up in 
your right hand to prevent him from running ahead ; then 
turn him about in the stable, and if the door is wide enough 
ride out with him in that position ; if not, take the broke 
horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then 
lead the colt to the same spot and take the straps as before 
directed, one on each side of his neck, and then let some one 
start the colt out, and as. the colt comes out, turn your horse 
to the left, and you will have them right. You can manage 
any kind of a colt this way, without trouble ; for, if he tries 
to run ahead, or pull back, the two straps will bring the two 
horses facing each other, so that you can very easily follow 
up his movements without doing much holding, and as soon 
as he stops running backward, you are right with him, and 
all ready to go ahead. If he gets stubborn and does not 
want to go, yon can remove all his stubbornness by riding 
your horse against his neck, thus compelling him to turn to 
the right ; and as soon as you have turned him about a few 
times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after 
you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable 
and hitch him in such a way as not to have him pull on the 
halter. 

HOW TO LEAD A COLT INTO A STABLE. 
You should lead a broken horse into the stable first, and 
get the colt, if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuse 
to go, step up to him, taking a little stick or switch in your 
right hand ; then take hold of the halter close to his head 
with your left hand, at the same time, reaching over his 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. S3 

back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the op- 
posite side with your switch ; bring him up facing the door, 
tap him slightly with your switch, reaching as far back with 
it as you can. This tapping, by being pretty well back, and 
on the opposite side, will drive him ahead, and keep him 
close to you ; then by giving him the right direction with 
your left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I 
have walked colts into the stable this way in less than a 
minute, after men had worked at them half-an-hour, trying 
to pull them in. If you cannot walk him in at once in this 
way, turn him about and walk him around awhile until you 
can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then 
let him stand a few minutes, keeping his head in the right 
direction with the halter, and he will soon walk in of his 
own accord. Never attempt to pull the colt into the stable ; 
that would make him think at once that it was a dangerous 
place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then. 
Besides, we do not want him to know anything about pulling 
on the halter. If you want to tie up your colt, put him in a 
tolerably wide stall, which should not be too long, and should 
be connected by a bar or something of that kind to the par- 
tition behind it ; so that, after the colt is in he cannot go far 
enough back to take a straight, backward pull on the halter ; 
then by tying him in the centre of the stall, it would be im- 
possible for liim to pull on the halter, the partition behind 
preventing him from going back, and the halter in the centre 
checking him every time lie turn to the right or left. In a 
stall of this kind you can break any horse to stand tied with 
a light strap, anywhere, without his ever knowing anything 
about pulling. For if you have broken your horse to lead, 
and have taught him the use of the halter (which you should 
always do before you hitch him to anything), you can hitch 
him in any kind of a stall, and if you give him something to 
eat to keep him up to his place for a few minutes at first, 
there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his halter, or 
ever attempt to do so. 

This is an important feature in breaking the colt, for if he 
is allowed to pull on the halter at all, and particularly if he 
finds out that he can break the halter, he will never be safe. 
» 



Tlie Eureka Bridle. 

The most powerful means of learning a colt to lead is by 
the use of what is designated or called the Eureka Bridle. 



34 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

HOW TO MAKE THE ETJUEKA BRIDLE. 

Take a cotton cord made of fine yarn such as is sometimea 
used for a bed cord or clothes line, usualty about three 
eighths of an inch thick. If you cannot get cotton cord 
hemp or anything of the kind that is strong enough will 
answer the purpose. Let it be about fifteen feet long, tie 
one end into a hard knot, just as you would to prevent its 
raveling ; tie another knot about ten inches or a little moro 
from the one on the end, but before you draw it tight, put 
the knot on the end through. You have now a loop that 
will not slip, made on the same principle that a rope is tied 
around the neck of a horse to hitch with, so as not to tighten 
upon the neck by pulling upon it. This loop should be just 
large enough to slip over the under jaw of the horse you 
wish to train ; put this loop over the lower jaw, then, while 
standing on the near side, take the cord in the left hand and 
bring over the neck by passing the left hand under the neck 
to the opposite side towards the mane, bring the right hand 
over the neck and take the cord from the left and pass 
back to the loop, and put through from the Lop side, until 
the part over the neck is drawn down like a check-rein ; now 
take hold of the end of the rein, and you will find you have a 
means of power in it that makes the strongest horse almost a 
plaything in your hands. 

The objection to the use of the Eureka Bridle in the train- 
ing of the innocent colt, is, that the ignorant are inconsider- 
ate in its use. Instead of using it with the utmost mildness 
a little resistance on the part of the colt is made an excuse to 
use it in the most severe manner, until the colt either sub- 
mits unconditionally, or becomes so desperate with pain as to 
be entirely reckless and regardless of the utmost efforts. 

When your horse resists too much you will always find it 
to your advantage to put him away for a short time until he 
becomes cool. In fact, the great secret of training is in not 
training too long, and repeating. If you intend using the 
Eureka Bridle as a means of subduing your colt, put it on af- 
ter you tamper him on three legs, with the strap over the back. 
As soon as he submits cleverly to this step, instead of fasten- 
ing up the leg as by the method already described, take off 
your strap. Then put on the Eureka Bridle gently, when 
step to one side and back, and say, " Come here, sir !" pulling 
a very little upon the bridle, just enough to bring his head 
towards you a little. Now step up to him and pat him on 
the neck, and say, "You are a fine fellow." Then try again 
-In the same way, and so repeat until he will come to you 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 85 

quite freely. You may increase your force upon the bridle 
in proportion to Ms submission, but not if he show stubborn- 
ness. You may then step to the other side and repeat the 
lesson until he will come to you either way cheerfully. Now 
you wish him to follow you : continue your training in this 
way, gradually pulling a little more on a line with his body, 
until he will follow as well ahead as he does sideways. 

HOW TO BREAK HORSES TO RIDE. 

If a colt, you must first supple the muscles of the back be- 
fore permitting much weight to be carried. You must keep 
in mind that he is not accustomed to carry weight, and that 
to put one hundred and fifty pounds on would be entirely 
wrong. You must give the colt to understand that you are 
his friend. It will require but a few days to supple the mus- 
cles of the neck and back ; then you have a horse that will 
guide easily. After the first three days, the horse will carry 
one hundred and twenty-five pound easier than at first he 
would carry forty. 

You will now fasten the saddle on. but not toD far for- 
ward ; buckle the girths tight, and let him remain a few 
moments ; then approach him gently, pat him on the neck, 
and draw up the reins tight, with the left hand to the with- 
ers ; put the foot in the stirrup, and bear gently on the sad- 
dle, then pat him gently on the back and rump, speaking 
very low during the time. Then rise gently, throwing the 
right leg over the saddle, and sit perfectly still for a few mo- 
ments ; then dismount and caress him, patting his head and 
back, after doing so a few times he will be as submissive as 
a lamb. 

AS TO HANDLING THE FEET OF A HORSE. 

Should the colt refuse to have his feet handled, he may be 
made to submit by reproving with the bridle and putting a 
small strap on the hind foot, then pull on this strap and 
bring the foot up ; then at the moment he kicks, bring down 
on the mouth sharply with the bridle. In a short time he 
will submit to your control unconditionally. The same 
principle applies to the use of this under all circumstances. 
It is a means of reproof, and certainly has a powerful effect 
upon a horse. 

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO PACE. 

First take nine or ten pound of lead, divide in four parts, 
ecual to throe and fehi^o-quarter inches, by four .and a half 



36 THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. 

/ 

in size ; make two holes in each end of these leads, then 
fasten two of them together and have them padded. Then 
fasten them on the horse's legs, one on each hind leg, just 
above the ankle joint. Ride your horse briskly with those 
weights upon his ankles, at the same time pulling each rein 
of the bridle alternately. By this means you immediately 
throw him into a pace. After you have in this way trained 
him to some extent, change your leaden weights to some- 
thing lighter ; leather paddings, or something equal to it will 
answer the purpose. Let him wear those weights until he 
is perfectly trained. By adopting this plan, you will speedi- 
ly make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse. 

MANAGEMENT OP WILD HORSES. 

Cause your horse or colt to be put in a small yard, stable, 
or room. If in a stable or room, it ought to be large in order 
to give some exercise with the halter before you lead him 
out. If the horse belongs to that class which only appears 
to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into the 
stable, room, or yard where the horse is. He will naturally 
run from you, and frequently turn his head towards you ; 
but you must walk about extremely slow and softly, so that 
he can see you whenever he turns his head towards you, 
which he never fails to do in a short time — in a quarter or 
half an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without 
turning his head towards me. At the very moment he 
turns his head, hold out your left hand towards him, and 
stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, 
watching his motions, if he make any. If the horse does 
not stir for ten or fifteen minutes, advance as slowly as possi- 
ble, and without making the least noise, always holding out 
your left hand. If the horse makes the least motion when 
you advance towards him, stop and remain perfectly still 
until he is quiet. Remain a few moments in this condition, 
and then advance again in the same slow and almost imper- 
ceptible manner. If the horse then stirs again, stop with- 
out changing your position. It is very uncommon for the 
horse to stir more than once after you begin to advance ; 
yet there are some exceptions. He generally keeps his eyes 
steadfast upon you, until you get near enough to touch him 
on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise 
slowly and by degrees your hand, and let it come in contact 
with that part just above the nostrils, as possible. If the 
horse flinches (as many will), repeat with great rapidity 
these light strokes upon the forehead, going a little further 
up towards his ears by degrees, and descending- with the 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 37 

same rapidity until lie will let you handle his forehead all 
over. Now let the strokes be repeated with more force over 
all his forehead, descending by lighter strokes to each side of 
his head, until you can handle that part with equal facility. 
Then touch in the same light manner, making your hands 
and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's ears, 
coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be 
looked upon as the helm that governs all the rest. 

Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the 
neck, with the same precautions, and in the same manner ; 
observing always to augment the force of the strokes when- 
ever the horse will permit it. Perform the same on both sides 
of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without 
flinching. 

Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and 
then to the back of the horse. Every time the horse shows 
any nervousness, return immediately to the forehead, as the 
true standard, patting him with your hands, and thence rap- 
idly to where you had already arrived, always gaining ground a 
considerable distance farther on e Very time this happens. The 
head, ears, neck, and body being thus gentled, proceed from, 
the back to the root of the tail. 

This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never 
to be depended on that is skittish about the tail. Let your 
hand fall lightly and rapidly on that part next to the body a 
minute or two, and then you will begin to give it a slight 
pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same time 
you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the 
strokes as well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise 
it and handle it with the greatest ease, which commonly hap- 
pens in a quarter of an hour in most horses, in others almost 
immediately, and in some much longer. It now remains 
to handle all his legs ; from the tail come back again to the 
head — handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., 
speaking now and then to the horse. Begin by degrees 
to descend to the legs, always ascending and descending, 
gaining ground every time you descend until you get to his 
feet. 

Talk to the horse while you are thus taming him ; let him 
hear the sound of your voice, which at the beginning of the 
operation, is not quite so necessary, but which I have always 
done in making him lift up his feet. " Hold up your foot," 
you will say, at the same time lifting up his foot with your 
hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will 
hold up his foot at command. Then, proceed to the hind 
feet, and go on in the same manner ; and in a short time the 



38 the money-maker's manual. 

horse will let you lift them, and even take them up in your 
arms. 

All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism ; it is 
merely taking away the fear of the horse generally has of 
man, and familiarizing the animal with his master. As the 
horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure from this 
handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show very 
marked attachment to his keeper. 

THE KIND OP BIT TO USE AND HOW TO USE IT. 

To accustom a colt to the bit, you should use a large, 
smootli snaffle, so as not to hurt his mouth, with a bar at 
each side to prevent it from pulling through either way. 
This should be attached to the headstall of your bridle, and 
put it on your colt without any reins to it, and let him run 
loose in a large stable or shed, some time, until he becomes 
a little used to the bit, and will bear it without trying to get 
it out of his mouth. Repeat this several times, before you 
do anything more with the colt ; and as soon as he will bear 
the bit, attach a single rein to it, without any martingale. 
You should also have a halter on your colt, or a bridle made 
after 1he fashion of a halter, with a strap to if, so that you 
can hold or lead him about without pulling much on the 
bit. 

Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing 
they do to him, buckling it on as tight as they can draw it, 
to make him carry his head high, and then turn him out in 
a lot, to run half a day at a time. This is one of the very 
worst punishments they can inflict on a colt, and is very in- 
jurious to a young horse that has been used to running in 
pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in 
this way that they never got over it. 

A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you 
put on the bitting harness, and when you first bit him you 
should only rein his head up to the point where he naturally 
holds it, let that point be high or low ; he will soon learn 
that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little 
will loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him an idea 
of raising his head to loosen the bit ; and then you can draw 
the bitting a little tighter every time you put it on, and he 
will still raise his head to loosen it. By this means you 
will gradually get his head and neck in the position you 
want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful car- 
riage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his 
mouth to get sore. Horses that have their heads drawn up 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 39 

tightly, should not have the "bitting on more than fifteen 
minutes at a time. 

HOW TO MAKE A BITTING BRIDLE FOR AK UNRULY HORSE 
Take the Eureka Bridle, already described, and fix a loop 
upon the other end, just like that already used to put around 
the jaw, but big enough to go over the head and fit over the 
neck, rather tight, where the collar is worn. Now bring 
your cord forward, put through the mouth from the off side, 
and bring back on the near side and put through the loop 
around the neck. Pull upon this cord, and the head will be 
drawn back to the breast. You are now prepared to bit. 
Simply pull upon the cord a little, which will draw the head 
back slightly ; after holding for a short time, render loose ; 
then draw a little tighter, and so repeat for four or five min- 
utes. Then stop bitting and repeat at some future time tO 
you have the horse entirely under your control. 

HOW TO SADDLE A COLT. 

Any one man who has this theory, can put a saddle on the 
wildest horse that ever grew, without any help, and without 
scaring him. The first thing will be to tie each stirrup strap 
into a loose knot, to make them short and prevent the stirr- 
ups from flying about and hitting him. Then double up the 
skirts and take the saddle in your right arm, so as not to 
frighten him with it when you approach. When you get to 
him, rub him gently a few times with your hand, then raise 
the saddle very slowly, until he can see it, and smell, and feel 
it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose, and rub it very 
gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting him 
hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him ; 
each time a little further backward, and finally slip it over on 
his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than 
five minutes you can rattle it about over his back as you 
please, and pull it off and throw it on again, without his pay-, 
ing much attention to it. 

As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten 
the girth. Be careful how you do this. It often frightens 
the colt when he feels the girth binding him, and making 
the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring up the 
girth very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, just 
enough to hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then 
girth it as tight as you choose, and he will not mind it. 

You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right be- 
fore you put it on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt 
him, or feel unpleasant to his back. It should not hav^ any 



40 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

loose straps on the back part of it, to flap about and scare 
him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a switch 
in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in 
the stable a few times with your right arm over your saddle, 
taking hold of the reins on each side of his neck witJi your 
right and left hands, thus marching him about in the stable 
until you teach him the use of the bridle and can turn him 
about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle pull of the 
rein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every 
time you stop him. 

You should always be alone, and have your colt in some 
light stable or shed the first time you ride him ; the loft 
should be high so that you can sit on his back without en- 
dangering your head. You can teach him more in two 
hours' time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two 
weeks in the common way of breaking colts, out in an open 
place. If you follow my course of treatment, you need not 
run any risk, or have any trouble in riding the worst kind of 
horse. You take him a step at a time, until you get up a 
mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. 
First teach him to lead and stand hitched ; next acquaint 
him with the saddle, and the use of the bit ; and then all 
that remains is to get on him without scaring him, and you 
can ride him as well as any horse. 

HOW TO MOONT A COLT. 

First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle and 
all over, until he will stand still without holding, and is not 
afraid to see you anywhere about him. As soon as you 
have him well gentled, get a small block about one foot or 
eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of 
him, about where you want to stand and mount him ; step 
up on this, raising yourself very gently. Horses notice 
every change of position very closely, and if you were to 
step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare 
him ; but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you 
without being frightened, in a position very near the same 
as when you are on his back. As soon as he will bear this 
without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next to you, and put 
your left foot in the stirrup, and stand square over it, hold- 
ing your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to 
touch him under the fore-shoulder with the toe of your boot. 
Place your right hand on the front of the saddle, and on the 
opposite side of you, taking hold of a portion of the mane 
and reins (they hang loosely over his neck), with your eft 
hand, then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup and 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 41 

on your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight 
on the stirrup ; repeat this several times, each time raising 
yourself a little higher from the block, until he will allow you 
to raise your leg over his croup, and place yourself in the 
saddle. Another, and in some cases a better way of mount- 
ing, is to press the palm of your right hand on the off-side of 
the saddle, and as you rise lean your weight on it. By this 
means you can mount with the girths loose, or without any 
girths at all. 

There are three great advantages in having a block to 
mount from. First, a sudden change of position is very apt 
to frighten a young horse that has never been handled ; he 
will allow you to walk to him, and stand by his side without 
scaring at you, because you have gentled him to that posi- 
tion ; but if you get down on your hands and knees and 
crawl towards him, he will be very much frightened : and 
upon the same principle, he would frighten at your new posi- 
tion if you had the power to hold yourself over his back with- 
out touching him. Then the first great advantage of the 
block is to gradually gentle him to that new position in 
which he will see you when you ride him. Secondly, by the 
process of holding your weight in the stirrups, and on your 
liand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as 
not to frighten him by having him feel it all at once. And, 
in the third place, the block elevates you so that you will not 
have to make a spring in order to get on the horse's back, but 
from it you can gradually raise yourself into the saddle. 
When you take these precautions, there is no horse so wild 
but that you can mount him without making him jump. I 
have tried it on the worst horses that could be found, and have 
never failed in any case. When mounting, your horse should 
always stand without being held. A horse is never well broke 
when he has to be held with a tight rein when mounting ; and 
a colt is never so safe to mount as when you see that assurance 
of confidence, and absence of fear, which cause him to stand 
without holding. 

HOW TO RIDE A COLT. 

When you want a colt to start, do not touch him on the 
side with your heel, or do anything to frighten and make 
him jump. At once speak to him kindly, and if he does not 
start, pull him a little to the left until he does so, then let 
him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around 
in the stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, you 
can turn him about in every direction and stop him as you 
please. It will be well to get on and off a good many times 



42 the money-maker's manual. 

until he gets perfectly used to it before you take him out of 
the stable. After you have trained him in this way, which 
should not take more than two or three hours, you can ride 
him anywhere you choose without ever having him jump or 
make an effort to throw you. 

When you first take him out of the stable, be very gentle 
with him, as he will feel a little more at liberty to jump or 
run, and be easier frightened than he was while in the sta- 
ble ; but you will nevertheless find him pretty well broke, 
and will be able to manage him without trouble or danger. 

When you first mount a colt, take a little the shortest hold 
on the left rein, so that if anything frightens him, you can 
prevent him from jumping by pulling his head around to 
you. This operation of pulling a horse's head round against 
his side, will prevent him from jumping ahead, rearing up, 
or running away. If he is stubborn and will not go, you 
can make him move by pulling his head around to one side, 
when whipping him would have no effect. Turning him 
around a few times will make him dizzy, and then by letting 
him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch 
with the whip, he will go along without any trouble. 

Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him ; 
every movement of the hand should go right to the bit in the 
direction in which it is applied to the reins, without a mar- 
tingale to change the direction of the force applied. You can 
guide the colt much better without it, and teach him the use 
of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would 
prevent you from pulling his head round if he should try to 
jump. 

After your colt has been ridden until he is gentle and well 
accustomed to the bit, you may find it an advantage, if he 
carries his head too high or his nose too far out, to put mar- 
tingales on him. 

You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as 
to heat, worry, or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is 
a little fatigued ; gentle him and let him rest ; this will make 
him kind to you, and prevent him getting stubborn or mad. 

FOOT STRAP, AND HOW TO USE IT. 

Take a common strap or rope about the size of the Eureka 
Bridle. The Eureka bridle will do by untying one of the 
loops. Fasten the end untied carefully to the forward foot, 
below the fetlock. Pass the other end over the belly band 
of the harness, and carry it back on the left side to the sulky 
over the hold-back strap of the breechen, and hold as a third 
rein in your hand. You have in this strap or cord, connect- 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 43 

ed with tlie foot in this way, a means of control, with which 
you can almost as easily as if a plaything, control a horse 
while moving in the harness, and embodies one of the most 
valuable and effective means of controling a horse in har- 
ness yet demonstrated. If the horse attempts to run away, 
simply pulling upon your strap throws him instantly upon 
three legs, and he has to stop. If he attempt to run back, 
the same remedy stops him. If he attempts to kick, you 
attract his attention forward instantly, and at the same time 
make it impossible for him to kick. 

HOW TO PREVENT A HORSE RUNNING AWAY. 

Put on the foot strap, and when he attempts to run take 
up his foot, make him run, and tripping every time he will 
not stop instantly at the word "Whoa." Should he be of 
the extremely willful character, he may run on three legs. 
If you mistrust so, attach another strap to the opposite foot. 
Then make him run, and if he will not run for the taking 
up the second, which will destroy his confidence at once, 
when one strap will answer just as well. Make your lesson 
thorough, so that the horse will stop every time you call 
"whoa." 

Although we have given a powerful means of coertion 
and of impressing the horse of his inability to resist the will 
of man, still practical and thorough as are those means, they 
are but of little account if not used with prudence and judg- 
ment. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN. 

Everything we want to teach the horse must be com- 
menced in such way as to give him an idea of what we want 
him to do, and then be repeated till he learns it perfectly. 
To make a horse lie dowm, bend his left fore -leg and slip a 
loop over it, so that he cannot let it down. Then put a sur- 
cingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap 
around the other fore-leg, just above the hoof. Place the 
other end under the before-described surcingle, so as to keep 
the strap in the right direction ; take a short hold of it with 
your right hand ; stand on the left side of the horse ; grasp 
the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the strap with your 
right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to move. 
As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling wi.l ra:'se the 
other foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the 
strap tight in your hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg 
if he risas up. Hold him in this position, and turn Lie head 
towards you ; bear against his side with your shoulder, not 



44 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

hard, but with a steady, equal pressure, and in about ten 
minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down, he will 
be completely conquered, and you can handle him as you 
please. Take off the straps, and straighten out his legs ; rub 
him lightly about the face and neck with your hand the way 
the hair lies ; handle all his legs, and after he has lain ten or 
twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting him a 
short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the opera- 
tion three or four times, which will be sufficient for one les- 
son. Give him two lessons a day, and when you have given 
him four lessons, he will lie down by taking hold of one foot. 
As soon as he is well broken to lie down in this way, tap him 
on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his 
foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion 
of the stick. 

KICKING IN STALL. 

To cure a horse of this habit put on the saddle part of a 
carriage harness, and buckle on tightly. Then take a short 
strap, with a ring attached, and buckle around the forward 
foot below the fetlock. To this short strap attach another 
strap, which bring up and pass through the turret ; then re- 
turn to the foot and run through the ring in the short strap. 
Then pass over the bellyband and tie to the hind leg, below 
the fetlock. With this attachment on each side, the mo- 
ment the horse kicks he pulls his feet from under and trips 
himself upon his knees, which he will be very careful not to 
do but a few times. 

HOW TO TA^TE A HOUSE WITH VICIOUS HABITS. 

Having given full instructions relative to system of deal- 
ing with young colts, I will now proceed to detail the plan 
of operations for taming and subduing wild or vicious 
horses. The principles of this method are the same as those 
in management of colts — kindness and gentleness — but the 
practice differs. When you desire to subdue a horse that is 
very wild, or has a vicious disposition, take up one fore-foot 
and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards, and 
nearly touching his body ; then slip a loop over his knee, 
and shove it up until it comes above the pastern-joint, to 
keep it up, being careful to draw the loop together between 
the hoof and pastern-joint with a second strap of some 
kind to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming 
off. This will leave the horse standing on three legs ; you 
can now handle him as you wish, for it is utterly impossible 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 45 

for him to kick in this position. There is something in this 
operation of taking up one foot, that conquers a horse quick- 
er and better than any thing else you can do to him : and there 
is no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse, 
for by conquering one member, you conquer, to a great extent, 
the whole horse. 

You can do anything you wish with the horse in this con- 
dition, as when he becomes convinced of his incapacity to 
cope with man, he will abandon all antagonistic demonstra- 
tions, and become wDling to obey, and be generally docile. 
Operate on your horse in this manner as often as the occa- 
sion requires, and you will soon find him as gentle as his 
nature will permit him to be. By these means the most 
vicious, uneasy, unruly or fretful horse may be cured, though 
it depends upon the age and disposition of the animal how 
long it will take to make him amiable. When you first fast- 
en up a horse's foot, he will sometimes get very mad, and 
strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it 
down ; but as he cannot do that, he will soon give up. 

Conquering a horse in this manner is better than anything 
else you could do, and leaves him without any posssible dan- 
ger of hurting himself or you either ; for after you have tied 
up his foot, you can sit down and look at him until he gives 
up. When you find he is conquered, go to him, let down his 
foot, rub his leg with your hand, caress him, and let him rest 
a few minutes ; then put it up again. Repeat this a few 
times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn 
to travel on three legs, so that you can drive him some dis- 
tance. As soon as he gets a little used to this way of travel- 
ing, put on your harness and hitch him to a sulky. If he is 
the worst kicking horse that ever raised a foot, you need not 
be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one foot up ; 
for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do any 
harm. And if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness 
on, and has run away every time he has been harnessed, you 
can now hitch him to a sulky and drive him as you please. 
If he wants to run, you can let him have the lines, and the 
whip too, with perfect safety ; for he can go but a slow gait 
on three legs, and will soon be tired and ready to stop ; only 
hold him enough to guide him in the right direction, and he 
will soon be tired and willing to stop at the word. Thus you 
will effectually cure him at once of any further notion of 
running off. 

Kicking horses have always been the dread of everybody ; 
you always hear men say, when they speak about a bad 
horse, " I don't care what he does, so he don't kick." This 



46 the money-maker's manual. 

new mode is an effectual cure for that worst of all habits. 
There are plenty of ways by which you can hitch a kicking 
horse, and force him to go, though he kicks all the time ; but 
this does not have any good effect towards breaking him, for 
we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is 
behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts 
them, they only kick the harder ; and this will hurt theni 
still more and make them remember the scrape much longer, 
and make it still more difficult to persuade them to have any 
confidence in anything dragging behind them ever after. But 
by this new method you can harness them to a rattling sulky, 
plow, wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may 
be frightened at first, but cannot kick or do anything to hurt 
themselves, and will soon find that you do not intend to hurt 
them, and then they will not care anything more about it. 
You can then let down the leg and drive along gently with- 
out any further trouble. By this new process a bad kicking 
horse can be learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' 
time, 

HOW TO CURE BAD KICKERS. 

For extremely bad kickers or horses bad to shoe, the fol- 
lowing method will be found the most effectual. Put on a 
common rope or strap halter, with a hitching rope or strap 
about twice as long as the animal's body. Have around the 
body a common rope or surcingle. Then pass this rope or 
strap between the fore-legs over the surcingle, back around the 
hind feet, below the fetlocks, and forward over the surcingle 
between the legs, and tie short into the halter beneath the 
jaws. Now make the horse kick and you will find that he 
reproves himself in the most severe manner, and in a short 
time will submit unconditionally. Care should be taken 
against chafing the foot by the action of the strap or rope 
around the fetlocks. If you can attach a little strap around 
each foot with rings in them, through which run the strap or 
rope from the head instead of around the feet, horses ex- 
tremely bad to kick when handled about the feet, or to be 
shod, yield readily to this mode of treatment. Always after 
a horse has submitted he should be caressed and treated in a 
kind and gentle manner. For driving in harness, attach to 
a common halter-head-stall a strap about six feet long, over 
which put a two inch ring, then tie the end of this strap back 
into the halter. Now pass this double strap down between 
the fore-legs, so that the ring will extend just back of the 
belly-band, then buckle around each hind foot below the fet- 
locks short straps with ring attached, to these rings attach a 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 47 

rope"/which is passed through the ring upon the halter, just 
enough to enable the horse to stand naturally. In this con- 
dition it will be seen the horse has sufficient freedom to walk 
and trot, but the moment he attempts to kick, he reproves 
himself by the attachment to the head. 

HOW TO HITCH A HORSE IN A SULKY. 

Lead the horse to and around the sulky ; let him look at 
it, touch it with his nose, and stand by it until he dees not 
care for it ; then pull the shafts a little to the left, and stand 
your horse in front of the off wheel. Let some one stand 
on the right side of the horse and hold him by the bit, while 
you stand on the left side facing the sulky. This will keep 
him straight. Run your left hand back and let it rest on his 
hip, and lay hold on the shafts with your right, bringing 
them up very gently to the left hand, which still remains 
stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his 
back, and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, 
let the person on the opposite side take hold of one of them, 
and lower them very gently to the shaft bearers. Be very 
slow and deliberate about hitching ; the longer time you 
take the better, as a general thing. When you have the 
shafts placed, shake them slightly, so that he will feel them 
against each side. As soon as he will bear them without 
scaring, fasten your braces, etc., and start him along very 
slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle, 
while the other gradually works back with the lines till he 
can get behind and drive him. After you have driven him 
in this way a short distance, you can get into the sulky, and 
all will go right. It is very important to have your horse 
go gently when you first hitch him. After you have walked 
him awhile, there is not half so much danger of his scaring. 
Men do very wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him 
as soon as they have him hitched. There are too many 
things for him to comprehend all at once. The shafts, the 
lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky, all tend to 
scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by de- 
grees. If your horse is very wild, I would advise you to put 
up one foot the first time you drive him. 

HOW TO TRAIN HORSES FOR THE CHAISE. 

It will not require a very vivid imagination for those that 
use the chaise much to know that there is a great difference 
in the motion of the chaise ; and what makes the difference ? 
It is the gait of the horses ; and those who would purchase a 
good chaise horse must look for a short gaited one. A long 



48 the money-maker's manual. 

gaited horse gives an unpleasant motion to the chaise. Now, 
all horses of good action will make a good chaise horse if you 
shorten their gait. To do this, you must use a net. This net 
like a breast collar ; it must be two feet or two and a half 
must now be fastened to the collar and harness, and worn 
long, reaching to the knees ; the cords in the fringe to this 
must be about four inches apart, and on each cord there must 
be four balls of one inch and a half in diameter. 

There must be a similar net on the breaching, reaching 
around the flank and meeting the front one ; this net must 
hang below the gambrils ; then use a string of smaller balls 
on the fore feet, these to be one inch in diameter. They will 
effectually shorten the gait. You should be careful in the 
first exercise after the putting on of the net. Drive or lead 
the horse around, after the harness and net are on, before 
putting him to the chaise. After a short time, he can be 
hitched in and driven, but not fast, until his gait is confirm- 
ed. After a few days practice, you will have a fine chaise 
horse. Some of the best chaise horses have become so from 
having sore feet, which made them step short. If you will 
attend to the remarks on shoeing, and take care of the foot 
otherwise, your horses will never have contracted feet. 

TO TRAIN A HOUSE TO STAND WHEN YOU ARE GETTING INTO 
A CARRIAGE. 

There are many horses that are very gentle after starting, 
but who will not stand to let more than one get in ; they 
will then rear up and start very suddenly, and, if stopped, 
they become stubborn, and refuse to start when called on. 
People then usually punish them with the whip, or by kick- 
ing them, sometimes in the belly, which is very dangerous, 
as they have thus been ruptured. Now, with such a horse 
as this, you should commence in this way : — after he is 
hitched, caress him about the head, then take hold of the 
reins, and put your foot upon the step, and shake the car- 
riage ; if he starts, pull gradually on the reins, and, at the 
same time, speak low, " Whoa, my boy !" or something like 
it. Then approach his head, and give him a piece of apple 
caress him on the head, between the eyes, and on the nose 
and neck ; continue this kind treatment a few minutes, and 
when you get in dont you allow him to start off in a hurry — 
walk him off. After a few repetitions of this exercise he will 
be perfectly submissive. 

HALTER PULLING. 

It is a very easy matter to break up this bad habit. Put 
on the Eureka Bridle, and train the horse about until he 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 49 

will come to you readily when yon pull upon Mm a little 
sideways. Simply repeat this, gradually a little more on a 
line with his body at each repetition, until he will yield as 
readily at being pulled forward as sideways. Then tie a 
strap, or a piece of rope around the body where the harness 
saddle rests. Now lead the horse to his manger or to a post, 
run the halter strap through the ring or hole and pass back 
between the fore-legs over the strap or cord tied around the 
body, and tie to the hind leg below the fetlock. If your 
halter strap is not long enough, splice a piece to it. Your 
horse so fastened step forward to his head and make him 
pull. Of course he will go back with a rush, but the mo- 
ment he attempts going back, the halter strap pulls directly 
upon the hind leg, which not only disconcerts, but makes it 
Impossible for him to pull. The most halter pullers will not 
pull two or three times when so hitched, but success in this, 
as well as all other cases depends much on the prudence and 
good judgment used in managing the case. 

HOW TO MANAGE BALKY HORSES. 

Horses know nothing about balking until they are forced 
into it by bad management. When a horse balks in har- 
ness, it is generally from some mismanagement, excitement, 
confusion, or from not knowing how to pull, but seldom 
from any unwillingness to perform all that he understands. 
High-spirited free-gofng horses are the most subject to balk- 
ing, and only so because drivers do not properly understand 
how to manage this kind. A free horse in a team may be 
so anxious to go, that when he hears the word he will start 
with a jump, which will not move the load, but give him so 
severe a jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back and stop 
the other horse. The teamster will continue his driving 
without any cessation, and by the time he has the slow 
horse started again, he will find that the frt?e horse has 
made another jump, and again flown back. And now he 
has them badly balked, and so confused, that neither of 
them knows what is the matter, or how to start the load. 
Next will come the slashing and cracking of the whip, and 
hallooing of the driver, till something is broken, or he is 
through with his course of treatment. But what a mistake 
the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act ! 
Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse 
was willing and anxious to go, but did not know how to 
start the load. And should he whip him for that ? If so, 
he should whip again for not knowing how to talk. A man 



50 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

that wants to act with reason should not fly into a passion, 
but should always think before he strikes. It takes a 
steady pressure against the collar to move a load, and you 
cannot expect him to act with a steady, determined purpose 
while you are whipping him. There is hardly one balking 
horse in five hundred that will pull truly from whipping ; 
it is only adding fuel to fire, and will make him more liable 
to balk another time. You always see horses that have 
been balked a few times, turn their heads and look back as 
soon as they are a little frustrated. This is because they 
have been whipped, and are afraid of what is behind them. 
This is an invariable rule with balky horses, j ust as much as 
it is for them to look around at their sides when they have 
the bots ; in either case they are deserving of the same sym- 
pathy, and the same kind of rational treatment. 

When your horse balks, or is a little excited, or if he wants 
to start quickly, or looks around and don't want to go, there 
is something wrong, and he needs kind treatment immedi- 
ately. Caress him kindly, and if he don't understand at 
once what you want him to do, he will not be so much ex- 
cited as to j amp and break things, and do everything wrong 
through fear. As long as you are calm, and can keep down 
excitement of the horse, there are ten chances to have him 
understand you, where there would not be one under harsh 
treatment ; and then the little fiare up would not carry with 
it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all 
abcut it, and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act 
the horse commits is from mismanagement, fear or excite- 
ment ; one harsh word will so excite a nervous horse as to increase 
his pulse ten beats in a minute. 

Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly if you 
let them stand five or ten minutes, as though there was noth- 
ing wrong, and then speak to them with a steady voice, and 
turn them a little to the right or left so as to get them both 
in motion before they feel the pinch of the load. But if you 
want to start along a team that you are not driving yourself, 
that has been balked, fooled, and whipped for some time, go 
to them and hang the lines on their hames, or fasten them to 
the wagon, so that they will be perfectly loose ; make the 
driver and spectators, if there are any, stand off some distance 
to one side, so as not to attract the attention of the horses ; 
unloose their check reins, so that they can get their heads 
down if they choose ; let them stand a few minutes in this 
condition, until you can see that they are a little composed. 
While they are standing you should be about their heads 
gentling them ; it will make them a little more kind, and the 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 51 

spectators will think you are doing something that they do 
not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you 
have them ready to start, stand before them, and as you sel- 
dom have but one balky horse in a team, get as near in front 
of him as you can, and if he is too fast for the other horse, 
1st his nose come against your breast ; this will keep him 
steady, for he will go slow rather than run on yon ; turn 
them gently to the right, with the wagon ; ha\eit stand in a 
favorable position for starting out, letting them pull on the 
traces as far as the tongue will let them go ; stop them with 
a kind word, gentle them a little, and turn them back to the 
left, by the same process. You will have them under your 
control by this time, and as you turn them again to the right, 
steady them in the collar, and you can take them where you 
please. 

There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky 
horse, but not so sure. Stand him a little ahead, so that his 
shoulder will be against the collar, and then take up one of 
his fore-feet in your hand, and let the driver start them, and 
he will go right along. If you want to break a horse from 
balking that has long been in that habit, you ought to set a 
day apart for that purpose. Put him by the side of some 
steady horse ; have check lines on them ; tie up all the traces 
and straps, so that there will be nothing x o excite them ; do 
not rein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk 
them about together as slowly and lazily as possible ; stop 
often and go up to the balky horse and gentle him, but keep 
him just as quiet as you can. He will soon learn to start off 
at the word, and stop whenever you tell him. 

As soon as he performs right, hitch him to an empty wag- 
on. It would be well to shorten the stay chain behind the 
steady horse, so that if it is necessary he can take the weight 
of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive 
but a few rods at first ; watch your balky horse closely, and 
if you see that he is getting excited, stop him before he stops 
of his own accord, caress him a little, and start again. As 
soon as they go well, drive them over a small hill a few times, 
and then over a large one, occasionally adding a little load. 
This process will make any horse true to pull. 

ADVICE TO THOSE WHO HIKE HORSES. 

It will be for your interest,reader, to use all precautions to 
prevent a horse from becoming sick while in your hands. 
This can be done by adhering to certain rules which I will 
now note down. 

When you leave the stable drive slow for a few miles un- 



52 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

less you know how much the horse has been fed. If he has 
just finished his meal it is very necessary that he should be 
driven at a moderate pace on the start. If he had eaten a 
few hours before, this precaution will be unnecessary. 
When you water your horse never give over two quarts, and 
that once in three hours. Look at his mouth — if it is moist 
with saliva, he does not need watering. If the mouth is 
Iry and if tepid water is at hand, wash out the nostrils 
and mouth with it, if no tepid water is at hand use cold, but 
warm water would cause the saliva to exude, relieving the 
horse by keeping the mouth moist afterwards. 

If you are on a journey stop at 11 a. m. and let your 
horse stand without any food for a half or one whole hour, 
then give about one gallon of water, and let him stand ten 
minutes when he may be given three quarts of oats, or five 
ears of good bright corn, or three pints of shelled corn. Let 
him stand after eating, two or three hours, if you can ; then 
you may put him on a brisk trot, without any danger of 
causing disease. I should rather have a horse driven seven 
miles an hour, treated in this way, than four, if started off 
directly after eating. By watering after feeding, and then 
driving off, gases are generated on the stomach, and give 
colic, or set the botts to work in the membrane of the stomach. 

Again, if the horse is warm when you stop, be careful not 
to stand him in a current of air ; he might take a disease in 
ten minutes that would carry him off; if in very warm 
weather, he had better stand in the sun than in a draught of 
air. If in very cold weather, either stable him or clothe him 
when you stop, to keep the cold air from closing the pores of 
the skin. If you are compelled to stop in the wind, always 
face the wind, then the air blows the way the hair lays. If 
in the winter in a northern climate, never allow a snow-ball 
to remain in the foot, especially if he has been driven fast 
and is warm. The coffin muscle is relaxed by heat, and the close 
proximity of snow would cool off the foot so suddenly that 
the muscle would contract, and in a few days the hoof would 
shrink to the contraction and make him lame. 

Always be cautious to keep the feet from cold water when 
the horse is warm, and any sudden contact of cold with hot 
blood, either in the body or legs, would be dangerous. 
These precautions should be taken either in riding or driving. 
If you drive through water when the horse is warm, give 
exercise enough to keep up the circulation, not to allow the 
blood to be chilled in the veins. If you adhere to these rules, 
you will not be likely to have a horse injured by your man- 
agement. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 53 

ON CHOKING AS A MEANS OF SUBDUING A HOUSE. 

Choking is another method of conquering a skittish, 
stubborn or refractory horse. It is resorted to in cases where 
the measures before described fail to produce the desired 
effect. The principles on which the plan of choking are 
based, are, that you must make a powerful appeal to the in- 
telligence of the animal by physical means before you can 
subdue him. Now we must know that most animals, in 
fighting, seize each other by the throat, and that a dog thus 
held by his antagonist for a few minutes, on being released, 
is often so thoroughly cowed that no human artifice can 
induce liim to again resume the unequal contest. It is, then, 
reasonable to suppose that choking will have a similar 
effect on the horse. When it can be done without injuring 
the animal, it is an easy mode of subduing him, for by its 
operation he becomes docile, and will thereafter receives any 
instruction which he can be made to understook. Teaching 
the horse, by this means, to lie down at our bidding, tends 
to keep him permanently gentle towards man, for it is a per- 
petual reminder of his subdued condition. 

It requires a deal of practice to tame a horse successfully 
by choking; also a nice judgment to know when he is 
choked sufficiently, as there is a bare possibility that he 
might get more than would be good for him. We advise 
persons not perfectly familiar with a horse to resort rather 
to the strapping and thro wing-down process, unless the ani- 
mal to be operated upon is so vicious and intractable that he 
cannot be cured by it. 

TO MAKE HORSES PERFECTLY SAFE FOR FAMILY USE. 

For a family horse, we should select one with a full, prom- 
inent eye, and a broad space between them, full forehead, 
ears straight and pointed ; when in action the ear should be 
in motion, working back and forth, thus showing that he 
knows what is transpiring around him. He should have a 
long, thin neck, and a full trumpet nostril. A horse of these 
points is not apt to tire on the road, for they indicate good 
blood. 

By giving the animal to understand that we are his friend 
and protector, he will feel that he is safe and have confidence 
in us. To assure him of this we must caress him on the head 
and neck, and talk softly to him ; then if you have something 
he is very fond of — by feeding him with it we gain his sym- 
pathy and confidence, and he will remember us and our kind- 
ness to him- To us this is most reasonable. So long as* he 



54 the money-maker's manual. 

is treated kindly he will be kind and gentle himself to every 
one handling him. If he should frighten at any new object, 
by speaking gently, " So ho, my boy !" several times over, it 
assures him at once that he is safe. When your horses are 
harnessed to the carriage, and they wish to start before you 
are ready, do not jerk them, or speak cross, but go to their 
heads, and caress and soothe them, and, when you get in, 
draw the reins up carefully, and talk kindly to them, and al- 
low them to walk off slowly ; in a few days, with such treat- 
ment, your horses will be perfectly tractable and gentle. A 
full blooded horse is as sensitive as a well-bred man, and you 
must not hilloa to him as you might to a hog. This you may 
not believe, but it is so. You must never use the whip, ex- 
cept when the horse knows what and how to do, and will not 
do it, or is lazy, and requires the lash to increase the speed. 
Adhere to the principle of kindness, and you will not fail to 
have a well trained family horse. 

ON THE REARING OF COLTS. 

If a fine colt is desired we must breed to a fine horse thor- 
ough blooded. 

The colt should not be allowed to shrink for two years at 
least. 

If the dam has not sufficient milk to keep him plump, he 
must be fed on cow's milk. Feed him through the winter 
on oatmeal dry and give him cow's milk to drink fc If a colt 
is allowed to shrink during the first two years, he will never 
fill out again as full and plump — his fine points will be un- 
developed. 

The colt should not be kept close to a stable, but allowed 
to run in and out at pleasure. He should not be allowed to 
stand on a plank floor at all. In the spring as soon as the 
grass is good he should be turned out to pasture. 

ON THE TRAINING OF HORSES FOR TROTTING. 

The horse should be in good flesh. He should be driven 
moderately, with walking exercise every morning of about 
five miles. Before going into quarters, give him a brush, for 
one hundred yards, at the top of his speed, and one or two 
miles of moderate driving, sufficient to sweat him ; then rub 
dry with rubbing rags, light rubbing is the best, just enough 
to dry the hair. Hard rubbing on the bones or cords causes 
soreness. Rub the flesh and muscles well to harden them. 
When driving to sweat, put on two thick woolen blankets, 
and drive at full speed two miles. Then turn down the hood, 
or neck cover, and. scrape the head and neck well, and rub 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 55 

dry ; then cover dry, and continue the same over the whole 
body, rubbing lightly and only enough to dry the hair. Then 
put on nice dry covering, and let him stand. Sweating 
often in this way will weaken ; it should be done but seldom. 
Their food and drink should be of the purest kind ; sift 
their oats free from all dust, and dust their hay, too. Give 
about a handful at a feed, morning and noon, and about 
twice that at night. From twelve to sixteen quarts of oats 
would be a great plenty per day — twelve would be plenty for 
the majority. Give one gallon of water in the morning. The 
gflmeat noon. At night, give two gallons of water, and a 
pock of oats, with treble the quantity of hay. You should 
not exercise any horse on a full stomach, for then fast work 
hinders digestion. Grain, lying undigested in the stomach, 
generates a gas by fermentation, which sets the bots at work, 
and gives colic. Indigestion is the cause of many diseases, 
and can be avoided by adhering to the directions for feeding, 
watering and driving, given in the first part of this book. If 
he is bound up, and you wish to physic, give bran mashes. 

ON HORSE BLINDS OR BLINKERS. 

All my experience with and observation of horses, proves 
clearly to me that blinkers should never be used, and that 
the sight of the horse, for many reasons, should not be inter- 
fered with in any way. Horses are only fearful of objects 
they do not understand, or are not familiar with, and the 
eye is one of the principal mediums by which this under- 
standing and this familiarity are brought about. The horse, 
on account of his very amiable nature, can be made in the 
course of time to bear almost anything in any shape ; but 
there is a quicker process of reaching his intelligence than 
that of wearing it into him through his skin and bones. 
However wild or nervous a horse may be, he can be taught 
in a very short time to understand and not to fear any ob- 
ject, however frightful in appearance. Horses can be broken 
in less time, and better without blinkers ; but horses that 
have always worn them will notice the sudden change, and 
must be treated carefully the first drive. After that they 
will drive better without the blinkers than with. I have 
proved by my own experiments that a horse broken without 
blinkers can be driven past any omnibus, cab or carriage, 
on a parallel line as close as it is possible for him to go, with- 
out ever wavering or showing any disposition to dodge. I 
have not in the last eight or ten years, constantly handling 
horses, both wild and nervous, ever put blinkers on any o? 



56 the money-maker's manual. 

them, and in no case have they ever shied at passing ob- 
jects. 

The horse's eye is the life and beauty of the animal, as 
well as the index of his emotions. It tells the driver, in the 
most impressive characters, what the horse's feelings are. 
By it he can tell the first approach of fear in time to meet 
any difficulty ; he can tell if he is happy or sad, hungry or 
weary. The horse, too, when permitted to see, uses his eyes 
with great judgment. He sees better than we do. He can 
measure distances with his eyes better than we can, and if 
allowed free use of them, would often save himself, by the 
quickness of his sight, from collisions when the driver would 
fail to do so by a timely pull of the reins. It would also 
save many accidents to pedestrians in the streets, as no horse 
will run to any person that he can see. Blinkers are rapid- 
ly going out of use in the United States, and I have yet to 
find the man who, having once left them off, could be per- 
suaded to put them on again. They are an unnecessary and 
injurious incumbrance to the horse, and in years hence will 
be a thing to be read of as one of the follies happily re- 
formed in the nineteenth century. 

RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN THE PURCHASE OP A HORSE. 

When about to purchase a horse, examine the eyes well. 
The best j udges are sometimes deceived in the eyes, therefore 
you cannot be too careful. Clearness of the Eyes is a sure in- 
dication of their goodness ; but this is not all that should be 
attended to : the eyelids, eyebrows, and all the other parts, 
must also be considered ; for many horses whose eyes appear 
clear and brilliant, go blind at seven or eight years old. 
Therefore be careful to observe whether the parts between 
the eyelids and the eyebrows are free from bunches, and 
whether the parts round the under eyelids be full, or swelled ; 
for these are indications that the eyes will not last, When 
the eyes are remarkably flat, or sunk within their orbits, it is 
a bad sign ; also when they look dead and lifeless. The iris, 
or circle that surrounds the sight of the eye, should be dis- 
tinct, and of a pale, variegated, cinnamon color, for this is al- 
ways a sure sign of a good eye, and it adds beauty to the ap- 
pearance of the animal. 

Next examine the Teeth, as you would not wish to purchase 
an old horse, nor a very young one for service. 

The Feet should next be regarded ; for a horse with bad 
feet is like a house with a weak foundation, and will do little 
service. The feet should be smooth and tough, of a middle 
size, without wrinkles, and neither too hard and brittle, nor 



THE MONEY-MAKER 5 S MANUAL. 5? 

too soft ; the Heels should be firm, and not spongy and rotten : 
the Frogs horny and dry ; the Soles somewhat hollow, like the 
inside of a dish or bowl. Such feet will never disappoint your 
expectations, and such only should be chosen. 

Particular regard should be had to the Shoulders: they 
should not be too much loaded, for a horse with heavy shoul- 
ders can never move well ; and on the other hand, one that 
has very thin shoulders, and a narrow chest, though he may 
move briskly so long as he is sound, yet he is generally 
weak, and easily lamed in the shoulders ; a medium should 
therefore be chosen. 

The Body, or Carcass, should neither be too small nor too 
large. The Back should be straight, or have only a moderate 
sinking below the Withers : for when the back of a horse is 
low, or higher behind than before, it is both very ugly and a 
sign of weakness. The back should also be a proper length. 
The Bibs should be large, the Flanks smooth and full, and the 
Hind-parts, or, uppermost Haunches not higher than the shoul- 
ders. When the horse trots before you, observe if his 
haunches cover his fore-knees. A horse with a short hind- 
quarter does not look well. 

The next thing to be regarded in a horse is his Wind, which 
may be easily judged of by the motion of his flanks. A 
broken-winded horse also pinches in his flanks, with a very 
slow motion, and drops them suddenly, which may be easily 
perceived. Many horses breathe thick that are not broken- 
winded, indeed, any horse will in foggy weather, or if foul 
fed, without sufficient exercise ; but if a horse has been in 
good-keeping, and had proper exercise, and yet has these 
symptoms, there is some defect either natural or accidental ; 
such as a narrow chest, or some cold that has affected the 
lungs. 

There are other particulars that should be observed in 
choosing a horse. If his Head be large and fleshy, and his 
Neck thick and gross, he will always go heavy on the hand, 
and therefore such should never be chosen. A horse that 
has his Hocks very wide, seldom moves well, and one that 
has them too near will chafe and cut his legs by crossing 
them. Fleshy-legged horses are generally subject to the 
Grease, and other infirmities of that kind, and therefore 
should not be chosen. 

The Temper of a horse should be particularly attended to. 
Avoid a fearful horse, which you may know at first sight by 
his starting, crouching, or creeping, if you approach him. A 
hot and fretful horse is also to be avoided, but the buyer 
should be careful to distinguish between a hot, fretful horse# 



58 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

and one that is eager and craving. The former begins to 
fret the moment he is out of the stable, and continues in 
that humor till he has quite fatigued himself ; and the latter 
oniy endeavors to be foremost in the field, and is truly valu- 
able ; he has those qualities that resemble prudence and 
courage ; the other those of intemperate heat and rashness. 

A horse that goes with his fore-feet low is very apt to 
stumble ; and there are some that go so near the ground that 
they stumble most on even roads ; and the dealers, to remedy 
this, put heavy shoes on their feet, for the heavier a horse's 
shoes are, the higher he will lift his feet. Care also should 
be taken that the horse does not cut one leg with the other. 
A horse that goes near the ground will cut the low side of 
the fetlock joint, but one that goes high cuts below the knee 
which is called the speedy cat. A horse that lifts his feet high 
generally trots fast, but is not the easiest for the rider. 
Some horses cut with the spurn of the foot, and some with 
the heel ; but this you may soon perceive by their standing ; 
for if a horse points the front of his foot inward, he cuts with 
the spurn, and if outward, with the heel. 

These few instructions may be of use in. purchasing 
horses ; but I advise every one to get some experimental 
knowledge of them before he trusts to his own judgment, 
for the dealers have so many arts to hide the defects of their 
horses, that the best judges are often very much deceived. 

HOW TO TELL A HORSE'S AGE BY HIS TEETH. 

The only sure way of telling the age of a horse, is by the 
teeth, and these only for certain time ; after which time there 
is nothing to depend on, although you can guess very near, 
by the front teeth of his upper jaw, until he is about twelve 
or thirteen ; this, with the face of the horse, and some other 
marks, enables one experienced in horses to guess pretty cor- 
rectly. 

There are six teeth above, and six below, in the fore part 
of the horse's mouth, from which we may judge of his age, 
they are called gatherers. When a colt is foaled, he has no 
teeth in the front of his mouth. In a few days two come in 
the upper jaw, and two below. Again, in a few days, four 
more appear ; but the corner teeth do not come for several 
months — three or four. These twelve teeth remain un- 
changed in the front of the colt's mouth, until he is two or 
two and a half years old, when he begins to change them for 
permanent ones ; although the manner in which he has been 
&d regulates, in a measure, the time of change. 

Until he is in his eighth year, ybu toll his agfc by the front 



THE MONEY-MAKER's MANUAL. 59 

teeth in the lower jaw — so we will only speak of these. At 
first he sheds the two middle teeth of the six. These are 
succeeded by two permanent, or horse teeth, of a deeper 
color, and stronger — and grooved or fluted from top to bottom, 
with a black cavity in the centre. He is now about three. 
In the latter part of the fourth year, the teeth on each side of 
the teeth in the centre undergoes the same process, and he 
becomes possessed of four horse teeth in the middle, with 
their natural black marks in the centre, and one colt's tooth 
only on each side. He next sheds his corner teeth. When 
he has their successors his mouth is full. He has the black 
mark now in all the six teeth, and is five years old. 

After a horse is seventeen or eighteen, the grinders wear 
down, and the nippers prevent the grinders from coming to- 
gether, so that he cannot masticate his food as well as a six 
year old horse. 

"WEIGHTS TO BE CARRIED IN TROTTING. 

Weights to be carried by every trotting horse starting for a 
match, purse, or stake : 

Every horse shall carry one hundred and forty-six pounds ; 
if in harness, the weight of the sulky and harness not to be 
considered. Pacing horses liable to the same rule. 

RACE DISTANCES. 

A distance of mile heat — best three in five^— shall be one 
hundred yards ; for one mile heats eighty yards ; and for 
every additional heat an additional eighty yards. 

The time between heats shall be. for one mile twenty, and 
for every additional mile, five minutes. 

TO PUT HORSES IN GOOD CONDITION. 

They need food care and clean feed. Do not use condi- 
tion powders, or such medicines ; they are not needed, and 
are humbugs. If your horse is hide-bound, and out of con- 
dition, give him a good purge of linseed oil, or castor oil — 
one pint. Then give bran mashes morning and evening ; he 
will soon regain his appetite, and will be all right. At any 
t one when your horse loses his appetite, check his food, and 
give a mash. Give as little medicine as possible. By this 
treatment you will have healthy horses. 

TO KEEP HORSES FREE FROM DISEASE. 

The stable must be clean and well ventilated. There is 
nothing more conducive to good health than pure air and 
clean food. The ceiling of. the stable shduld be at kfcet ten 



60 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 



inches square, running out at the roof. The loft should bo 
perfectly tight, so that the breath of the horse cannot rise 
and mix with the hay, which may be injured both in taste 
and wholesomeness. It is a bad plan to put hay in a rack ; 
the horse breathes on it and makes it less palateable and 
healthy. Feed from a box in front, and but little at a time ; 
he will neither waste it or otherwise injure it. The ventila- 
tion in wall of the stable should be as high up as possible 
so as not to injure him by drafts of air, from which he 
should always be kept. 

Filthy stables cause weak eyes, and a running at the nose, 
in many instances. The decomposition of vegetable matter, 
and the urine, give out stimulating and unhealthy vapors, 
and a strong smell of hartshorn. How can it but cause in- 
flamation of the eyes or lung, or glanders and farcy ? Be 
careful to have your stables so the urine will run off, but 
don't raise the planking much higher at the front than at 
the back, for this will cause a strain of the back sinews, and 
lameness, and thickening up of the same. It is an unnat- 
ural way for man or horse to stand. 

The horse stalls should have holes bored in the planking, 
and they should always be kept open. In summer, the 
horse should always if he stands on a dirt floor stand on 
straw, or bitter of some kind ; it relieves the feet in stamp- 
ing. 

It is very injurious to keep horses in a dark stable ; it is 
bad for the eyes, and many horses go blind from this cause. 
You should likewise avoid a glaring light, or straining white 
walls. Give a mellow light, with clean stabling, clean food, 
clean litter, and all will be well. 

HOW TO SHOE A HORSE. 

If we examine the horse's foot while in his natural state it 
will be found almost round, and very elastic at the heel. The 
frog, broad, plump, and of a soft yielding character ; the com- 
missares, open and well defined, and the sole concave ; the 
outside of the crust, from the heels to the toe, increased from 
a slight level to an angle of about forty-five degrees. Conse- 
quently as the hoof grows, it becomes wider and larger in pro- 
portion to the amount of horn secreted, and the narrower and 
shorter in proportion to the amount of horn cut away from 
the ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and accu- 
rately to the foot, after being dressed down well, it would be 
found too narrow and short for the same foot after the lapse 
of a few weeks. Now, If any unyielding shoe of iron is nailed 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 61 

firmly to this naturally enlarged and elastic hoof, it prevents 
its natural freedom of expansion almost wholly, and does not, 
as the foot grows down, allow it to become wider at the 
quarters, in proportion to the quantity of horn grown, as be- 
fore being shod ; and consequently the foot changes, from the 
continued effect of the restraint, from an almost round, 
healthy foot, to a contracted and unhealthy condition, as 
generally seen in horses shod for a few years. The principles 
which should govern in shoeing, are few and simple, and it is 
surprising that a matter involving such serious consequences, 
should be conducted with so little consideration. The object 
of the shoer should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof 
for the shoe, to keep the foot natural, and this involves : 

First. — The cutting away of any undue accumulation of horn 
affecting in the least its health and freedom. 

Second. — To carry out in the form of the shoe, that of the 
foot as nearly as possible. 

Third. — To fit and fasten the shoe to the foot so as to inter- 
fere least witli its health and elasticity. 

The object in preparing the foot for the shoe should be to 
remove any undue accumulation of horn, designed to prevent 
its natural bearing, and the free, healthy action of its parts, 
and requires the cutting away of about the proportion con- 
tact with the ground would have worn off or so much as had 
grown since being shod last. If the shoes had been on a 
month, then the proportion of horn secreted in the time is to 
be removed. If on two months, then the proportion of two 
months growth. No definite rule can be given, the j udgment 
must be governed by the circumstances of the case. The 
stronger and more rapid the growth of the foot, the more 
must be cut away ; and the weaker and less horn produced, 
the less, to the extreme of simply leveling the crust a little 
the better to conform to the shoe. There is generally a far 
more rapid growth of horn at the toe, than at either the heels 
or the quarters ; more, therefore, will require to be taken off 
the toe than off the other parts. Therefore shorten the toe 
and lower the heels until you succeed in bringing down the 
bearing surface of the hoof", upon the shoe, to almost a level 
with the live horn of the sole. Be careful to make the heel 
level. 

Having lowered the crust to the necessary extent with the 
buttress or knife, smooth it down level with the rasp. The 
sole and frog detach the old horn by exfoliation as it becomes 
superabundant. The sole, therefore, would not need paring 
were it not for the restraining effect of the shoe upon the 



62 the money-maker's manual. 

general functions of the foot, which, is liable to prevent such de- 
tachment of the horn. 

When this is the case, the sole should be properly dressed 
out with an English shave, the end of which is shaped like 
an iron used at sawmills to mark and measure boards. The 
buttress is too large and square edged to dress out so concave 
a surface properly, and unless great care is exercised it will 
not only penetrate through the sole in some places, but leave 
others entirely neglected. While a good workman may work 
well with almost any kind of tool, such have also the facility 
of adapting tools to the work. A horse's foot is not to be 
hacked and cut as if only a block of lifeless wood, and if even 
a lifeless machine, what care would be found necessary to 
preserve its harmony of action complete. The buttress does 
not seem to be at all adapted to dressing out the sole, and 
should not be used for that purpose. While we are obliged 
to find fault with the carelessness of blacksmiths in this re- 
spect, it is with the spirit of kindness, sensible that we are 
ourselves only dull pupils in the work of reform, and perhaps 
reserving severe criticism. 

We would be particular also in impressing the necessity 
of not confounding the bars with the substance of the sole, 
and cutting them down to the common level with the sole. 
Any man of common sense can see, that the bearing of the 
bars should be equal to the outside of the crest upon the 
shoe, and that they offer a decided resistance to the contrac- 
tion of the heels. The cutting away of the bars, to give the 
heels an open appearance, is inexcusable, and should never 
be done. 

In a natural, healthy condition, the frog had a line of bear- 
ing with the hoof, and by its elastic nature, acts as a safe- 
guard to the delicate machinery of the foot immediately 
over it, and helps to preserve the foot in its natural state, by 
keeping the heels spread. It seems to be wisely intended to 
give life and health to the foot. Permitting the heels to 
grow down, with the addition of high heeled shoes, raises 
the frog from its natural position, and causes it to shrink and 
harden, and bears in consequence an important influence in 
setting up a diseased action that usually results in contrac- 
tion of the foot. If the heels are square and high, and the 
hoof presents rather a long, narrow appearance, and is hol- 
low on the bottom, there is a state of contraction going on 
and you must not hesitate to dress down thoroughly. Do 
not hesitate because the foot will appear small ; cut away 
until you are well down to a level with live horn of the sole, 
and' if the foot ife wteak, u^e the same prudence in not cutting 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 63 

it away too much. The shoer must always "bear in mind 
that the sole must not rest upon the shoe. The sole, when 
not clogged with old horn, acts as a spring to the weight of 
the horse, and if it re3ts upon the shoe, an inflammation may 
be caused by the pressure of the coffin bone upon the sensi- 
tive luminae, which is liable in consequence to be so bruised 
as to cause soreness and inflammation. The effect of such 
bruises are most common at the angle of the inner heel, 
where the descending heel of the coffin bone, forcibly press- 
ing the soft, sensible sole, upon the horny sole, is apt to rup- 
ture one or more of the small blood vessels of the delicate 
fleshy substance connecting the crust to the coffin bone of 
the part, causing red spots called corns. Let the foot be so 
dressed down, and the shoe so approximated, that the bear- 
ing will come evenly upon the crust all the way round, with- 
out the sole touching the shoe. This requires the crust to 
be dressed level, and although well down to the live horn of 
the sole, it should always be left a little higher. The corners 
between the bars and crust should be well pared out, so that 
there is no danger of the sole resting upon the shoe. 

THE SHOE. 

The principal object should be to have the shoe so formed 
as to size, weight, fitting and fastening, as to combine the 
most advantages of protection, and preserve the natural 
tread of the foot the best ; in weight it should be proportioned 
to the work or employment of the horse. If the horse walks 
principally upon the road, his shoes should be rather heavy. 
The ground surface of the shoe should correspond with the 
ground surface of the foot in its natural state, or in other 
words it must have a concave surface corresponding with 
the concave surface of the foot. The nail holes should be 
punched coarse, and in the centre of the web. If the hind 
shoe, four on the side and well forward ; if the forward shoe, 
four on the outside, and two or three well forward in the in- 
side toe, as found necessary to retain the shoe. The manner 
of fastening the shoe in what really affects the foot ; and 
which require the most especial attention in shoeing. 

INTERFERING SHOES. 

First find what part of the foot hits the opposite ankle 
which you can do by wrapping the ankle with a rag nicely, 
which color with some kind of coloring matter, over where 
the opposite foot hits, you can then discover by driving where 
the color adheres and what portion of the crus- hits the an- 
kl& RemoVe this portion and have the shcfe 8*eft wtell under 



64 the money-maker's manual. 

tlie foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot safely 
hy tlie bearing of the bar and heel. The hoof should be 
pared lower on the outside, to turn the ankle, that the other 
hoof may pass clear. Yet if the inside sole is not dressed, the 
rim soon breaks, and the inside is found to be actually lower 
than the outside. Shoes, to prevent interfering, should be 
light and of narrow web, on the inside, with three nail holes 
near the toe. They should be straight at tlie point where 
they come in contact with the opposite leg. By adhering 
strictly to this principle of paring the foot, and fitting and 
fastening of the shoe, you will prevent a recurrence of the 
difficulty. 

Shoes, to prevent over-reaching, should be long, and for the 
forward feet, heavy, especially at the heels ; and for the hind 
feet, light, with heavy toes. The hoof should be well pared 
at the toe. 

THE FOOT AND ITS DISEASES. 

The crust, or wall, is that part which is seen when the 
foot is placed upon the ground, and reaches from the hair to 
the ground. It is deepest in front, where it is called the toe ; 
shallower at the sides, which are called quarters, and of least 
depth behind where it is termed the heel, it is placed flat 
upon the ground, but ascends obliquely backward, and pos- 
sesses different degrees of obliquity in different feet. In a 
sound hoof, the proper degree of standing is calculated at 
forty-five degrees, or the fourth part of a semi-circle. This 
crust is thicker in front, being about half an inch, and at the 
quarters and heel is very much thinner. It is also thinner 
at the inner than the outer quarter, where the most weight 
is thrown upon. It is under the inner splint bone, on which 
so much weight rests, and being thinner, it is able to expand 
more — its elasticity is called more into play, and concussion 
and injury are avoided. 

On account of its thinness and the additional weight 
which it bears, the inner heel wears away quicker than the 
outer — a circumstance which should never be forgotten by 
the smith. His object is to give a plain and level bearing to 
the whole of the crust. 

Thus it will be unnecessary to remove but very little, if 
any, from the inner heel, as it has worn, away faster than the 
outside, from the greater weight it bears, which would cause 
corns and quarter cracks, and even splints, the concussions 
being so much greater. This may all be avoided by paying 
a little attention when shoeing. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 65 



THE FROG. 



In the place between the bars, and exactly filling it, is the 
frog. It is a triangular piece of horn projecting from the 
sole, almost on a level with the crust, and covering and de- 
fending a soft and spungy substance, and called the " sensi- 
ble frog." It is wide at the heels, and above the shell or 
crust of the foot, and runs to a point like a wedge. This is 
to keep the heel apart ; and prevent him from slipping. It 
will adhere to the ice like rubber. There is a cleft, com- 
mencing at the back and running nearly two-thirds the 
length of the frog, which is firmly united to the sole, but of 
a nature entirely distinct from it, being a soft, spongy sub- 
stance, and very elastic. It never can be bruised until it has 
been cut, when it becomes a hard, horny substance, and by 
treading on anything solid in going fast, it springs or presses 
on the sensible part of the foot, and causes corns. Now, 
this frog should never be cut or pared in the least ; let it 
look ever so ragged, it is then, healthy. It sheds every three 
months ; but if the knife is used, it is more or less inj ured. 

THE SOLE. 

This is the inner surface of the foot, and is both concave 
and elastic, and extends from the crust to the bars and frog. 
It is not as thick as the crust. Notwithstanding its situation, 
there is not as much weight thrown on it as there is on the 
crust ; because it was intended to expand, in order to prevent 
concussion when the weight was thrown upon it. It is 
thicker at the toe, and where it connects with the crust. The 
principal weight is thrown upon the toe, by the coffin bone 
wedging in. It is not brittle, in health, and it is somewhat 
hollow, which gives spring to it and lessens the shock of 
striking the ground when in rapid motion ; for if the sole 
was flat, there would be no spring to it, and it would be 
bruised by sudden contact with the ground. Thus you see 
that by cutting, the spring of the sole is inj ured and the sole 
itself becomes dry and hard, and brittle. But if never 
touched, it retains the moisture, keeps the foot from shrink- 
ing, and keeps it healthy. 

THE COFFIN BONE. 

Beneath the lower pastern, and entirely enclosed in the 
hoof, is the proper bone. of the foot — the coffin, bone. It fills 
about one half of the fore part of the hoof, to which it is fit- 
ted. It is light and spongy, and filled with numerous holes, 
through which pass the blood-vessels of the foot. These are 



G6 the money-maker's manual. 

necessarily numerous, considering the important and various 
secretions there going on ; and the circulation could not be 
kept up if these vessels did not run through the substance of 
the bone. The holes about the coffin bone carry the blood 
to the little leaves with which it is covered ; those near the 
lower part go to the sole. As this bone is enclosed in the 
homy box of the crust, no inconvenience can arise from an 
outward pressure ; for the bone allows free passage to the 
blood, and protects it from every obstruction. 

The fore part of the coffin bone, besides being thus perfor- 
ated, is curiously roughened, for the attachment of numerous 
little leaves. On its upper surface is a concavity for the head 
of the lower pastern. In front is a striking prominence, into 
which is inserted the extensor tendon of the foot. At the 
back it is sloped for articulation with the navicular bone ; 
and more underneath is a depression for the reception of the 
flexor tendon, continued down the leg, passing over the na- 
vicular bone, and then inserted into this bone. On either 
side are proj ections, called the heels of the coffin bone, and 
the bottom is hollowed to match the internal part of the sole. 
The most peculiar part of the coffin bone is thaproduction of 
numerous little leaves around its front and sides. They are 
prolongations of the thick and elastic membrane covering the 
coffin bone, and consist of cartilagenous fleshy plates corres- 
ponding with and received between the horny leaves that 
line the inside of the crust. The horny leaves are secreted 
from or produced by the fleshy ligaments, and, being five hun- 
dred in number, their union with each other is sostrongthat 
they are inseparable. 

When the animal is at rest, the whole weight is supported 
by these leaves, and not by the sole. It is the contraction of 
the coffin muscle that creates so much pain when the horse is 
foundered. The foot is then feverish, the blood vessels are 
filled with hot blood, and the foot is very sensitive to the 
touch of the hammer or any jar upon the crust. The elastici- 
ty of the sole prevents the foot from being bruised when in 
violent action. 

Between the coffin bone and horny sole is the sensible 
sole, which is of a ligamentous or tendonous nature, well 
supplied with blood vessels and with nervous fibres, so that 
it is very sensitive. A small stone under the shoe will 
cause great inflammation, and corn3 are caused by the same. 
The smith needs to use great care in setting the shoe. 

CONTRACTED FEET. 

Sometimes only one foot bocomes contracted ; this may bo 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 67 

caused, in a cold climate, by leaving a snowball in the bot- 
tom of the foot after the horse has been exercised until he 
is very warm. The coffin muscle is then relaxed by heat, 
and the snow-ball cools it so sudden that it contracts. In a 
few days the hoof shrinks to the muscle thus contracted, 
leaving- a ridge in the hoof. 

In a warm climate, it maybe caused by letting a horse 
stand, even a short time, in cool water, after exercising and 
heating the blood. If you wish to bathe your horse's legs, 
do it with warm water, always ; then you avoid all danger, 
and leave the limbs soft and pliable. 

Also, cutting away too much of the sole of the foot, de- 
prives it of the very substance which holds the moisture and 
keeps the foot healthy. Cutting the frog makes it hard and 
horny, and when struck hard upon a stone it is pressed to 
the quick, causing fever. Both practices will cause contrac- 
tion. 

Cure. — When first discovered, bathe the legs from the 
knee down, in hot water ; do this twice a day for two weeks, 
every night stuffing the feet with clay. His shoes should 
merely rest on the rim of the foot. Never use a shoe with a 
swelled heel. When caused by cutting, stuff the feet with 
clay and use the concave shoes. Never use ointments or 
grease of any description upon the outside of the hoof, as 
they close the pores and create fever, without removing the 
cause of the disease. 



This is a very disagreeable discharge of offensive matter 
from the cleft of the frog. It is from inflammation of the 
lower surface of the sensible frog, by which pus is secreted 
together with or instead of horn. If the frog is sound, the 
cleft sinks but a little way into it ; but by contraction or 
other causes, the cleft will penetrate to the sensible sole 
within. Through this fissure the discharge proceeds. It 
may be caused by bruises or filth. The sinking in at the 
quarters will cause the horn to press upon the frog, 01 
cutting the frog will cause it to become hard and horny. It 
can readily be distinguished from any other disease by the 
offensive smell ; run a stick or blade\in the fissure, and the 
discharge will assure you. 

Cure. — First poultice with linseed meal, put on hot. and 
let it remain twelve hours ; then use a paste made of two 
ounces of blue vitriol, one ounce white vitriol, powdered as 
finely as possible, mix well with one pound of tar and two 
pounds of lard. Apply this in the cleft. It may be put on 



68 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

tow, and pushed in. Let it remain twelve hours ; and then 
cleanse out with soft water and soap. When dry, make the 
second application ; also renew the poultices* at night, until 
all inflammation disappears. 

If you wish to dry it up quick, (which I do not approve,) 
you can use the spirits of salt, ten or fifteen drops at a time. 
(2.) Cleanse the foot out well, then crowd in fine salt and 
wash with beef brine. But in all cases of thrush, first use 
poultices, to relieve the inflammation. A carrot poultice is 
good, if linseed is not convenient. After this, stuff the foot 
with clay, in dry weather ; this will keep it cool and moist, 
and will make it less liable to be bruised. The horse should 
take physic during the time, to cleanse the blood. Use Bar- 
badoes aloes, pulverized, and mixed with linseed oil sufficient 
to make into balls. Dose one ounce. 

GREASE. 

In many cases swelled legs, although distinct from grease, 
degenerate into it. This disease is inflammation of the skin 
of the heel, and very seldom comes on the fore legs. The 
skin of the heel has a peculiar greasy feeling, and, when in- 
flamed, the secretion of this greasy matter is stopped. The 
heels become red, dry, and scurvy, and, being so much in 
motion, they very soon crack, and sometimes ulceration and 
fungus will extend over the whole heel. The first appearance 
of grease is usually a dry, scurvy state of the skin of the heel. 
They should now be washed with soap and water, and re- 
lieved of all the hard substance that they can by soaking ; 
then wipe dry, and sprinkle on pulverized verdigris ; this 
will dry up. But when the heels are badly cracked, and ul- 
ceration has commenced, it will be necessary to poultice 
them with linseed oil, or, if not at hand, carrots boiled soft 
and mashed fine ; this is a good poultice for any inflamed 
part. 

When the inflammation and pain have gone, and there is 
a healthy discharge of matter, dress with an ointment of one 
ounce of rosin, two ounces of honey in the comb, two ounces 
of lard, and one ounce of caliman powder ; this cools and heals 
very fast. If the fungus is not entirely gone, wash with two 
drachms of blue vitriol in a pint of water. It is well to give 
a mild diuretic every third day — one table spoonful of pul- 
verized rosin, in a ball of bran mash. Mash the horse while 
treating for this. Sassafras tea is good for him. If the legs 
swell after they are healed, bandage every night, and give 
moderate walking exercise. Give a slight purge of linseed 
oil or Barbadoes aloes. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 09 

Another Cure or Remedy is — Two oz. Flour Sulphur ; 
h oz. Verdigris. Mis and apply after washing. 

Cure for the Grease prom Internal Causes. — If the 
horse be full of flesh, the cure must be begun by bleeding, 
rowels, and repeated purging ; after which two ounces of the 
following balls should be given every other day for some 
time, and they will work by urine the day following : 4 oz. 
of Yellow Resin, 2 oz. of Salt of Prunel, 1 oz. of Oil of Juniper, 
2 oz. of Salt of Tartar, 8 oz. of Castile Soap, 1 oz. of Camphor. 
Put these into a mortar with about two ounces of honey, or 
as much as will make them into balls, and they will carry 
off the offending humors, and free the blood from its noxious 
qualities. But at the same time that these internal remedies 
are taken, outward ones should not be omitted. 

CURE FOR GRAPE LEGS. 

These may be cured on their first appearance, when they 
are in the bud, by laying on caustic, or corrosive sublimate. 
When the swelling is abated, make the following into a 
salve to dress the sores with : 1 oz. of Blue Stone Vitriol, in 
powder, 2 oz. of White Lead, in powder, 4 oz. of Honey. 
Mis these well together, and lay .them on the sores with 
tow, to heal them ; but, should they continue foul, and not 
frame to heal, mis four ounces of green salve, and four ounces 
of iEgyptiacum ointment well together, and lay it on in the 
above manner. The mistures will both heal and dry up the 
sores. 

POUNDERS, HOW CAUSED, ETC. 

The Chest Founder is produced by violent esercise on a 
full stomach, and drinking large quantities of cold branch 
water ; by the use of mouldy bran, corn, or oats, or by eating 
large quantities of green food, such as oats, wheat, peas, etc., 
while performing hard labor. The seat of the disease is in 
the lungs ; the heart and liver are also considerably enlarged, 
inasmuch that there is not room for them to perform their of- 
fice with ease. The liver, lungs, diaphragm, and surrounding- 
parts, are all covered with large brown spots, and are much 
inflamed. 

There are many that hold that a horse can be foundered 
with grain. This is not so. The argument given is that they 
have driven horses or have known cases where the horse was 
driven under a shed and fed without watering. This may be 
so ; but that is no argument ; for a horse may be driven and 
stand where there is a cold blast of wind that would chill a 
horse as bad as water. This would create founder as well as 



70 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

water; anything cold would create contrad ion ; where, on 
the contrary, grain would create heat, instead of cold, and 
heal would relax ; so that argument is worth naught. I 
will not pretend to say but that grain would injure a horse 
when hot. You might give corn meal, and it would bake in 
the maw, and there would be no passage ; this would kill, but 
not founder. You are well aware that to heat a tire, then 
place it over the felly, it is perfectly loose, but when you put 
on cold water, it contracts to the felly and strengthens the 
wheel. So you will see at once that it is cold that causes 
founder. Cold contracts and heat relaxes, and grain would 
create heat. 

Cure. — When the horse is foundered, take one and a half 
or two gallons of blood from the neck vein ; then give, as a 
physic, six drachms of Barbadoes aloee, dissolved or in balls , 
Cover the horse over ; then commence bathing with as hot 
water as you can use. Keep this up for an hour, at least. 
Then stretch an old pantaloon leg over each of his fore legs, 
bind it around the hoof, then fill in with hot boiled oats : 
give as a drink sassafras tea, made from the root ; and give 
bran mashes, with a table-spoonful of pulverized rosin. He 
should have a mash once a day for three or four days. Thia 
will cure him. 

But in case of founders of long standing, or even if the hoof 
has shrunk to the contraction of the muscle, it will be neces- 
sary to treat it somewhat differently. The bleeding should 
be omitted, the legs bathed twice a, day, and the feet should 
be poulticed with flaxseed meal three times a week, at night, 
or in day time if he is not at work. If he could run out to a 
marshy pasture, it would not be necessary to poultice;. But 
he must have something to act on the blood. Take of digi- 
tails four drachms, emetic tartar four drachms, nitre six 
drachms ; divide this into two doses, and give one in three 
days. Between the days that this is given, give bran mashes 
mixed with sassasiras tea. This physic may be given once 
in every three weeks, with the feet always to be kept moist. 
It will take three months to effect a cure. When of long 
standing, the muscles of the shoulder sometimes contract, as 
in sweeney. In this case a seaton of from nine to fifteen 
inches must be used, according to the contraction. 

THE NAVICULAR BONE. 

This is placed at the head of the coffin bone, and at the 
foot of the lower pastern, and is shaped like a wedge. Its of- 
fice is to protect the coffin-joint at the back part. The frog 
getting dry and feverish, would allow the ligaments to be 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 71 

bruised, and cause lameness — another reason why the foot 
needs great care. 

QUARTER CRACK. 

For this, pare with a sharp knife from the hair down, taking 
away the whole back part of the hoof down to the quick ; 
then pare the other down thin ; then set your shoe only so 
far as the hoof runs. By this means the shoe cannot spring 
down upon the heel. The hoof will then grow down firm 
and sound. 

Heaves. 

Reasons why it is not in the Lungs. — First. If the 
disease was in the lungs, it would create inflammation, and 
nave the same effect as inflammation of the lungs by cold. 
The horse would be weak and drooping, without appetite, 
and really could not be driven two miles as any person would 
naturally drive a horse. But a heavy horse can be driven 
from eight to twelve miles within an hour. This is positive 
proof that it is not in the lungs. 

Second. — Take a heavy horse and turn him out to pasture 
forty-eight hours, and he will breathe clear and easy, show- 
ing no bigns of the heaves. The grass has not reached the 
lungs, still it has stopped the hard breathing ; but if you 
will give the horse cold water to drink, he will cough. Has 
the water touched the lungs ? No ; but it has touched the 
disease. This is another reason why it is not in the lungs. 

I will tell you where the disease is, and what it is caused 
by. First. — A dainty horse is not liable to heaves, but a 
hearty eater is liable to this disease — not from the amount 
of food that he eats, but from the hoggish way of eating. 
There are two pipes leading to the stomach and lungs ; 
where they meet there is a throttle-valve. A horse on eating 
coarse food, scratches his throttle ; then, by a hard drive, and 
warming the horse, he takes cold in his wound, and it be- 
comes a running sore or canker. By turning the horse to 
grass, the j uice cleanses and washes the wound ; the grass 
being cool takes the inflammation from the disease ; the 
swelling is gone, and the horse breathes free and easy as 
ever. This is positive proof that it is not in the lungs. Then, 
by feeding with coarse and diy hay, it irritates and creates 
inflammation and causes the horse to breathe hard again. 

Cure. — Take Balsam of Fir and Balsam of Copavia, equal 
parts; add enough calcined magnesia to make into balls. 



72 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

Give a middle-sized ball, night and morning, for ten days 01 
two weeks — a ball about the size of the yolk of an egg. 
This a sure cure. I never made a failure in any case. You 
should be careful about feeding for two weeks, after giving 
the medicine. Cut feed, and wet the hay. A little brown 
sugar in his food for a few days would be good. 

Lung Fever. 

This disease always makes its appearance by a chill, the 
horse will shake and tremble like a person with the ague. 
Whilst the chill is on, take a half a pint of fine salt, put in 
a bottle of water, shake well, and drench the horse. This 
will release him entirely from the chill, and create perspira- 
tion, and he will be quite sick for a few minutes ; but it will 
drive the cold entirely out, and he will look bright, and feel 
entirely well, in a few hours. But if you should not discover 
him while the chill is on, it will require different treatment. 
If he has been free from the chill for five or six hours, the 
symptoms will be, eyes inflamed, nostrils distended, breath 
short and quick, and he will stand with his head down ; his 
pulse from fifty to one hundred. You will find- it under the 
jaw, just below where you buckle the throat latch. By 
putting your ear back of the fore leg you will hear a quick, 
heavy beating of the lungs. He will have no disposition to 
move or eat, but will drink ; he never lies down. These are 
sure signs of inflammation of the lungs. 

The causes of inflammation of the lungs are many. It may 
be brought on by filthy stables, but is usually by sudden 
changes from heat to cold, and vice versa. The membrane 
that lines the cells of the lungs is very sensitive ; there is 
also an intimate connection between the lungs and the pores 
of the skin ; by stopping the insensible perspiration, a cold 
and cough ensue. A horse is driven until a sensible perspi- 
ration is pouring from him, then he is left in a current of air, 
which closes the pores of the skin, thus arresting the perspi- 
ration, and driving the inflammation which it causes to the 
lungs. The majority of cases are very sudden. At first, the 
pulse is not much quicker, but the artery is plainly to be felt 
under the finger, and of its usual size. The pulse no longer 
indicates the expansion of the vessel ; in some cases it eludes 
a most delicate touch ; the legs are cold, and the nostrils ex- 
panded ; the flanks begin to heave with a quick and hurried 
motion, a symptom of pain ; the membrane of the nose is 
very red; he stands with his legs abroad ; his countenance 
indicates suffering, and he looks mournfully towards hie 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. ^3 

flanks ; he is unwilling to move — scarce ever lies down ; if 
he does, 'tis only for a moment, from actual fatigue. 

The duration of this disease is very uncertain. It will in 
some cases destroy in from twelve to twenty hours, and 
sometimes they will last for weeks. In sudden attacks of 
this kind, the lungs are entirely destroyed, resembling one 
black mass of blood. 

The disease invariably makes its appearance with a chill. 
He commences trembling and shaking as if half frozen. At 
this stage of disease, the object should be to get up a 
reaction. Dissolve half a pint of fine salt, in warm water ; 
shake it well, and give as a drench ; then clothe him, and in 
fifteen minutes he will be wet with perspiration ; bathe his 
legs in warm water. 

But if the fever has commenced, it will require different 
treatment ; if it has been on, say six hours, it will be neces- 
sary to bleed, and very severely so. Open as large an orifice 
in the vein as possible ; the object is to get control of the 
blood. The heart is working very hard to force the blood 
through the lungs. Bleed until the pulse is much slower, 
or flutters ; then bathe the leg with as hot water as he can 
bear ; bathe frequently, to get up circulation in the extremi- 
ties. 

If the attack is a severe one, blister the brisket, and the 
sides, as high up as the elbows — a mustard blister, if it will 
do ; if not, with the fly blister — four oz. lard, one oz. rosin, and 
one oz. flies. It will not do to purge : there is so much sym- 
pathy between the bowels and the lungs, purging would 
transfer the inflammation to the bowels. In such a case, 
you must use clysters. Take eight oz. Epsom salts dissolve 
in warm gruel, and inject ; this will start the bowels, which 
are somewhat relaxed. You must now use cooling or seda- 
tive medicines. Take of digitails one drachm, one and a 
half of emetic tartar, and three of nitre ; give three times a 
day ; this will have an immediate effect on the heart, lessen- 
ing the number of pulsations, and producing an intermit- 
tent state of the pulse ; every six or seven beats, there will 
be a suspension while two or three could be counted. From 
this he will amend. Now reduce the dose to one half, and 
in a few days, it will not be necessary to give any medicinal 
of any kind. 

He should now have oatmeal gruel, or flaxseed meal gruel ; 
they are strengthening. Mashes may be given, or green food, 
in small quantities. For inhaling, which is one of the most 
essential things to be done, use — digitails one half ounce, ni- 
tre one ounce, and of balsams, fir and copaiva, two ounces 



74 the money-maker's manual. 

each. Mix these together with one pint 95 spirits, and add 
one pint hot rain water. Cover the horse all over, letting the 
blankets reach the ground, so that no air can get under them. 
Then hold the mixture under his nose, and, at the same time, 
touch a hot iron in the compound, and let him inhale the 
steam or fumes arising from the mixture. This will relieve 
the lungs from fever, drive the inflammation to the surface, 
and the cure is positive. 

adhesive plasters. 

These plasters should be used over parts that have been 
strained, or otherwise weakened, and on deep-seated inflam- 
mation of the loins or back sinews. They are always to be 
applied warm, when they will adhere for a long time. The 
following is a good plaster : 

Take of Burgundy or common pitch five ounces, of yellow 
wax one ounce, of tar six ounces. Melt together. When 
cooled to blood heat, add half a drachm of pulverized cantha- 
rides. Stir well together. 

When you apply it, warm or melt it over, and rub it well 
into the hair upon the sprain ; then, while it is yet warm, 
(for it should be applied as hot as possible,) spread over it a 
lint of tow, well picked ; pat down with the hand. This will 
make a strong covering, and will remain for months. It will 
gradually remove deep-seated inflammation, and, by its pres- 
sure, promotes the absorption of any callous or thickening 
beneath ; at the same time, as a bandage, it gives strength 
to the parts. 

PHYSICING. 

There is more injury done in the practice of this than in 
any other medical treatment of the horse. The old practice 
has been to physic and bleed every spring, and this is neces- 
sary where the horse is really sick. When you change him 
from the pasture to the warm stable and dry food, it is also 
good, the horse must be prepared for it. Give three or four 
mashes before the physic, and, in the majority of cases, they 
will be sufficient without it, especially if the bowels are 
slightly moved, for really the less medicine given the better. 

After the physic is given, the horse should have walking 
exercise for an hour or two ; but, when it begins to operate, 
he should be kept still as possible, or the medicine would be 
likely to gripe, and perhaps irritate the intestinal canal, and 
cause inflammation. You can give him a small amount of 
hay, and as much mash as he will eat, and as much water 
with the chill off as he chooses to drink : if he will not drink 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 75 

tepid water, give him about a quart of cold water every hour. 
When the purging ceases, give a mash twice a day, until 
you give more physic, which should be only once a week. 

Barbadoes aloes Is the best purgative, being always sure 
and safe. The dose, with the horse prepared by bran mashes, 
would vary from five t,o seven drachms, the latter sufficient 
for any horse. You can dissolve in warm water, and give as 
a drench, or make into a ball with linseed oil, and lay upon 
the roots of the tongue, letting go the tongue at the same 
time. 

The next best purgative is the Croton nut ; the fatina or 
meal of the nut is used. It should be made into a ball with 
linseed oil. Give from a scruple to half a -drachm, according 
to the state of the subject. It acts more speedily than aloes, 
but causes more debility. Linseed oil is uncertain, but safe 
in doses from a pound to a pound and a half. It leaves the 
horse in very good condition. 

POULTICES. 

Few horsemen are aware of the value of these simple pre- 
parations, in abating inflammation and in relieving pain, 
cleansing wounds, and causing them to heal. They are the 
best kinds of fomentations ; they continue longer and keep the 
pores open. In all inflammations of the foot they are very 
beneficial, and in cases of contractions. A poultice that re- 
tains the heat and moisture longest is the best. They will 
relieve swellings, take out the soreness from the pores, and 
draw out the unnatural substances. Linseed meal makes the 
best poultice ; it will hasten any tumor that it is necessary to 
open, and cleanse any old one, causing a healthy discharge, 
where it is offensive. But in this case — where the ulcer 
smells badly — add two ounces of pulverized charcoal, or chlo- 
ride of lime — half an ounce to one pound of meal. This is 
good to use in grease or cracked heel. 

A poultice should never be put on tight. Carrots are very 
good, mashed fine, after boiling soft. The coal may be used 
in this also, where the parts smell offensively. 

WIND GALLS. 

These appear oftener on the hind than on the fore-legs. It 
is a filling in of a mucous fluid in bags or sacks. It is caused 
by undue pressure from violent action, and by straining the 
tendon. These bags inflame, and fill larger and harder ; 
they always form about the joint, as so many tendons concen- 
trate there. Very few horses are perfectly free from them. 
At first they may cause lameness, but, in the majority of cases, 



76 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

they do not. It lias been thought that these bags were filled 
with wind, and, in some cases, they have been opened, but 
this causes inflammation, and would lame the horse. The 
way to treat them is with a powerful blister directly on 
them, and then bandage ; after the blister is formed you must 
bathe it in some astringent. A decoction of oak bark is 
good. By this treatment the mucous is taken up by the ab- 
sorbents, and you will have a cure. You must be very care- 
ful in driving for several days. 

THE ACTION OF THE KIDNEYS ON THE BLOOD. 

The blood contains a great quantity of watery fluid, unne- 
cessary for the nutriment or repair of the frame. There also 
mingles with it matter which would become noxious if al- 
lowed to accumulate too much. The kidneys are actually 
employed in separating these fluids,, and in carrying off a 
substance, which, as an ingredient in the urine, is called the 
urea, and consists of what would be poisonous to the animal 
if remaining. The kidneys are two large glandular bodies 
placed under the loins, very much the shape of a kidney 
bean. The right kidney is forward under the liver ; the left 
is back by the stomach and spleen. A large artery runs to 
each, and carries about one-sixth part of the whole blood that 
circulates through the frame. It divides into numberless lit- 
tle branches, most complicated, and coiled upon each other. 
The blood has waste parts, which, if allowed to remain, would 
be very injurious ; and these must be separated from it. 

The fluid separated varies materially in quantity and com- 
position, even during health — more so in the horse than any 
other animal ; and there is no organ so much under our con- 
trol as the kidneys. 

Diuretics are the most useful medicines, and, at the same 
time, the most injurious if improperly used. 

In fevers, and in inflamm ation generally, for diuretic, use 
nitre and digitails, on account of their sedative effects. 
They stimulate the kidneys to separate more than the usual 
quantity of water from the blood, and lessen the quantity 
of the latter. The object in ihis is to reduce the circulation, 
and thus ease the heart in its labor by calming the excite- 
ment. An overflow of blood gives quicker action to the 
heart, and causes the heating you will notice in lung fever. 
Diuretics lessen the blood, and give more perfect control 
over the heart. 

In cases were the legs are sw elled, the absorbents set to 
work and take up, and pour in ho the circulation, the fluid 
which has been effused into them . 



. THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 77 

The legs of some horses cannot be rendered fine, nor kept 
so, without the use of diuretics ; nor can what is called 
grease heel — frequently connected with these swellings, yet 
cured without the use of them, always let the horse have 
plenty of tepid water — the more the better. You must 
always be careful not to keep him too warm ; for if he sweats 
the medicine, instead of stimulating the kidneys, passes off 
in perspiration. 

ANTIMONY. 

There are several valuable preparations of this. The 
black sulphuret of antimony, a compound of sulphur and 
antimony, is a good alterative. It is given with more sul- 
phur, and with nitre, in varying doses, according to the dis- 
ease, and the slow and rapid effect to be produced. Txie dose 
if you expect to continue it, should be at the most, four 
drachms. It should never be bought in powder, whatever 
may be the trouble to pulverize it, for it is frequently adul- 
terated with lead, magnesia, forgedust, and arsenic. 

SWEENY. 

The disease is on the side of the shoulder. The horse 
suffering from it will be quite lame, and will stand with one 
foot before the other ; or if it is both shoulders, he will 
change from one to the other. The use of the shoulder is 
sluggish, and in breaking he will drag the foot, instead of 
raising it from the ground. It is caused by a strain or 
bruise, or by favoring the foot when diseased in some other 
part. 

The membrane or muscle of the shoulder will shrink 
much. Where the horse has not been lame long enough to 
know how to ease himself by standing, you can easily tell 
what the trouble is by pressing with the thumb upon the 
muscle, which may be shrunk but a little, yet when you 
press the point affected, he will shrink from the touch. 

Cure. — The only way this can be cured is by a seaton or 
rowell. The object of this is to create inflammation of the 
membrane. This seaton in these diseases should be from 
five to fifteen inches in length. The best article to use for it 
is tarred riggiDg rope ; this should be turned every day for 
from two to three weeks. To insert this, you must make an 
incision on the top through the skin and the membrane un- 
der the skin ; the same at the bottom. Procure a long, thin 
iron needle, with a large eye, and thread with strong twine, 
to which fasten the rowell ; run the needle through the two 
openings, drawing the rowell through, and then tie, leaving 



18 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

eight inches slack to tie with. In some cases it will be ne- 
cessary to wet the rowell with oil of turpentine or tincture of 
cantharides — either will do. Bathe the shoulder every day 
with as warm water as he can bear. 

If it has the desired effect, it will discharge freely. This 
will relax and loosen up the membrane, and make the parts 
fill out smooth. Keep clean by soft water and soap, so that 
the discharge will not remove the hair. If you apply grease 
on the hair under the cut, it will prevent the hair from coming 
off. 

HIDE BOUND. 

This is not so much a shrinking of the fatty substance be- 
tween the skin and the muscles, as it is an alteration of the 
skin itself. It is a drying up of the oily moisture of the 
skin ; it thus becomes dry and hard, the scales to the cuticle 
no longer yield to the skin, but separating in every direction, 
turns the hair and gives it a staring rough look, which is an 
indication that the horse is out of condition. The vessels of 
the skin and bowels, as well as the stomach, are deranged. 
It is a symptom of disease of the digestive organs. 

At first, give a bran mash, and, if it can be had, sassafras 
tea. But in severe cases use levigated antimony two drachms, 
nitre three .drachms, sulphur five drachms — give every night 
in a mash. The antimony acts on the skin, the sulphur on 
the bowels, and the nitre on the urinary organs. Rub him 
and give him warm clothing. The skin will soon become 
loose, and the horse be in condition again. 

COUGH, 

Use elecompaine roots, horehound and smartweed with 
six red pepper pods to two ounces of ginger root ; boil till all 
the strength is extracted, then strain through flannel ; add 
two quarts of molasses to every gallon of this extract, and 
boil all together for half an hour. Give one gill twice a day. 
Use an ox horn, or a crooked tin horn. Raise the head, and 
draw the tongue out on the left side ; put the small end of 
the horn on the roots of the tongue, and empty the contents ; 
then let go the tongue. Swab the throat every night with 
this mixture, using a whalebone with linen wrapped on the 
end. This is a sure cure for coughs. 

Among all diseases to which this noble creature is subject, 
none has given more perplexity to Farriers than a settled 
Cough ; indeed, it too often defies all the attempts of art, 
and the horse frequently becomes A&thmatical, or Brohen- 
tviyided. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 79 



FOR RESTORING TTATR TO GALLED SPOTS ON HORSES. 

Take one pound red clover blossoms and six quarts of 
water, simmer to a tliick syrup — then add sufficient barbary 
tallow to make a paste. This form is the best ointment for 
this purpose extant. 

FOR SPAVTN. 

Five ozs. euphorbium ; 2 ozs. Spanish flies, (fine ;) 1 oz ; 
iodine, dissolve with alcohol ; h oz. red precipitate ; 1 oz. 
corosive sublimate ; h oz. quicksilver ; 6 ozs. hog's lard ; 6 
ozs. white turpentine ; i lb. verdigris. Melt the lard and the 
turpentine together, then while hot add all together. Mix 
well ; when cold, fit for use. Rub it in thoroughly on the 
spavin every day for three days, then wash clean with soap- 
suds ; omit for three days, and then repeat for three days 
again, and so on until a perfect cure is produced. Should it 
blister, use it more cautiously. 

PREPARATION FOR BLOOD SPAVIN. 

One half pound blood-root, 1 qt. alcohol, 2 oz. of tannin, 
and a quarter of a pound of alum. — Mix and let it stand, 
shaking it several times a day, till the strength is all in the 
alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing it in with 
the hand. 

CURE FOR HEAVES. 

Take smart weed, steep it in boiling water till the strength 
is all out ; give one quart every day mixed with oran or 
shorts, for eight or ten days. Give green or cut up feed, wet 
with water during the operation, and it will cure. 

ANTI SPASMODICS. 

There are but few of these, and the horse is subject to but 
few spasmodic diseases. Opium is the best for general 
effect and that exerted particularly on lock-jaw, the oil of 
turpentine as a specific for spasms of the bowels. 

ANTI-SPASMODIC TINCTURE FOB, MAN OR HORSE. 

Oil cajeput 1 oz. oil cloves 1 oz. oil peppermint 1 oz. Oil 
anise 1 oz. alcohol 1 quart. Mix all together and bottle for 
use. Dose for a horse, 1 oz. every fifteen minutes in a little 
whiskey and hot water, sweeten with molasses, continue 
until relieved. Dose for a man, one teaspoonful. 

WORMS EN THE HOR8E, HOW TREATED. 

There are several kinds of worms in the intestines, and 



80 THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. 

they are hurtful only when in large quantities. The long 
white worm resembles the common earthworm, and is from 
six to ten inches long. They are in the small intestines, and, 
when in large numbers, consume much of the nutritive part 
of the food, or the mucous of the bowels. Then the smaller 
and darker colored worm, called the needle worm, in the 
large intestines. In many cases they descend into the rectum 
in large quantities ; they irritate the fundament, and annoy 
the horse. This is the trouble when he rubs his tail very 
much. 

The horse shows this disease by falling off in flesh ; his 
hide will be tight, and the hair looks bad and sets forward ; 
the eye has a dull look, and at times he will scringe and 
shrink down ; he sometimes passes worms, and he cannot be 
kept in condition. 

Cure. — One ounce of aloes dissolved in warm water, and 
given as an injection. This will succeed in the most of 
cases. If not give one pint of neatsfoot oil as a drench, and 
one pint as an injection. These will not fail. Give mashes 
after this for a few days. 

It is well known that horses which have many worms can 
never thrive, or carry much flesh. If the breeding of theso 
vermin were prevented, it would add much to the strength 
of the horse ; and it might be done by giving him a decoction 
of bitter herbs, such as wormwood, in Spring. It may be 
boiled, or steeped in hot water, and given two or three times 
a week. Or a decoction of wormwood, buck-bean, gentian 
root, and camomile flowers, of each a large handful, boiled 
in a sufficient quantity of water, and given will answer the 
end. 

ANODYNES. 

Of these there is but one in horse practice. Opium is the 
only 'drug that will lull pain. It also acts as an astringent, in, 
doses of one, two and three drachms. 

FARCY, ITS TREATMENT. 

When the Farcy attacks only one part of a horse, and that 
where the blood-vessels are small, it may be easily cured ; but 
when the plate vein is affected and turns corded, and espe- 
cially when the crural veins, withinside the thigh, are in that 
condition, the cure is very difficult, and the creature is rarely 
fit for any thing but the lowest work after it. 

Bathe the legs every night in hot water, into which put a 
shovel of hot wood ashes, making a weak ley. When he re- 
gains his appetite, be very careful in feeding. Give him 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 81 

mashes at least twice a day, until he gets his strength , then 
give green food, if possible. 

In very severe cases of farcy, internal medicines will be 
necessary. Use of corrosive sublimate, ten grains — increased 
to a scruple with two drachms of gentian, and one of ginger ; 
repeat morning and night, until the ulcers disappear. 

PLEURISY, HOW TO BE TREATED. 

This is an attack of the membrane covering the lungs, 
and the lining of the chest, called the " pleura." The symp- 
toms are nearly the same as in inflammation of the lungs. 
The horse has no disposition to lie down or to move about ; 
the neck will be the same as in lung fever ; nostrils distend- 
ed, and the membrane of the nose very red ; he breathes 
very hard, with a kind of grunt ; the legs will be cold, and 
he will have a hard full pulse. The blood, however, is not 
obstructed in its passage through the lungs. By pressing 
on his side, he will give symptoms of pain in a very decided 
grunt. 

Cure. — Blister both sides of the chest, and bathe the legs 
in hot water. Or boil bran, and then put an old pantaloon 
leg on over his, and fill in around with hot bran ; this will 
get up a circulation in the extremities. Then give one and 
a half drachms emetic tartar, two drachms digitails, three 
drachms nitre. Keep well covered with ws n clothing. 
Use one ounce of cream tartar in two quarts of tepid water, 
for a drink. Be sure to keep the legs warm by hot applica- 
tions and bandages. Use these medicines until a cure is 
effected. 

STAGGERS. 

There is but little of this disease in the Northern States, 
but it exists to a great extent in all the Southern. The food 
is the principal cause ; there is a great quantity of diseased 
corn used, and too much of any kind is usually given ; then 
as much water as he will drink after it, which generates an 
unhealthy gas in the stomach, and causes distention ; the 
blood is inflamed, and rushes to the head, and the brain is 
somewhat inflamed. The horse staggers about, or becomes 
sluggish, and stands with head down ; the eyes look glassy : 
in some cases, he will rear, and fall back, or run ; he will not 
eat, but hold the hay in his mouth, and then drops it ; he 
sweats profusely, and in a short time will fall and die. 

Cure. — First, physic with one ounce of aloes dissolved in 
warm water, and given as drench ; in one hour, give half an 
ounce more of the aloes, and continue this until it operates.. 
As soon as the first aloes is given blister the head with a 



82 the money-maker's manual. 

strong fly blister apply this over the brain, from below the 
ear, nearly down to the eye ; then bathe the legs with as hot 
water, as you can use, and bandage them with flannel ; keep 
them aswarm as possible. Then give one drachm of digitails, 
one and a half of emetic tartar, and three drachm sof nitre. 
If it is to be repeated, use half of the above amount in three 
hours. Then if he "has any disposition to eat, give bran 
mash, with one table-spoon full of pulverized resin ; use this 
for a week as he recovers, and feed and work lightly until he 
regains his strength. If he is bound up, it may be necessary 
to use injections, which are always beneficial. 

WARBLES, SITFASTS AND SADDLE GALLS. 

These are caused in many cases by using a blanket under 
the saddle in hot weather, thus scalding the back, and caus- 
ing these little lamps to appear ; and when they ulcerate, 
they are called " si 4 tfnsts." The ulcer has a calloused spot in 
the center. When they first make their appearance, rest 
will remove them ; but if the horse is to be used, you must 
remove the stuffing from the pad of the saddle, that the 
bearing may not come on the ulcer. Bathe in strong salt 
water, to remove the enlargement ; but if it does not effect 
this, and it is really a sitfast, apply a blister ; this will dis- 
solve it ; then apply the resin and honey ointment to heal it. 
A horse with high withers, long back, and broad loins, will 
make the best saddle nag, and carry his rider with ease. In 
hot weather, it is a good practice to bathe the back with 
salt water, when the saddle is removed at noon and night. 

FOR INFLxiMMATTON OF THE LUNGS IN A HORSE. 

First a thorough bleeding, then would give tincture vera- 
trum varide, half an ounce ; laudanum, four ounces ; tincture 
aconite, quarter of an ounce ; shake well together, and give a 
half tablespoonful every three or four hours, in some water, 
well sweetened ; and should it not bring down the pulse the 
dose can be gradually increased to a tablespoonful, and soon 
as the horse recovers so as to eat and lie down naturally, 
would keep him on hay alone perhaps with a few carrots or 
potatoes, and daily give a bran mash with saltpetre, crude 
antimony and sulphur for ten or fifteen days, and you will 
prevent dropsy of the chest, which is a sequel of that disease. 

FOR COLIC IN HORSES. 

Sulphur ether, one pint ; aromatic spirits ammonia, one 
pint ; sweet spirits nitre, two pints ; opium quarter of pound ; 
asafoetida, (pure) half pound ; camphor, half pound ; put in a 



THE MONET-MAKERS MANUAL. 83 

large bottle, let stand fourteen days, with frequent shaking, 
and it will be fit for use. Dose two ounces every two, three 
or four hours, until the horse is relieved. Should be given 
in water well sweetened. 

Another Remedy. — One ounce laudanum ; one ounco 
sweet spirits of nitre ; one ounce tincture asafoetida, one ta- 
blespoonful capsicum ; from two to three ounces carbonate 
soda ; half pint whiskey ; half pint water. Mix and give at 
one dose, and if not better in twenty five minutes, repeat 
half dose. 

STOPPAGE OF WATER, HOW TREATED. 

This disease in most cases is caused by allowing the horse 
to become foul, and what is called a beam thereby forms in 
the end of the penis. The horse will stand and weave, or 
stretch out ; then paw and kick his belly with his hind legs ; 
he may drop down in harness, and sometimes break out in a 
profuse sweat. The only thing to be done in this case is to 
draw his yard carefully, and run the finger around the head, 
where you will find two or three hard substances ; withdraw 
them and wash the sheath clean, and grease it with lard. 

In some cases, it originates from contraction of the mus- 
cle of the loins, or inaction of the kidneys. To cure this, 
bathe the loines with hot water for half an hour ; then bathe 
with hot vinegar and pepper-sauce ; then cover the loins 
with three or four thicknesses of blankets. Then mix of 
turpentine one ounce, sweet spirits of nitre two ounces, and 
give as a drink. Give a bran mash, with one table-spoonful 
of resin in it, every day for a week, and the cure is complete. 

COLIC OR CHOLERA IN MULES. 

This appears to be a prevalent disease on the plantations, 
and is brought on by giving too much food and water at one 
time, and then immediately putting them to work. The 
hard work retards digestion, and a gas is generated from the 
food and water, which fills the stomach and bowels, and sets 
the bots at work. The gas would kill the bot, and, to save 
himself, he bores into the membrane of the stomach, or tries 
to get out at the meat-pipe, or by the passage between the 
stomachs. They will thus stop up the passages, sometimes, 
and kill the animal. But if the passages are open, the gas 
will pass into the bowels, and then the disease is colic. He 
will be much swollen and distended, breathe short and hard, 
and will fall or lay down, and get up ; ears will lop over on 
each side, and eyes look dull and heavy. When the mule is 
first taken, take him out of the stable and keep him as still 



84 the money-maker's manual. 

as possible, and, in the majority of cases, he will recover 
without the use of medicine. 

Cure. — If he does not thus get over it, take one ounce 
laudanum, one ounce ether, two table-spoonfulls of soda, two 
drachms of peppermint ; put with half pint hot gin, and 
give as a drench. Then give injections of one ounce of aloes 
dissolved in warm water. This is an effectual cure. 

COLTS BROUGHT UP BY HAND. 

It is a frequent remark, that cosset colts, are worse to break 
than those that have never been handled up to two or three 
years old. The reason is that they are spoiled by petting them, 
and allowing them to do as they please. When playing 
with colts, you should always make them do as you wish, 
and then, if they are learned to do as you will in playing, 
they will not become stubborn when you wish them to work. 
The great object in laying the horse down to make him 
understand that we can do as we please with him, and then 
he sees there is no use resenting, and we have gained our 
point. After this, he obeys without difficulty, and that stub- 
born, willful feeling is subdued. You may then teach him 
anything you please. 

VEGETABLE CAUSTIC. 

Make a strong ley of hickory or oak ashes, put into an iron 
kettle and evaporate to the consistency of thin molasses ; 
then remove into a sand bath, and continue the evaporation 
to the consistency of honey. Keep it in a grand stopped glass 
jar. 

This caustic is very valuable in fistulas, cancers, scrofulas 
and indolent ulcers, particularly where there are sinuses ne- 
crosis (or decay of bone) and in all cases where there is proud 
flesh, and also to excite a healthy action of the parts. It re- 
moves fungous flesh without exciting inflammation, and acts 
but little except on spongy or soft flesh. 

TO CURE WARTS. 

Take corrosive sublimate and red precipitate, powdered 
and mixed equal parts ; will cure the worst wart in the 
world on horses or cattle. 

If the wart is large and loose, tie a fine strong cord around 
it close to the skin. In a short time the wart will come off, 
then apply the powder until the wart is eaten down below 
the skin, then wash off and rub on a little sweet oil, and it 
will soon heal over. If the wart is dry, scratch it with a pin 
or point of a knife until it bleeds, then rub on the powuer. 



THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. *S> 

It will make a dry scab ; pick off the scab and put on the 
powder again until it is all eaten off. 

HOOF MEDICINE. 

Take Rosin, four ounces ; beeswax, five ounces ; lard, two 
pounds ; Melt together ; pour it into a pot, add three ounces 
turpentine ; two ounces finely pulverized verdigris ; one 
pound tallow ; stir all until it gets cold. This is one of the 
best medicines for the hoof ever used. It is good for corks 
or bruises of the foot. 

TO RESTORE THE APPETITE. 

Use of pulverized carraway seeds and bruised raisins, four 
ounces each, of ginger and palm oil, two ounces each. Al- 
ways use twice as much of the first as of the last, in whatev- 
er quantity you wish to make it. Give a small ball once a 
day until the appetite is restored ; use mashes at the same 
time. 

FOR STOPPAGE OF THE BOWELS. 

Take two quarts of soft fresh horse manure, add one quart 
of boiling hot water, then strain through a common cloth 
slrainer ; give one pint as a drench. This will not fail for 
man or beast ; for a man, dose one table-spoonful every hour 
until it acts. 

SALVE FOR MAN OR HORSE. 

For all kinds of old sores, use honey and rosin, melted to- 
gether ; add lard enough to make a paste ; when cool, it is 
fit for use. There is no salve better than this ; its medicinal 
qualities are excellent. 

TO SOFTEN THE FEET. 

Spirits of tar, two ounces ; fish oil, four ounces. This is 
very penetrating, to use where the feet are hard and brittle. 
Rub it in with a brush upon the crust and sole every night. 

STIFLE. 

This is a strain of the stifle muscles only ; the stifle joint 
never gets out ; if it should, the horse would be worthless. 
The stifle shoe should never be used. 

Cure. — Take the whites of six eggs, and two ounces of 
alum, pulverized ; mix well together, and rub on the stifle 
muscles ; dry with a hot iron. One application will probably 
be sufficient. ■ 



80 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

2. — One ounce of sugar lead ; one pint of alcohol ; mix, and 
apply three or four times a day, until a cure is effected. 

TONICS. 

Where it is necessary to use tonics, gentian is one of the 
best vegetables, especially in chronic debility. It is best, 
united with cammomile and ginger. Gentian,* four drachms ; 
cammomile, two drachms : ginger, one drachm ; give in 
balls. 

MERCURIAL OINTMENT. 

Of quicksilver, one ounce ; lard, three ounces ; stir until 
there are no globules to be seen. This is used sometimes in 
preparing sprains and spavins for the regular spavin oint- 
ment, rubbed on once a day, for .two or three days, before 
using the ointment. 

For all splints, bruises, and swelling of the limbs, use 
thorough wort and mullen, steeped and applied as hot as 
possible, with bandages. 

SPAVIN AND RINGBONE. 

Cantharides, four ounces ; origanum, two ounces ; sulphate 
of zinc, one ounce ; Venice turpentine, three ounces ; murat. 
cinct iron, two ounces : verdigris, three ounces ; oil vitriol, 
two ounces ; fresh lard, one pound. Shave the hair from the 
part diseased, and rub the parts with the medicine. You 
must use your own j udgment in using this medicine ; that is 
in the length of time necessary to remove the callus. It 
must be used every other day ; this will dissolve the ossified 
substance, and ooze it out. When you see the lump is di- 
minished enough, then use the same astringent as I have di- 
rected in the other cure, that is, white oak bark aud alum ; 
a quarter pound to a half gallon of bark juice, boiled down 
to a strong decoction. Use morning and evening. 

SPAVIN AND RINGBONE RECEIPT. 

The first-named disease comes at the lower part of thb 
gambrel joint. It is caused by a strain or bruise — either 
will cause it ; this opens the pores, and causes the substance 
to concentrate at one place, and forms in a gris tly or bony 
sub? rnce, and causes the joint to become stiff and sore. 
The horse sometimes becomes lame before enlargement is 
perceivable. In some cases it will continue to grow for two 
years ; it will then become a hard bone, The enlargement 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 87 

at this stage, cannot be removed — you may kill the disease, 
and kill the lameness. The great object with this disease is 
stop the leakage. There has nothing been used as an astrin- 
gent ; when by removing the lump, without the astringent, 
it leaves the parts loose and open, but if used, it closes and 
stops the pores ; then, by letting the horse stand until it 
heaves, becomes firm. 

Cure. — Four ounces green euphorbium. fine ; one ounce 
Spanish flies, pulverized ; four ounces corrosive sublimate ; 
four, ounces red precipitate ; six ounces white pine turpen- 
tine ; four ounces iodine ; six ounces lard ; melt the lard and 
turpentine together ; after it is nearly cold, add the other 
articles, and stir until it is cold ; it is then ready for use. 

Then rub the enlargement until it is warm ; then rub on 
the ointment, and let it remain for twenty- four hour ; then 
take lard, and rub upon it until all of the ointment is taken 
out. Let it remain one day, then apply the medicine again ; 
keep this up until the enlargement is gone ; then use oak 
bark as an astringent to bathe it in, and bandage until well, 
keeping it well saturated with the oak bark water. 

You may use the same ointment for ' thorough-pin ;" after 
it is blistered sufficiently deep, use the oak bark and bandage 
until healed. The same for blood spavin and wind puffs. It 
will be necessary to use a pad under the bandage in " thor- 
ough-pin," to make it bear evenly. 

Keep the horse quiet, while using these medicines and on 
a low diet. 

HOW TO CLEAN AND OIL HABNESS. 

First take the harness apart, having each strap and piece by 
itself; then wash it in warm soap-suds. When cleaned, 
black every part with the following dye : one ounce extract 
logwood, twelve grains bichromate of potash, both pounded 
fine ; when put into two quarts of boiling rain water, and 
stir until all is dissolved. When cool, it may be used. You 
can bottle and keep for future use if you wish. It may be 
applied with a shoe-brush, or anything else convenient. 
When the dye has struck in, you may oil each part with 
neats foot oil, applied with a paint-brush, or anything conve- 
nient. For second oiling use one third castor oil, and two- 
thirds neats foot oil mixed. A few hours after, wipe clean 
with a woolen cloth, which gives the harness a glossy appear- 
ance. 

The preparation does not injure the leather or stitching ; 
makes it soft and pliable, and obviates the necessity of oiling 
as often as is necessary by the ordinary method. 



SO THE MONEY-MAKER S MANUAL. 

STRENGTH OF FOOD USED FOR HORSES. 

It will, perhaps, be interesting to the horseman and farrier 
to know how much nutritive matter is contained in the 
different kinds of food given the horse. The quantity can- 
not be considered as expressing the actual value of each, 
because other circumstances beside the simple quantity of 
nutriment seem to influence their effect in supporting the 
strength and condition of the horse. Yet many a useful 
hint may be learned when the farmer looks over the produce 
of his soil. The list is taken from Sir Humphrey Davy's 
Agricultural Chemistry : 



PARTS 


of 


contain 


PARTS 


of nutritive matter. 


1000 


" 


wheat 


955 


" " 


« 


tt 


barley 
oats 


950 

744 


it it 

<( tt 


<< 


tt 


peas 
beans 


573 
570 


tt tt 


tt 


tt 

tt 


potatoes 
red-beets 


230 
148 


tt it 
it tt 


tt 


"« 


parsnips 
carrots 


99 

98 


tt tt 
tt tt 



Of the grasses, 1000 parts of the meadow catstail contains, 
at the time of seeding, 98 parts of nutritive matter ; narrow- 
leaved meadow grass in seed, and sweet-scented soft grass in 
flower, 95 ; narrow leaved and flat-stalked meadow grass in 
flower, fertile meadow grass in seed, and talefescue in flower 
93 ; creeping soft grass in flower, 78 ; common turnips, 42 ; 
long-rooted clover, 39 ; white clover 32 ; and lucerne, 23. 

TO CURE CRIBBING. 

If caused by irritation of the teeth growing too near to- 
gether, saw between the upper and lower front teeth. If a 
simple habit, arrange the stall so as to make it impossible for 
him to crib. This you can do by making the stall plain, 
with a simple box manger in front, rather low, but extending 
the whole width of the stall. Immediately over the front 
edge of this plain box manger, hang a roller of about six or 
seven inches in diameter, on pivots, which must be so ar- 
ranged that it will turn easily. This roller, extending clear 
across the manger, offers the only means within reach on 
which to crib. The horse, in cribbing, will press the front 
teeth firmly upon this roller, pulling down and towards 
him, which causes the roller to turn from under his mouth, 
and he is defeated in his efforts. There is no trouble in 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 89 

breaking a young horse of this habit by this means. A very 
good way is to feed a horse from a basket hung loosely by 
a cord to something overhead. The roller, properly adjust- 
ed, is, however, much the best means. 

TO PREVENT HORSES JUMPING. 

Have a good firm strap halter made that will fit the horse 
nicely, with a wide strap stitched to each side, so as to come 
over the eyes. Cut holes in this strap over each eye ; over 
these eye-holes put fine wire-cloth, supported nicely by wires 
so that it will not possibly touch the eyes. Before a horse 
attempts jumping over a fence, he will put his head over to 
calculate upon the height and distance he is about to jump ; 
but by looking through this wire-cloth everything is so mag- 
nified in appearance, that he is disconcerted in his efforts to 
do so, and is afraid to jump. 

BOTS, OR GRUBS. 

There are a great many horses lost with this disease. It 
is impossible to put anyting down a horse to kill a bot, that 
would not kill the horse. I will take what the most of far- 
riers will prescribe for this disease, and kill any horse in 
three or four days, and I will give you reasons for it. First, 
a bot never works when the stomach is in order ; as soon as 
the gasses of the stomach becomes deranged, the bot goes to 
work — and you can derange the stomach by giving strong 
medicine. The bot goes to work in the maw ; after he gets 
worked in a short distance, you can put nothing there that 
he can taste, without letting loose from the maw ; and by 
giving strong medicine, anything that has any tendency to 
burn or hurt the bot, he would work into the maw to get 
rid of the medicine ; and if you put any sweets down, the 
bot could not eat it, because his head is in. 

Now, I will give you a sure and positive cure for this dis- 
ease. Take a bucket half full of hot water ; then procure 
a quart bottle ; set the bottle down in the hot water ; then 
bleed the horse in the neck vein, and let the blood run into 
the bottle. When full, drench the horse with this hot 
blood. The blood goes to the maw so much hotter than the 
natural stomach, that the bot becomes relaxed, and lets 
loose. He then sucks his fill of this sweet blood, and passes 
off from the horse. 

QUINSY. 

The symptoms of this disease are something like inflam- 
mation of the lungs — difficulty of breathing, eyes inflamed, 
nostrils distended, breath quick and short ; he stands with 



90 THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. 

his head down, and has no disposition to move about, and 
you will hear a rattling in the throat, caused by an accumu- 
lation of mucous matter in the glotis or throttle, which be- 
comes swollen so as to be perceivable on the outside of the 
throat. A horse with this disease sometimes has an inclina- 
tion to eat, but with the lung fever — never. Quinsy is en- 
tirely an affection of the glands of the head and throat, dis- 
tinct from the lungs. 

Cure — Take one ounce pulverized aloes, to one half ounce 
oil of sassafras, mix with a little flour to make it thick, and 
then make into balls the size of a black walnut, or the yolk 
of an egg — this quantity is for a dose. Open the mouth, pull 
out the tongue, put the ball on the roots of the tongue; this 
is the easiest way to give the medicine. A thick heavy blis- 
ter should be drawn on the throat, and a mustard or fly 
poultice, to draw the inflammation to the surface. Bathe 
the limbs with hot water, and bandage them from the hoof 
to the knee ; bathe three or four times a day. When he has 
a disposition to eat, give a mash of scalded wheat bran — 
two quarts twice a day. Give no hay or grain for three or 
four days ; then if he breathes easy you can increase the 
feed. Keep the horse from the wind, and well blanketed. 

DISTEMPER, 

This is a disease that all colts are liable to ; and, if taken 
in time, there will be no danger of swelling in the throat. 
This frequently causes thick wind. By distempers break- 
ing in the throat, it becomes a callous where the opening in 
the throat was, then by checking the horse up there is not 
room for the wind, and he wheezes ; but as soon as he stops, 
he breathes easy again. When this disease first makes its 
appearance, bleed freely from the neck vein ; then give from 
a half to one pint of linseed oil, with three drachms of sassa- 
fras oil ; this thins and purifies the blood. 

NICKING. 

There are two different modes of nicking ; I will give the 
best and easiest. To make a horse carry an elegant tail is 
attended with some uncertainty. It much depends upon 
the spirit, disposition, form and vigor of the bone of the tail, 
&c, &c. A horse of good spirits, tolerable shape, and a 
small bone in the tail, can be made to carry an elegant tail 
with the greatest ease, particularly if he carries a tolerable 
natural tail ; but a dull, leather-headed, flop-eared horse, 
with a remarkably large bone in the tail, will set you a task, 
although you may break the bone in two or three places. In- 
deed, there is so much difference in horses, that some judg. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 01 

ment must be exercised about the best mode to be adopted 
for the accomplishment of the object in view. 

Nothing can more disfigure the appearance of a horse than 
to be half nicked. The form of the tail, when this unfortu- 
nately happens, departs from the simplicity of nature, and 
never attains the elegance of art. 

I shall now proceed to the best method of nicking every 
description of horfe, and which, if well attended to, will 
seldom or never fail to succeed. The horse should be con- 
fined in stocks fitted for that purpose. The tail then should 
be plaited up, and clubbed at the end, turned over a small 
stick, and securely tied with a string. Being provided with 
a knife made for that purpose, turn the tail up within a di- 
rect line with the back ; commence the operation by making 
an incision about one inch from the rump close to the hair ; 
cut the cords in one place on each side, leaving an incision 
only the size of the knife-blade ; be very careful not to touch 
the bone with the knife, for if so, it would create inflamma- 
tion, and the hair would come out. Great pains should be 
taken to have the weights equal, in order to keep the tail in 
a perpendicular direction, and prevent it from turning to 
either side during the time of healing, as a horse that carries 
his tail to one side, instead of being elegantly nicked, is 
ruined. 

The horse many times carries a crooked tail before he has 
been nicked. To straighten the tail, cut the top cord — the 
under cord depresses the tail, and the top one raises it. 
When standing, the tail is straight ; you will see at once that 
it is the top cord. In cutting the cord to straighten, cut the 
long cord, and the short cord will pass by on a lap, and grow 
together, leaving the tail as strong as ever. Pulling is not 
required in straightening the tail. 

SCOURS. 

This is a disease which requires no description — you will 
know it when it comes. It is the same as cholera in a man, 
but is very easy to manage. In a warm climate it is very 
dangerous, as two-thirds of the horses taken with it, die in 
three or four days. 

Cuke. — Boil red or white oak bark to a strong ooze ; put 
two tablespoonfuls of cream of tartar, to one quart of this 
decoction; give to drink, or as a drench — then use the bark 
water for injection. Keep this up untih the purging is 
stopped, then give a mash of scalded wheat bran twice a day. 
Give no hay or grain, or you will cause a relapse. He will 



92 the money-maker's manual. 

have a good appetite, but be very careful for several days, 
and when you commence feeding, feed very light. A positive 
cure, 

BLIND STAGGERS. 

The cause of this disease is too much food and water. In 
giving as much as a horse can eat, then give as much water 
as he will drink, in driving, the grain becomes swollen and 
the stomach distended by undigested food. The distention 
of the stomach prevents the passage of the blood, which 
causes it to flow to the head, and makes him crazy and blind. 
Sometimes he will fall back ; at other times run , and is apt 
to run off from a bluff or against any object that may be in 
his way. 

Cure. — If the disease is in its worst stages, split the skin 
of the forehead and fill with salt and black pepper ; then, if 
you can get sassafras roots, boil to a tea ; give one gallon 
twice a day, bleed one gallon from the neck vein. Feed light 
with bran mash ; do not use any very hearty food for two 
weeks. This is a sure cure. 

FOR WEAKNESS ACROSS THE LOINS. 

This originates many times from a stoppage of water. It 
is not always what would be called gravel, it may be from 
contraction of the muscles across the loins. The more the 
horse strains, the more contraction it would cause. He be- 
comes stiff, and it is difficult for him to move his hind parts. 

Cure. — Give one ounce of pulverized aloes ; one ounce 
sweet spirits of nitre ; one ounce oil sassafras. Give this as 
one dose, after making into small balls. Then bathe the 
loins with hot pepper sauce. Blanket the horse well, putting 
several thicknesses over the loins. As soon as he can stand, 
give two quarts bran mash, with one tablespoonful of pow- 
dered rosin. Give this for two or three days, and keep the 
loins as warm as possible. Also use a liniment, origanum, 
two ounces ; oil of sassafras, two ounces ; spirits of turpen- 
tine, two ounces well mixed together, and bathe the loins 
twice a day. 

STOCKED OR SWOLLEN LEGS. 

This is caused by sudden heats and colds. 

Cure. — Bathe the legs, from the hoof to the knee, in as 
hot water as he will bear, and then bandage them ; the hot 
water opens the pores, and thins the blood, that has become 
thick, and will not circulate well. Make a strong tea of sas- 
safras roots, and give it to drink. If not easily procured, 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 93 

give, as a purge, one pint of linseed or castor oil, half an 
ounce of oil of sassafras. Feed light, give bran mash with 
one tablespoonful of cream tartar, for a few nights. 

TO CURE HORSE DISTEMPER. 

If the glands of the neck are not swollen much, give haa 
of a three cent paper of smoking tobacco, morning and 
evening, in a warm bran mash, and give no hay, but a little 
fine cut straw, wet, with bran mixed in. If the glands of 
the neck are swollen, then apply a warm poultice made of 
wheat bran and hot vinegar, changing as often as the poul- 
tice gets dry, and be sure to get down all you can of flaxseed 
tea, or slippery elm tea will answer the same purpose ; and 
let this be his constant drink. Be cautious to keep the horse 
from taking cold, in any way, and keep on a blanket, and 
thus you will save many a noble animal. Be cautious never 
to bleed your horse during the horse distemper, or physic 
him any more than what you will be able to do with the 
warm bran mash. 

REMEDY FOR ROTS. 

Which will remove them in a few days : Take of oil of 
turpentine ; eight ounces ; alcohol one quart ; mix and bottle 
for use. Dose, five ounces in the horse's feed, once a day for 
eight days, and this will effectually remove the last vestige 
of the bots. 

FOR LNELAMED SWELLINGS, OR LAME SHOULDER. 

Equal parts oil of amber, oil of spike, camphor gum, 
ether. 

TO CURE HEAVES. 

Oil tar, 1 oz ; oil amber 1 oz. Mix, and give 15 or 20 
drops in feed, daily. 

PHYSIC BALL. 

Barbadoes aloes, 1 lb. ; syrup buckthorn, 3 ozs, cod liver oil, 
3 ozs. ; melt the whole and stir till cold. In winter, add a 
little water ; make into eighteen pills, and give one every 
four hours, or as much as will move the bowels. 

DIURETIC DROPS. 

That are reliable for stoppage of water, foul water, or in- 
flammation of the kidneys, in all cases. 

Take of sweet spirits of nitre, 4 ozs. ; balsam copavia, 2 



94 the money-maker's manual. 

ozs. ; oil juniper 2 ozs. ; spirits turpentine 2 ozs. ; guin cam- 
phor, pulverized, 1 oz ; mix all together, and shake well ; 
bottle and it is fit for use, for man or beast, under ah circum- 
stances where a diuretic is required. 

Dose : — For a horse, one ounce, in half a pint of milk 
once in six hours ; for a man, one teaspoonful, in a table- 
spoonful of milk once in six hours. Be sure to shake the 
ingredients up well, before turning out for use. 

COLIC. 

This is caused by giving too much feed and water, or by 
watering often on the road. The water reduces the juices 
of the stomach, disabling digestion, and causing the grain to 
swell, generates a gas in the stomach, which, passing into 
the bowels, causes the acute pain of Colic. He becomes 
restive, lies down, rolls about and gives many signs of pain. 
Many times the horse has bots and colic at the same time, 
the only difference in the symptoms being that in colic the 
ears are cold, and in bots they .are warm. 

Cure. — Take one and a half ounces of laudanum, one ounce 
ether, two table spoonfuls soda, in half pint of warm water ; 
give as a drench. Do not exercise the horse with this disease, 
as exercise causes the gases to move from one part of the 
bowels to another, each time causing pain ; therefore keep 
him as quiet as possible. 

FISTULA AND POLEVIL. 

These diseases are both of the same nature, caused by a 
bruise, and the other part becomes swollen, and a mattery 
substance forms in the flesh ; and, as the disease becomes 
seated, it fills in with pips and roots, and increases the in- 
flammation. When, this disease first makes its appearance, 
it can be driven away by blistering, and drawing the inflam- 
mation to one point ; but after it forms in roots, or pips, the 
only way of getting rid of it is to eat out or kill the roots of 
the disease. 

The most effectual way of doing this is to take of euphor- 
bium pulverized, one ounce ; Spanish flies pulverized one 
half ounce ; tincture of cantharides, one half ounce ; iodine, 
one ounce ; corrosive sublimate, one ounce ; red precipitate, 
one ounce ; white pine turpentine, one ounce and a half ; 
lard, one ounce and a half. Melt the lard and turpentine to- 
gether, and when it becomes blood warm, as it is cooling off, 
add the other articles. Use a large dish to mix them in, for 
when you put them together the mixture will foam ; stir un- 
til cool • it is then ready for use. If the sore has not broken, 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 95 

use it on the outside until you draw the disease to the sur- 
face. If it has broken — put the salve in the wound — it will 
eat out all of the diseased flesh. When you wish to heal the 
wound, wash clean with soap — then use as a salve, powdered 
rosin and honey — the best healing salve for horse flesh ever 
used. 

SCRATCHES. 

This is a disease' that effects great injury to the norse, if 
not checked in time. In many cases the legs become swollen 
to the gambrel, and finally calloused so that it would be im- 
possible ever to remove it ; but, if taken in time, it will be 
easily managed 

Cure. — First wash clean with soap and soft water ; then 
take pulverized verdigris and sprinkle on the outside — this 
will kill the bad flesh. This must be repeated for several 
days until it has a healthy appearance : then wash, and it 
will heal. 

There is another disease springing from the same, called 
Grease Heels. This will require something more powerful. 
Take the best potash pulverized ; this will take the bad flesh 
off very fast ; this should be applied until it has taken the 
diseased flesh off; then wash clean, and use rosin and honey 
as a salve. The horse should be thoroughly bled, and a pint 
of linseed oil, as a purge, should be given to cleanse the 
blood. 

SCRATCHES, OTHER CURE FOR. 

Hydrate of potasm, ten grains ; pulvd nutgall, half ounce ; 
white lead, half ounce ; pulvd. opium quarter ounce ; hog's 
lard quarter pound. 

Another Remedy. — One quart good vinegar ; half pound 
litharge. Mix and simmer down to half the quantity ; strain 
and apply. 

CURE FOR WIND GALLS. 

Olive oil, three ounces ; nitric acid, one ounce. Rubbed in 
as much daily, or every second or third day, as it will bear 
without starting the hair. 

CORNS, HOW TO CURE THEM. 

Corns are generally caused by the shoe being worn too 
long. They appear in the angle of the hoof near the heel. 
Cut the corn well down, but not to the quick ; fit the shoe 
so that it does not press upon the part. Then saturate well 
with pine sap or gum, which is found exhaling from pine 



96 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

trees when cut. Fill the part nicely with tow, and put on the 
shoe, remembering that the shoes must be so fitted as not to 
oblige the part to support but very slightly, if any, the 
weight of the horse. Horses with corns must be oftener and 
more carefully shod than those free from them. 

FOE, KICKS, BRUISES, CUTS, OR SWOLLEN LEGS. 

Bathe the swollen parts with hot water three times a day. 
As soon as you are through bathing bandage the leg, but not 
too light. Take off the bandage every time you bathe.- By 
using hot water it opens the pores, and leaves everything 
soft and pliable, entirely removes the swelling, and prevents 
it from becoming callused. If the cut is large, and a bad 
sore, use a salve made of pulverized resin and honey, which 
is the most healing of anything that can be used. 

Horses that cut themselves by interfering, and the pastern 
becomes swollen and sore, bathe with hot water ; it will 
keep it from enlarging, and will heal it up and leave the legs 
smooth. Liniments are very bad : usually they thicken the 
skin, and leave the parts affected, enlarged. But by bathing 
and bandaging it will leave the leg as smooth "as before cut. 

WEAK EYES. 

There is no such disease as hooks — it is only caused by in- 
flammation, which causes the washer of the eye to become 
swollen, and protrude out, and some say this is hooks — they 
never should be cut. By rowelling at the side of the eye, 
it will draw the inflammation from the eye to the surface, and 
cure the disease. Sometimes the eye becomes weak from 
wolf teeth ; these should be knocked off ; they will be found 
on the upper jaw. I would not advise the use of medicine 
in the eye — it will increase the inflammation. 

SPRUNG KNEES AND SPRING HALT. 

These diseases are both from one cause ; it is contraction 
of the muscle, caused by a strain, bruise or by long stand- 
ing. Stringhalt comes from these causes ; sprung knee is in- 
variably caused by a strain, which contracts the muscle of 
the arm ; by the contraction of the muscle it draws the 
cords, and causes the knees to get weak and crooked. The 
cords are swollen, which causes persons to doctor the cords ; 
this will do no good ; for it is impossible to relax a cord ; in 
fact, the cord itself is not contracted ; it is the contraction of 
the muscle which draws the cords so. By relaxing the mus- 
cle, it would drop the cords to their proper places, and give 
relief. Stringhalt is the same, it is the contraction of the 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 97 

inside muscle of the thighs. By relaxing the muscle you 
cure the disease. 

Cuke. — Take the common land turtle, and try them down 
and use the oil by rubbing on the muscle ; this will relax 
and cure the disease. 

BLISTERING. 

The most effectual blister is to make a blister ointment, 
as follows ; one drachm of flies, one drachm of resins, four 
ounces of lard. Melt the resin and lard together, then add 
the flies. Rub the parts with the hands until you create a 
heat, then apply the blister. This is good for strain in the 
pastern. 

The best liquid blister is cantharides and turpentine — 
equal parts. 

THUMPS IN THE HORSe. 

This disease is caused by too much feed and water, and 
fast driving. By filling the stomach with food and water, 
then driving fast, the stomach becomes distended with un- 
digested food, which prevents the inflating of the lungs ; the 
muscles of the lungs become sore and weak, and cause them 
to thump. If this disease is of long standing it will be in- 
curable ; but by a moderate quantity of water, and a rea- 
sonable quantity of grain, you will prevent this disease. 
It is brought on entirely by heavy feeding and watering 
with fast driving. 

BIG HEAD AND BIG JAW. 

These diseases are something the same as Spavin ; the 
bony substances form a deposit, and become ossified. Whilst 
this disease is in a gristly substance, it can be cured ; but after 
it becomes ossified it will be incurable. 

Cube. — Two ounces gum euphorbium fine ; one ounce 
Spanish flies fine ; two ounces corrosive sublimate ; two 
ounces iodine ; three ounces white pine turpentine ; three 
ounces lard. Melt the lard and turpentine together; then 
add the others. This, if a cure is possible, will effect it. The 
horse should be kept dry, and not fed very hearty. Use bran 
mashes, with one table spoonful of sulphur, two tea spoon- 
fuls of saltpetre, twice a week ; give one pint of linseed oil 
the first week. This will be all you can do. 

CRIBBING. 

This disease originates from a sour stomach. First caused 



98 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

by habit in biting the crib whilst eating, and in so doing the 
horse swallows wind, which causes the stomach to become 
sour. Over eating and drinking would aid in this disease. 
A horse with this disease is the same as a person that belches, 
and in the end the same as a dyspeptic. 

Core. — Take one table spoonful of pulverized charcoal; 
one table spoonful of sal soda, three times a week until a 
cure is effected. The horse should be fastened in some place 
where he cannot get hold of anything to bite. Fasten in the 
middle of the floor, and feed him from a basket, fastened on 
the head. By this he will forget the habit of biting his 
trough, and the disease will be effectually cured. 

CURE FOR FOOT ROT IN SHEEP. 

Take two pounds of blue vitrol ; three-fourths of a pound 
of verdigris ; one pint of spirits of turpentine ; four quarts of 
chamber ley ; simmer well together, take all the sheep, pare 
the foot so as to be sure to get all the infection out, then 
stand them in this so as to have it cover the feet. Repeat 
this two or three times, and a cure will be effected. 

CARE FOR HORN AIL OR HOLLOW HORN. 

This disorder usually attacks cattle in the Spring, after a 
severe winter; likewise those that are in poor flesh, or those 
that have been overworked and exposed to severe storms, or 
reduced by other diseases, are pre-disposed to take it. Symp- 
toms — eyes dull, discharging yellow matter, dizziness, loss of 
appetite, shaking of the head, bloody urine, coldness of the 
horns, stupidity, and great debility. Cure. — Split the tail 
up two or three inches, take one quarter pound of black pep- 
per, and a handful of fine salt, and bind on the tail. This is 
a sure cure. 

TO RECRUIT A HORSE, HIDE BOUND OR OTHERWISE OUT OP 

SORTS. 

Nitrate potasia (or saltpetre), four ounces ; crude antimony, 
one ounce ; sulphur, three ounces. Nitrate of potasia and 
antimony should, be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur,, 
and mix the whole well together. Dose, a tablespoonful of 
the mixture in a bran mash daily. 

MAGIC LINIMENT. 

Two ounces, oil spike ; two ounces, origunum ; two ounces 
of hemlock ; two ounces of wormwood ; four ounces of sweet 
oil ; two ounces spirits ammonia ; two ounces of gum cam- 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 99 

phor ; two ounces spirits of turpentine, and one quart of 
proof spirits ; nine per. cent. Mix well together and bottle 
tight. For sprains, bruises, lameness, etc., this liniment is 
unsurpassed and originally cost, (what it is really worth) one 
hundred dollars. This is the same liniment without the 
turpentine, which has achieved such wonderful cures for hu- 
man ailments. For domestic purposes it is invaluable. 

LINIMENT FOR OPEN WOUNDS. 

Sulphate of copper (copperas) one ounce ; white vitriol two 
ounces ; mixture of soda (salt) two ounces ; oil linseed, two 
ounces ; Orleans molasses, eight ounces ; boil over a slow fire 
fifteen minutes, in a pint of wine, all of the above ingredi- 
ents. When nearly cold, add one ounce of oil vitriol and 
four ounces spirits turpentine, and bottle for use. Apply it 
to the wound with a quill, which will soon set the wound to 
discharging, and perform a cure in a few days. Be careful 
to keep the wound covered, either by bandage or a plaster. 
Should be applied "once or twice a day, until it discharges 
freely. 

SIMPLE LINIMENT. 

Put into spirits of turpentine, all the camphor gum it will 
cut, when for ordinary purposes it is fit for use ; but if de- 
signed to reduce pain, add as much laudanum as there is 
turpentine. This liniment is as good as it is simple. 

COUGH POWDERS. 

Camphor, one ounce ; tartar emetic, one ounce ; nitrate po- 
tasia, two ounces, and digitalis, one drachm, if you choose. 

CONDITION POWDERS. 

One pound ginger ; one ounce anise seed, pulvd ; one ounce 
fenegreek seed ; two ounces ginseng root, pulvd. ; one ounce 
seed of sumac berries pulvd. ; one ounce antimony. Mix it 
with a pound of brown sugar. Excellent for coughs, colds, 
or to give a horse an appetite. 

HOW HORSES CAN BE TAUGHT TO PERFORM CERTAIN TRICKS. 

The readers of our present work, many of them, may de- 
sire to learn something of the mode of teaching horses such 
tricks as they may be able to accomplish. It well gratify 
the patrons of our book, therefore, if we afford them such in- 
formation on this head, as will prove interesting and useful, 
recom unending or promising that no horse should have more 



100 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

than one or two lessons per diem of not less than a half nor 
exceeding three-quarters of an hour in length. 

HOW TO MAKE A "BOW." 

Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and 
forefinger, and stand before, but a little to the left of your 
horse. Then prick him on the breast very lightly, as if a fly 
biting, which to relieve he will bring down his head, which 
you will accept as yes, and for which you will reward in the 
usual manner by caressing and feeding. Then repeat, and 
so continue until he bring the head down the moment he 
sees the least motion of your hand toward his breast, or sub- 
stitute some signal which he will understand readily. 

HOW TO SAY "NO." 

Stand by your horse near the shoulder, holding the same 
pin in your hand, with which prick him lightly on the 
withers, and to drive which away he will shake his head. 
You then caress as before, and so repeating, until he will 
shake his head at the least indication of your touching him 
with a pin. You can train your horse so nicely in this way 
in a short time as to cause him to shake his head or bow by 
merely turning the hand a little, or moving it slightly towards 
him. 

HOW TO TEACH YOUR HOUSE TO KISS YOU. 

Teach him first to take an apple out of your hand. When 
gradually raise the hand nearer the mouth, at each repetition 
until you require him to take it from your mouth, holding 
it with the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. 
He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth ; first, 
to get his apple, but finally because commanded to do so. 
Simply repeat until he understands the trick thoroughly. 

HOW TO SHAKE HANDS. 

Tie a short strap or piece of cord, to the forward foot be- 
low the fetlock. Stand directly behind the horse, holding 
the end of this s iio ap or cord in your hand, then say, " shake 
hands, sir," and immediately after commanding him to do 
so, pull upon the strap, which will bring his foot forward, 
and which you are to accept as shaking hands, thanking 
him for it by caressing, feeding, etc. By a little practice a 
horse may be easily trained to approach, make a bow, shake 
hands and follow like a dog, lie down, sit up, etc. 

HOW TO SIT UP. 

When your horse will lie down readily, you can then 
teach him to sit up like a dog, easily. If young, and not 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 101 

very heavy and strong, you can easily prevent his getting tip 
without tying down. First cause him to lie down, having 
on him, a common bridle, with the reins over the neck, then 
step behind him and place the right foot firmly upon the 
tail, the reins in your hands. Then say, " Get up, sir." 

Your standing on his tail will prevent his raising any fur- 
ther than on his fore-feet. Repeat a few times, use good 
judgment, caress, reward, etc., and you will soon have the 
trick taught perfectly. 



A very large number of recipes in this book have been 
collected at an unusual cost. They have all been obtained 
from the most reliable sources, and they are presented with 
the hope that their great importance and true value, will be 
fully appreciated. 

It should invariably be kept in view by all owners of 
horses, that it is far more easy to keep them in good health, 
than to cure them from disease. Avoid overwork and expos- 
use, exercise no excess of authority over them, and endeavor 
to keep them in good condition, this will be found far more 
easy and agreeable to do than to have to doctor and perhaps 
lose them. 



Various Methods of Making Money. 

In commencing the manufacture of articles from any of the 
following Recipes, it will be necessary for the manufacturer 
to employ agents to travel and sell. The materials for 
making the articles can be obtained at any Drug Store. 
These Recipes have been secured for the benefit of those out 
of employment, and for those who wish to change their 
occupation for something lighter and more lucrative. 

TO MAKE FIKE-PROOF PAINT. 

Take a sufficient quantity of water for use ; add as much 
potash as can be dissolved therein. When the water will 
dissolve no more potash, stir into the solution, first, a quan- 
tity of flour paste, of the consistency of painter's size ; sec- 
ond, a sufficiency of pure clay to render it of the consistency 
of cream. Apply with a painter's brush. 

The above will admit of any coloring you please. 



102 THK MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

PREMIUM BLACK WRITING INK. 

Take two ounces extract logwood ; one gallon soft water ; 
boil slightly, or simmer in an iron vessel fifteen minutes ; 
dissolve in a little hot water twenty-four grains Bychromate 
of Potash, twelve grains Prussiate of Potash, and stir into 
the liquid a few minutes while over the fire ; take off, and 
when settled, strain it twice through common muslin or 
sheeting cloth. The above Ink is a jet black from the first, 
flows beautifully from the pen, and is so indellible that even 
Oxalic Acid will not remove it from paper, and costs, when 
made in large quantities, only four cents per gallon. 

MAGIC COPYING PAPER. 

To make black paper, lampblack, mixed with cold lard ; 
Eed paper, Venetian Red mixed with lard ; Green paper, 
Chrome Green mixed with lard ; Blue paper, Prussian Blue, 
mixed with lard. The above ingredients to be mixed to the 
consistency of thick paste, and to be applied to the paper 
with a rag. Then take a flannel rag and rub till all color 
ceases coming off. Cut your sheets four inches wide, and 
six inches long, put four sheets together, one "of each color, 
and sell for twenty-five cents per package. The first cost 
will not be over three cents. 

Directions for writing : — Lay down your paper upon which 
you wish to write ; then lay on the copying paper, and over 
this lay any scrap of paper you choose ; then take any hard 
pointed substance and write as you would with pen. 

A PURE VEGETABLE SALVE. 

One pound lard ; one half ounce rosin, and ten ounces 
elder bark. Boil these over a slow fire for about half an hour 
then strain and put into small bottles, which sell for a shil- 
ling each. 

PATENT GOLD AND SILVER COUNTERFEIT DETECTOR. 

Take one ounce nitrate of silver, pure crystals, and one 
quart of pure rain water. Add together, shake well, and it 
is fit for use. To be put up in drachm vials, and sold for 
twenty-five cents per vial. 

ART OF PAINTING ON GLASS. 

The only difference between ordinary painting and paint- 
ing on glass, is that in the latter all transparent colors are 
used, instead of opaque ones, and the colors being ground up 
with turpentine and varnish instead of oil. In painting up- 
on glass, it is necessary, occasionally, to place the picture be- 
tween the artist and the light, to enable the artist to see the 
effect, the light having the property of casting a yellowish 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 103 

tinge upon all colors so exposed. This art is easily learned, 
and affords a handsome remuneration. 

i A USEFUL, EASY AND LUCRATIVE EMPLOYMENT. 

3 You establish a General Commission Office. To make it 
f plain requires some explanation. We will suppose you reside 
in a part of the country where there are large farming dis- 
tricts, villages, and perhaps a city or so. About you are 
thousands of farmers, hundreds of mechanics, artists, etc. 
These all have wants ; they either want to sell, or want to 
buy, or both. 

Example: — Mr. A. wants to sell a pair of oxen, 6 cows, 
some corn, wheat, etc. Mr. B. who lives three miles distant, 
wants to buy a pair of oxen, cows, etc. C. has two hundred 
cords of wood, and a heavy wagon for sale. D., who is a 
lumber man, would like to find about two hundred cords of 
wood, and wants immediately a heavy wagon. Farmer E. 
wishes to engage two good hands for the season. James and 
John are out of employment, they want work, but can't find 
any. Charles is a smart lad, Mary is a strong, tidy young 
woman, Henry a gardner, and they all want places. There 
are many families who want just such help, but it so hap- 
pens that these persons don't know of each other's wants. 
Now, it is to supply these and similar wants, that you estab- 
lish your business — a trading correspondence to meet individ- 
ual and public wants, in the line referred to. 

It might be said that these people supply their own wants. 
This they could do, provided they at all times knew how, 
or where to have them met. Here is the point of your busi- 
ness — to aid in supplying their wants. 

Example : — Last Spring, farmer A., wanted a pair of oxen. 
It was late in the Spring, and the corn ground must be 
broken. He had but one horse, and oxen he must have at 
any rate, if he could but find any for sale. Here was the 
difficulty, for he had already spent four days in a vain search 
although other work required his attention at home. Well, 
it so happened that Mr. B., a neighbor not far off, had oxen, 
cows, etc., and being nearly out of hay, must sell some of his 
stock. He could do all his work with his horses — his cows 
would soon be profitable — the oxen must be sold, and that 
too, quickly. He had been round nearly a week, trying to 
sell, but found no customers. Now, John, who is something 
of a Yankee, happened to know of both these wants, and 
says to Mr. B., " How much do you want for your oxen ?" B. 
answers, "If you will find a customer for them this week, 
you may have all over one hundred and ten dollars, they may 



104 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

bring. They will readily sell for one hundred and twenty- 
dollars, which is my price." So John rode over to Mr. A., 
and asked him how much would he give to know where he 
could get just such oxen as he wanted. Mr. A. says; "As 
my work must be done, if you can refer me to a pair to suit, 
at a reasonable price, I will give you five dollars." John 
sent him over the hill, and in less than two hours, Mr. A. 
was in his field plowing. Thus it is : they all have wants — 
and often very urgent ones — and their own interest would 
prompt them to pay for a means to supply them. Your 
business is a system of means and convenience for all such 
wants, for such they pay you whatever you see fit to charge. 

The manner of it may be as follows : — You select a room 
for an office. Provide yourself with two blank books, suita- 
bly ruled. One of your books is marked, " WANTED TO 
SELL," the other, "WANTED TO BUY." Mr. A. comes- 
to your office. He wants to sell six bushels of seed wheat, 
one horse, eight cows and a wagon. You note them in your 

first book, thus : " Mr. A., residing , has for sale seed 

wheat, (he has left a specimen,) one bay horse, six years old, 
sound and kind, eight choice cows, one light spring wagon." 
Mr. B. comes and wants to sell or buy, (as the case may be,) 
and you note accordingly. Now, for every entrance on your 
books you charge, say fifty cents, and should you be disposed 
to effect sales, you can also charge, say five per cent. Thus : 
A. has a pair of horses, and a lot of seed rye, worth two 
hundred dollars ; you effect a sale, and your percentage, with 
the fees, would amount to $10.50. All the outlay you need 
incur, is the rent, (if you hire,) which need not be more than 
$10 a year, and for calling public attention, through one or 
more papers nearest to you, to your business. 

The above is a general outline of the business ; the details 
you can arrange to suit your interest, convenience, etc. 

THE CELEBRATED CHEMICAL COMPOUND. 

Take one pint alcohol, two gills nitrous spirits ether, two 
ounces bychromate potash, two ounces powdered cinnamon, 
and one ounce aqua fortis. Mix all the above together and 
let it stand twenty-four hours, and it is fit for use. Bottle in 
two ounce vials, and sell for twenty-five cents. To extract 
Grease, Stains, etc., from cloth, saturate with cold water, dip 
a sponge in the liquid, and apply it, and repeat if necessary, 
and wash off with cold water. 

THE HUNTER'S SECRET. 

Take half pound strained honey, quarter drachm musk, 
three drachms oil lavender, and four pounds tallow. Mix all 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 105 

together, and make into forty pills ; one pill to be placed un- 
der the pan of the trap when setting it. 

TO MAKE SOFT SOAP. 

Take ten pounds of common yellow or rosin soap ; six 
pounds sal soda, and ten or twelve gallons of soft or rain 
water. Cut the soap into small pieces, and put the whole 
over a fire ; bring the water nearly to a boiling point, and al- 
low it to remain at that temperature until the soap is entire- 
ly dissolved. It may then be taken off, and when cooled, it 
will become thick and livery. The soap made with these 
proportions will be found to be too strong, and cold soft water 
can be added until it becomes of the proper consistency and 
strength. 

PATENT STARCH POLISH. 

Take Common dry potato or wheat starch, sufficient to 
make a pint of starch when boiled. When boiling, add half 
drachm spermaceti, and half drachm white wax ; then use it 
as common starch, only using the iron as hot as possible. 

RECIFE FOR MAKING WESTERS" CIDER. 

To one pound of Sugar (or Molasses) add one- third ounce 
tartar acid, two table spoonfulls of good yeast — dissolve tho 
sugar in one quart of warm water, put all in a gallon jug, 
shake it well, and then fill the jug with pure cold water, — 
let it stand uncorked twelve hours, and it is fit for use. 
This gives the proportions per gallon ; if made in barrel or 
keg, keep the bung out until it ferments. If it becomes too 
sour to drink, it will be the best of Vinegar. If made in cold 
weather, keep it in a warm room until it is fit for use. 

RHEUMATIC LINIMENT. 

Oil of sassafras, two ounces ; oil of hemlock, oil of cedar, 
oil of turpentine, of each one ounce ; gum camphor and cap- 
sicum, of each one ounce ; and add two quarts of alcohol, 
shake well together. Rub in with the hand or a flannel rag. 

INDIAN PILLS. 

Aloes, three ounces ; gamboge, one ounce ; castile soap one 
ounce ; extract gentian two ounces ; mix the articles before 
adding the extract ; then make it into a mass, add water if 
the extract is not soft enough. While working it up, add 
by degrees one drachm oil of peppermint. Make pills of 
common size. 

BEAUTIFUL BRIGHT RED LNK 

Cochineal two ounces, bruised ; pour over it one quart ot 



106 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

boiling water and let it stand. Boil two ounces brazil wood 
in one pint of soft water, for half an hour, and in twenty- 
four hours mix the two together. Dissolve half ounce gum 
arabic in a pint of hot water, and when cool,adcl to the other, 
stir well, and then strain it through muslin. 

SUPERIOR BLUE INK. 

Prussian blue six parts, oxalic acid one part, triturate with 
a little water to a perfectly smooth paste, and dilute with 
the proper quantity of water. Add gum arabic. 

INDELIBLE INK FOR MARKING LINEN WITHOUT PREPARATION. 

Nitrate of silver one and a half ounces, dissolved in six 
ounces liquor ammonia fortis, orchill for coloring, one ounce, 
gum mucilage twelve ounces. The best extant. 

LUMINOUS INK — SHINES IN THE DARK. 

Phosphorus, half drachm ; oil cinnamon, half ounce ; mix 
in vial, cork tightly, heat it slowly until mixed. A letter 
written with this ink can only be read in a dark room, when 
the writing will have the appearance of fire. 

RED RULING INK. 

Best carmine, four grains ; rain water, one ounce ; aqua 
ammonia, forty drops. A little gum arabic water may be 
added. 

YELLOW INK. 

A little alum, added to saffron, in soft hot water, makes a 
beautiful yellow ink. 

INVISIBLE INK. 

Sulphuric acid, one part ; water, twenty parts ; mix togeth- 
er and write with a quill pen, which writing can be read only 
after heating it. 

SUPERIOR WATER-PROOF COMPOSITION FOR LEATHER. 

Boiled oil, sixteen parts, spirits turpentine, two parts, 
beeswax and. rosin one part each, Venice turpentine two 
parts ; mix and use hot. 

GUNPOWDER. 

Nitre, seventy-six parts ; Charcoal, fourteen parts ; sulphur 
ten parts ; mix. 

SHAVING SOAP. 

Take four and a half pounds white bar soap, one quart 
rain water, one gill beef's gall, add one gill spirits turpen- 
tine ; cut the soap thin and boil five minutes ; stir while 



THE MONET-MAKER'S MANUAL. 10? 

boiling, and color with half ounce vermillion : scent with oil 
of rose or almond. 

HARD SOLDER. 

Copper two parts, melt and add tin, one part. 

SOFT SOLDER. 

Tin two parts, lead one part ; melt. 

SILVER PLATING FLUID. 

Dissolve one ounce of nitrate of silver in crystal, in twelve 
ounces of soft water. Then dissolve in the water two ounces 
cyanuret of potash. Shake the whole together and let it 
stand till it becomes clear. Have ready some half ounce 
vials, and fill them half fall paris white or fine whiting ; and 
then fill up the bottle with the liquor, and it is ready for use. 
The whiting does not increase the coating power, it only 
helps to clean the articles, and to save the silver fluid by 
half filling the bottles. 

GREAT PAIN-EXTRACTOR. 

Spirits of Ammonia, one ounce ; laudanum, one ounce ; oil 
origanum, one ounce ; mutton tallow, half ounce ; combine 
the articles with the tallow, when it is nearly cool. 

MATCHES. 

The ends of the tapers, or wood, should be very dry, and 
then dipped in hot melted sulphur, and laid aside to dry. 
Then take four parts of glue, dissolve it, and when hot add 
one part of phosphorus, and stir in a few spoonfuls of fine 
whiting, to bring it to the proper thickness. 

OIL PASTE BLACKING. 

Take oil of vitriol, two ounces ; ivory black, one pound • 
molasses, five ounces : tanner's oil, five ounces ; mix the vitirol 
and. oil together, and let it stand a day ; then add the ivory 
black and molasses, and stir it well together till it makes a 
thick paste. 

TO PRESERVE METALS FROM RUST. 

Take some melted beeswax and rub it over the article to 
be preserved. When dry, warm the article again, so as to 
get off the wax, and rub it with a cloth until the former 
polish is restored. By this means all the pores of the met a] 
are filled up without inj ury to the appearance, and rust will 
not attack it, unless very carelessly exposed to constant hu- 
midity. 

BLACK AND RED SEALING WAX. 

Rosin, beeswax, pitch and ivory black, melt together, and 



108 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

while warm, dip your bottle and set aside to cool. For red, 
use englisli red. 

COLOGNE WATER. 
One ounce each of oil rosemary, of jessamine, and oil ber- 
gamot, ten drops otto rose, to a gallon proof spirits — mis. 

HAIR RESTORATIVE. 

Take one ounce palmachrista oil, add oil of lavender to 
scent it ; let it be well brushed into the hair twice a day, for 
two months. An excellent oil. 

CURLING LIQUID FOR THE HAIR. 

Take two ounces of scrapings of lead, quarter of an ounce 
litharge of 'gold, one drachm camphor ; boil the whole in a 
pint of soft water for half an hour ; when cold, pour off the 
liquid, and add to it a drachm of the sugar of lead, and a 
drachm of rosemary flowers ; boil these up together, and 
strain off the liquid, when it is fit for use. 

CELEBRATED T00THP0WDER. 

Prepared chalk, four ounces ; alum, two drachms ; cream 
tartar two ounces ; white sugar, one ounce ; orris, one and a 
half ounces — mix. 

COUGH SYRUP. 

Take thirty drops of laudanum, twenty-five drops of 
ipecacuanha wine, and mix with a desert spoonful each of 
vinegar and honey for a dose. 

UNIVERSAL LINIMENT. 

Take one fluid ounce tincture of opium, and one fluid 
drachm tincture of iodine — mix. 

SUPERIOR PAINT FOR BRICK HOUSES. 

To lime whitewash, add for a fastener sulphate of zinc, and 
shade with any color you choose ; for yellow paint, add 
yellow ochre ; for red, add Venetian red, etc. 

PAINT FOR ROUGH WOOD-WORK. 

Six pounds melted pitch, one pint of linseed oil, and one 
pound of yellow ochre. 

BEST VARNISH. 
White wax, fifteen ounces ; yellow rosin, one ounce, pow- 
dered ; turpentine, one quart ; simmer till dissolved ; apply 
with a cloth, and polish well with a clean piece of woolen. 
LEATHER VARNISH. 

Boiled oil, thirty-two parts ; spirits of turpentine, four 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. ] 09 

parts ; beeswax, two parts ; rosin, two parts ; Venice turpen 
tine, two parts ; mix and use while hot. 
ALMOND SOAP. 

Best white tallow soap, fifty pounds ; essence of bitter al- 
monds, 20 ounces ; melt by the aid of a steam or water bath. 

FANCY SOAP. 

Dissolve two ounces of venice soap in two ounces of lemon 
j uice ; add one ounce of oil of almonds and one ounce oil of 
tartar, mix and stir it till it has acquired the consistency of 
honey. 

BUFFALO OIL. 

Take the best lard oil, and perfume it well with equal parts 
of oil garden lavender and oil lemon. 

MACCASSAR OIL. 

Olive oil, one pound ; oil origanum, one drachm ; oil rose- 
mary, one scruple — mix. 

MAGNETIC OINTMENT. 

Elder bark, spikenard and yellow dock roots, of each one 
pound ; boil in two gallons of water down to one ; then press 
the strength out of the roots and boil the liquid down to halt 
a gallon ; add eight pounds of the best rosin, one pound of 
beeswax, and tallow enough to soften. Roll into rolls, and 
apply by warming and' spreading on linen. 

■LAVENDER PERFUMED WATER. 

Two ounces oil garden lavender, one drachm essence am- 
bergris, six drachms oil bergamot. Mix with two quarts 
and a pint proof spirits. 

FLORIDA WATER. 

Half pint proof spirits, two drachms oil lemon, halt 
drachm oil rosemary — mix. 

NON-EXPLOSIVE BURNING FLUID. 

Take five quarts alcohol, one quart camphene, and two 
ounces pulverized alum ; mix, and let It stand twenty-four 
hours. If transparent, it is fit for use ; if not add sufficient 
alcohol to bring it to the natural color of the alcohol. The 
cover of the lamp must fit close, and a tin stopper be kept 
over the tube, when not in use, to prevent evaporation. 

STIMULATORS FOR BALD HEADS AND BARE FACES. 

Tincture hartshorn, one ounce ; borax, one-half ounce ; al- 
cohol, one pint ; water, one pint ; tincture cantharides, two 
drachms. 

Graham's. — Cologne, two ounces ; liquid hartshorn, one 
drachm ; tincture cantharides, two drachms ; oil rosemary, 
twelve drops ; oil nutmeg, twelve drops ; oil lavender, twelve 
drope. 



310 THE MONET-MAKERS MANUAL. 

To The Reader— In Conclusion, 



In as much as this little volume is destined to have a most 
extensive sale and to become a book of guide and reference 
to many thousands of farmers and others throughout the 
broad lands of the Universe, before closing the last page of 
the work, I deem it to be my duty not to neglect earnestly to 
warn and caution all my country friends and others of the 
great danger of remitting- money in letters to New York city 
to unknown parties who are continually flooding the country 
with circulars offering great and extraordinary inducements 
for the investment of money in accordance with such circu- 
lars. Many of the circulars mentioned are from swindling 
concerns who receive the remittances from inexperienced 
persons and yet deny their having done so, and never send 
the goods promised therefor, or if they admit the receipt of 
the money they will declare they have sent the goods as or- 
dered and paid for. This, to those who think from the fact 
that they are honest themselves that every one else must be 
so, may be startling news, nevertheless it is true that this 
city contains some men whose morals have become so de- 
praved as to render them unfit members of society, a disgrace 
to the community, and total strangers to truth and justice. 

Our country friends, therefore, wishing anything from this 
city, will wisely have all money letters registered, or send 
money orders, and even then avoid sending money to 
strangers of whose responsibility, character and standing they 
know nothing, and remit to some friend or person with 
whom they may have had dealings and who may be known 
to them as responsible, requesting them to make the purchase. 
To those who have no friends h«re or parties with whom 
they can entrust their orders, we stand ready and willing at 
all times to lend a helping hand. By our being centrally lo- 
cated in the most business part of the city we can often do 
many favors for our correspondents, with the assistance we 
have, without much inconvenience to ourselves. A stamp 
must be enclosed in all cases where an answer is required. 

We did not intend that this book should in any way serve 
as an advertising medium, but through urgent solicitation, 
we have been induced to accept a few cards or advertisements 
from parties with whom we are perfectly well acquainted 
and whom we know to be upright, fair dealing and responsi- 
ble. These we conscientiously recommend as worthy of pub- 
lic patronage. 



Tricks for Horse Jockeys. 



TT WILL BE OBSERVED that I have freely given through- 
J- out this entire work of Eare Eecipes and other Valuable In- 
formation. It would afford me pleasure to continue and reveal 
the secrets of these tricks also, if I was satisfied in my_ own 
mind that in so doing I would be benefitting the community at 
large. It is reasonable to suppose, however, from their very na- 
ture, that the owner of the horse "treated," will in all cases be 
the loser, and that the person possessing the " method " will be 
a great gainer. Such being the case, I consider it not only 
right and proper, but my duty, to make a small charge for the 
Tricks, by which I may realize a trifle toward compensating for 
the vast amount of study, research and experiments necessary 
to bring them to their present state of perfection. 

%3^"IIow to Make a Foundered and Spavined Horse go off 
Limber. Price One Dollar. 

^THow to Make Old Horses Appear Young. 

Price One Dollar. 

$W*How to Make a Horse Appear as if Foundered. 

Price One Dollar. 

§^~How to Make a Horse Fleshy in a Short Time. 

Price One Dollar. 

pW~How to Make a Horse Stand by hi* Feed and Not Eat It, 

Price One Dollar. 

fcWHow to Make a Irue-PulUng Horse Baulk. 

Price One Dollar. 

^^ m How to Stop Mood Instantly in All Cases. 

Price One Dollar. 

P^~Hoto to Make a Horse appear as if lie had the Glanders. 

Price One Dollar. 

All the above Tricks will be sent to any address for $5, or $1 
each for a single one. They are sold with the express^" under- 
standing that they shall be used by the person purchasing only, 
and that they shall not under any circumstances be revealed by 
him, either directly or indirectly. They are warranted to never 
fail. Address, 

J, W. STEPHENS, 

No. 37 Park Row, New York. 



(in) 



112 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

Another Method. 

By the methods given for Training, Educating, and Subduing 
Ilorses in this work, no Medicines are used. Some Trainers 
seem to think they must have Powders, Oils, &c, but we have 
never found it necessary. However, as we frequently have or- 
ders for them, we keep on hand, prepared, the Best Preparation 
there is of this kind; and can send it to all who wish for Three 
Dollars a Package. 



The Beautiful Art of Chinese Chronotype ; 

OR, IMPROVED 

Photochromatic Oil Painting. 

This is a New Style of LANDSCAPE PAINTING, executed 
by a chemical process of producing an impression on glass, from 
landscape views, wood cuts, or lithographic prints. By this 
process we obtain a full impression of the outlines on the glass 
as perfect as they are in the original. They are then colored and 
shaded by a new process without the use of paints or brushes, 
and when finished are fine specimens of art, which for boldness 
of outline, soft blending of colors, and rich shading of back- 
ground will rival the most costly oil paintings. This-method of 
coloring has all the effect of oil paints, giving the glass the ap- 
pearance of canvass ; and so closely do they imitate an oil paint- 
ing that they will deceive the best judges. The art of landscape 
painting is considered by almost every person, especially by la- 
dies, to be an accomplishment worth spending some time to ac- 
quire. But most kinds require so much practice, that few per- 
sons can afford to spend the time necessary to become proficient 
in the art ; in this respect our photochromatic painting is superior 
to any other, as it requires but a few hours' practice to enable 
any person to execute a good picture. 

We have printed instructions for doing this painting, by the 
aid of which any person can, in a few hours' time, execute a 
good picture without the aid of a teacher. The whole process is 
so simple, that it can be understood and practiced by any person 
of ordinary ability. Even children, not over twelve years of 
age have learned it, and been able to execute some very good 
specimens. The chemicals and all other materials used cost but 
a mere trifle, and can be obtained at any drug store. 

These instructions would be cheap at from $3 to $5 each ; but 
in view of the limited circumstances of many, we have, in order 
to place them within the reach of all, reduced the price to 50 
cents a copy. To Agents we furnish these instructions complete 
for $1 . 50 per dozen. Persons sending 50 cents for a single copy, 
and afterwards taking an agency, will have the 50 cents allowed 
on their order Address, 

J. W. STEPHENS, 

No. 37 Park Row, New York. 



THE MONET-MAKER'S MANUAL. ]1 & 

Watches and Jewelry. 

Probably three-fourths of the swindling carried on by mail, 
in this and other cities, can be traced to the golden bait furnish- 
ed by Jewelry. We shall not refer to the modus operandi hero, 
but simply point out a way by which all may avoid imposition. 
Our frienis will always find it to their interest in purchasing 
jewelry to go to a first class house and pay a fair price for a 

food article. This rule holds true for all the wants of life— -the 
est will generally be found the cheapest in the end. 
In view of the demand for, and difficulty in obtaining 
Watches and Jewelry in the country, we have, for the benefit, ot 
our Customers who may want anything in that line, made ar- 
rangements with a first class Importing and Manufacturing 
House on Broadway, whereby we can furnish Watches much, 
cheaper than they can be purchased of your Watchmaker, even 
if you reside in a city, for at retail they charge the enormous 
profit of from fifty to one hundred per cent, while we get the 
goods at the regular wholesale trade price, and charge only ten 
per cent for our profit and trouble^ which is included in the 
prices given in the following list of goods : 

English. Watches at Gold Prices. 

Gold, Open Face, English Levers, . $45 to $65 in gold. 
" Hunting " " . . 70 to 90 " 
" " " " finer quality 90 to 110 " 
' " " best makers, 
in extra heavy 18 karat cases, richly en- 
graved and enamelled, . . 110 to 135 " 
Gold, Magic Cased, English Levers, extra 

heavy, 16 to 18 karat case, . . 140 to 170 " 

Silver, Open Face, English Levers, . 20 to 25 " 

•' Hunting, 25 to 40 " 

" " " finer qualities 50 to 75 " 

Swiss "Watches at Gold Prices, 

Gold, Hunting Cylinders (ladies' size), at $25 to $35 in gold. 

Gold, Open Face, Ancre Levers, at . .25 to 35 ** 
" Hunting «« " 45 to 60 " 

" " " " extra fine 

quality of case and movement . . 60 to 70 " 

Gold, Open Face, Ancre Lever, double time, 
independent second, Compensating Bal- 
ance, 18 karat case . . . . 60 to 65 " 

The same movement in Gold Hunting, 18 karat 

case 110 to 135 '* 

Gold, Hunting, Ancre Levers (ladies' size) 40 to 50 " 

Gold, Hunting, Ancre Levers, (ladies' size) 
celebrated makers, richly engraved, en- 
amelod, and diamond set . . 70 to 85 " 



]14 THE MONET-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

Silver Hunting- Cylinder Watches, etc, at 
Gold Prices. 

Gilt, Hunting Cylinders . . . $6 50 to $7 50 in gold. 

Silvered, " " . . . . 6 50 to 7 50 "' 

" " Ancre Levers, . 8 00 to 9 00 " 

Silver Hunting Cylinders . . . 9 00 to 10 00 " 

" " Ancre Levers, $10, $11, 12 00 to 13 00 " 

" " Ancre Levers, finer qualities, 12 00 to 18 00 " 

Gilt, on Silver, Open Face Cylinders, 6 00 to 8 00 " 

" " Hunting, Ancre Levers, 

fine quality, . ... 14 00 to 18 50 " 



Patent Gold Plated or Pilled Case Watches at 
Currency Prices. 

Patent Gold Plated or Pilled Hunting Case, with Ancre 
Lever Movement, (ladies' and gents' sizes) — accord- 
ing to size and quality of movement . . $45 to 55 

The same style of case with English Lever Movement, 

according to quality of movement . 65 to 75 

The same style of Case with American Lever Movement 

—according to quality of movement . . . 56 to 65 



We desire to draw your attention to the Filled ok Patenx 
Gold Plated Cases/ mentioned above. They are intended to 
supercede the low karat cases now in use, and which all the 
Trade know will not retain their color in warm weather. The 
patent plated case is made by sweating or plating a bar of 16 or 
18 karat gold on each side of a bar of composition, which is 
rolled down to the required thickness ; from it the cases are 
made by patented machinery, which forms the case without re- 
moving any of the gold from the outside, it being plated suffici- 
ently thick to admit of engine turning and engraving without 
cutting through the fine gold. These cases will wear equal to 
the finest solid ones for at least one generation, and on melting 
they will be found to' have an equal 'value of gold with the eight 
karat, solid case, as now made; and they possess the great supe- 
riority of having all the gold, where it is wanted, on the outside. 
It will be observed that these cases are of uniform thickness. 
The centres are of one piece and consequently much stronger 
than when soldered; and the machinery, by which they are 
made, also stiffens and strengthens them far better than any low 
karat cases ever made. 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. H5 

, The constant fluctuation in the price of gold renders it im- 
possible to give reliable currency quotations on such goods as 
English and Swiss Watches, and Diamond, Opal and Pearl Jew- 
elry. We are, therefore, compelled to quote the prices of the 
same in gold. The currency price can be ascertained by adding 
the current premium on gold to the gold prices as given. For 
instance, when gold is quoted at 140 it would be necessary to 
add 40 per cent to the gold price. 

We furnish DIAMOND, OPAL AND PEARL GOODS, and 
every description of Fine Gold Jewelry, Gold Chains, &c. 

We will be pleased to receive your orders for anything you 
may require in this line, and guarantee satisfaction. 

The goods are warranted to us, we, therefore, warrant them 
to you, as represented, or we will take them back. 
Address, 

J. W. STEPHENS, 

No. 37 Park Eow, New York. 

■ N. B. We can also furnish still cheaper Watches. Also, all 
kinds of Cheap Jewelry — but very cheap goods will not give 
satisfaction, we cannot therefore recommend any one to purchase 
them. 



The Great Wonder of the Age. 

INVISIBLE PHOTOGRAPHS. 

A New Process in Photography, by which the sensitive Albu- 
men Paper is so _ prepared, that upon the application of the 
Blotting paper which accompanies each package, 

A BEAUTIFUL AND PERFECT PHOTOGRAPH WILL 
INSTANTLY APPEAR, 

The Invisible Immediately Becoming Visible ! The whole 
thing is so Perfectly Simple, that 

EVEEY MAN, WOMAN, OR CHILD 

Can actually become their Own Photographer, thus combining 
a new, novel and 

Instructive Entertainment for the Parlor. 

Price 50 Cents per Package. 
Liberal Inducements to Agents and the Trade. 
Address, 

J. W. STEPHENS, 

No. 37 Park Eow, New York. 



116 THE MONEY-MAKERS MANUAL. 

To the Married, or Those About to Marry. 



During an extensive practice of several years, I have found 
one of the most fruitful sources of disease to be the various 
modes resorted to by married people to prevent a too rapid in- 
crease of offspring. The country is flooded with quack nos- 
trums, injurious and unreliable '•' recipes," &c, all of which 
have been produced, of course, because there is an actual de- 
mand for some reliable prevention; and it is a matter of not 
much doubt in my mind that the health of married females has 
been quite as much deteriorated by their use, -as it would have 
been had they actually given birth to a child as often as once in 
fourteen months or two years. But the femalfe has not alone 
suffered through their use, for that which is injurious to one of 
the sexes, under such circumstances, is invariably detrimental 
to both. 

Prevention pills, taken internally by the female, tend to 
weaken the muscular fibres of the womb, and, if successful as a 
prevention, in a very short time produce obdurate barrenness ; 
then "female weakness" necessarily follow, when purulent and 
excoriating fluids are exuded from the internal membranes, and 
the male, at each copulation, becomes innoculated w:th the virus, 
by which the powers of his generative organs are debilitated, or 
absolutely destroyed. Many will appreciate the truthfulness of 
this remark under the incentive of sad experience. 

The use of caustic washes as injections produces the same re- 
sults, though more rapidly; and many a lady who is buffering 
under the most aggravated forms of leucorrhea can trace its ori- 
gin directly to its application. 

The use of water, as an injection, has met the approval of 
some, but it is by no means reliable, and fails eighty cases in a 
hundred; besides, the frequent application of cold water to the 
vagina, in a little while deadens the sensitiveness of the female 
sexual organs, from which arises a disinclination for sexual in- 
tercourse. # r 

A more common mode of prevention is resorted to by the male 
and is usually termed " withdrawing." This practise is more 
disastrous to health than all the rest, because its effects are de- 
veloped so gradually that neither the male nor the female is 
really aware of its injurious tendency until their systems are 
shattered to a frightful extent, and not even then, unless they 
are somewhat acquainted w.th the teachings of physiology. To 
both sexes it is little better than self-pollution. In a natural and 
full intercourse electricity, individual, chemical, and frictional, is 
evolved, and it is the action of this wonderful agent on the deli- 
cate nerves centreing on the sexual parts which produces the 
pleasurable sensations ; and it is at the moment the discharge 
of the seminal fluids take place that a quieting equilibrium is 
restored between the parties, by which the agitated nervous sys- 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. ] 17 

terns of both are recompensed for the excitement which they 
have undergone. 

There are many other pernicious practices resorted to, but 
those I have briefly considered are the most common. That a 
harmless and sure prevention, in the hands of only medical 
men and the married, mast conduce to the health and happiness 
of the human family, there can be no reasonable doubt. Such 
is the testimony of all medical writers. Dr. Hollick has made 
some very truthful remarks on this subject. He says: "It, is 
well known that there are many severe diseases to which females 
arc subject that can never be removed while they conceive, but 
which, if unci red, ore sure to become fatal, and' probably also 
descend to their children. Some females, also, have deformed 
pelvises, and can never bring forth live children, while others 
are certain to die if the child remains in the womb till it is a cer- 
tain size. Besides these cases, how 7nany there are that remain 
in constant ill-health and suffering from constant child-bearing, 
without the possibility of relief or escape. 

" It is not generally known that it is the regular custom in 
medical practice, when a female has a deformed pelvis, or is 
otherwise incapable of being delivered at the full term, to pro- 
duce abortion. This, however, is the invariable custom ! and it 
is done because it is thought better to sacrifice the foetus only 
than to let both die, as they assuredly would if the gestation 
were allowed to proceed. Now, it may well be a question in 
such a case, whether it would not be better to teach how to pre- 
vent conception altogether. I am confident that much of the 
horrible practice of procuring abortion, now so prevalent among 
married people, is caused by the want of bimple and reliable 
means ef prevention. 

"There are few persons, except medical men, who have any 
idea of the extent to which the revolting practice of abortion is 
now carried, nor of the awful consequences that frequently fol- 
low from it. Every female who undergoes any of the disgust- 
ing; operations practiced for this purpose, does so at the risk of her 
life, and to the almost certain destruction of her health if she 
survives. Those that take drugs are also equally exposed to 
risk. Every female may be told with truth — and, indeed, every- 
one ought to know — that there are no safe means of abortion. It 
is true that some few may undergo the ordeal in safety, but none 
can depend upon doing so, and the chances are ten to one that 
death, or the evils referred to, will follow. A general knowl- 
edge of this fact would do mi ch to prevent the practice, but it 
would not do away with it altogether, unless some reliable 
means of prevention were known, and in many cases it must be- 
come a choice between abortion and prevention. 

It is possible forpersons to avoid havinga family without using 
preventive means. But the deprivation required will not be un- 
dergone by the great mass. Conception may be avoided by all 
who will abstam from sexual intercourse for about sixteen clays 
after the monthly flow has ceased. This arises from the fact that 
the membrane covering the orifices of the fallopian tubes, and 



118 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

lriing the uterus, is ruptured, or torn off, and it takes from ton 
to sixteen days for it to become renewed. 

Whatever may be the views of the rigid moralists in regard to 
the employment of means for the prevention of conception, the 
necessity of such measures can be clearly shown and justified by 
every principle of humanity and virtue. Excessive child-bearing 
may be truthfully said to be the bane of general society. It is 
not only destructive of the vital powers of the female herself, but 
entails innumerable ills upon subsequent posterity, in bringing 
children into the world, like Shakespeare's Kichard, " scarce 
half made up," and liable accordingly to every species of in- 
firmity, inducing further physical and mental degeneracy upon 
generations destined to spring from enfeebled loins, and lack of 
that peculiar zest of sexual commerce only incident to the elec- 
trical or nervous force concommitant of a sound physical and 
mental organization of the human being. 

The excessive mortality among infants and children, between 
one and five years of age, is chiefly traceable to inherent debility, 
and a lack of that vis medicatrix naturoe so necessary to the 
healthful and vigorous unfoldment of the human organism. 
This excessive waste of human life is surely unnecessary, and 
can be readily prevented. 

There should be a fixed period to allow for natural gestation, 
lactation, etc. The period from the time of conception to the 
weaning of the child from the use of its mother's milk, should 
cover at least two years. Such a rule would prevent that terrible 
drain upon the vital juices of the woman, incident to excessive 
child-beai'ing. which so often destroys the flower of her days, 
robs her of her beauty and strength, and drags her down to an 
untimely grave, not only herself but her innocent and helpless 
offspring. 

W ith these startling facts and arguments staring me in the face, 
I shall not hesitate to reveal such information as I am in posses- 
ion of, for the prevention of conception. There are reliable and 
harmless means* which never fail in effecting the object, and it is 
but right and proper that they should be placed in the hands of 
the married. Those who accord with me in these views, and 
desire to avail themselves of the means science and art have thus 
far afforded, are refered to the following. 

Firstly, 1 will speak of the "Membraneous Envelope." This is 
an improvement on the ordinary French Male Safe or Condum, 
and, like it, entirely envelops the penis. Unlike the "Safe," 
however, it is a good conductor of magnetism or electricity, and 
permits the free and unobstructed influx and efflux of individual 
electricity in the act of coition — also the combined action of the 
alkalies and acids. The Condum or Safe is manufactured from 
the intestines of sheep, hogs, etc., and is more or less permeated 
with oleaginous or fatty matter, which is a non-conductor of elec- 
tricity, and consequently a non-conductor of the magnetism of the 
pexes. Then, too, it is quite too thick to render its use agreeable. 
The Membraneous Envelope is prepared from the bladder of a 
fish caught in the Khine. It is flexible and silky in texture, and 



THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 119 

a perfect conductor of electricity and magnetism, being entirely 
free from fatty matter. In consequence of these peculiarities, 
and its extreme thinness, its use does not in the least interfere 
with the pleasure of the act, while its susceptibility to electrical 
influences renders its use entirely harmless. It is also more re- 
liable, because stronger. This fact would seem almost incredible, 
when I say that it takes nearly two dozen of the "Membraneous 
Envelopes" to weigh half an ounce, the average weight of each 
being only about ten grains ! But, notwithstanding their fineness 
of texture, it would require as much force to break one of them 
as would be necessary to abrade the mucuous membrane of the 
glans-penis. There is not the least danger of their breaking, and 
in this respect they are vastly superior to the article they so 
much resemble. In cases of ulceration of the womb, leucorrhcea, 
or any other venereal disease, the use of the Membraneous En- 
velope is of the greatest utility, because, while it is a sure pre- 
ventive of conception, it also prevents either party from con- 
tracting disease. It is of course impossible for the male to con- 
tract a disease from the female, or a female to contract a disease 
from a male when it is used, and this is a decided recommenda- 
tion for it, when it is remembered how commonly even married 
ladies are diseased in those organs, and how often, too, virtuous 
ladies are physically contaminated by vicious husbands. Many 
married men are proverbially promiscuous, and do not attempt 
to hide their habits from their wives, and such persons, particu- 
larly, ought, for humanity's sake, to employ the Membraneous 
Envelope when having sexual connection with their wives— and 
the latter could not be blamed for rigidly insisting upon it. The 
Membraneous Envelope can be sent by mail with ordinary letter 
postage, and will be supplied at five dollars per dozen, or three 
dollars per half-dozen. A sample will be sent for one dollar if 
wished. 

Secondly. " The Apex Envelope.' 1 ' 1 This is certainly an ingenious 
contrivance, just large enough to cover the glans-penis without 
enveloping the whole organ. It is composed of rubber of a deli- 
cate texture, not thicker than the cuticle itself, and so shaped and 
bounded at the open end with an India-rubber ring, that, when 
adjusted to the glans, it adheres so closely as to appear almost 
like & part of the organ itself. 

It is entirely a new thing as well as the " Membraneous Enve- 
lope," and is preferred by many. It, however, has this objec- 
tion ; rubber is a non-conductor of electricity, and also imper- 
vious to the action of either the alkali or acid. Inasmuch as the 
Apex Envelope does not cover the whole penis, however, it does 
not prevent the interchange of the individual electricity, but it 
does prevent the generation of chemical electricity in the copu- 
lative act. Herein it is defective. There can be no question as 
to its safety, if properly adjusted. 

This article can be enclosed in a letter with ordinary postage, 
and will be supplied at three dollars per dozen, or two dollars per 
half-dozen. Sample, fifty cents. The foregoing are used by the 
male. The following means may be resorted, to by the female : 



120 THE MONEY-MAKER'S MANUAL. 

Thirdly, and lastly. The Womb Veil. This consists of a con- 
trivance which the female easily adjusts in the vagina before cop- 
ulation, and which spreads a thin tissue before the mouth of the 
womb, so as to prevent the seminal aura from entering. It is an 
ingenious invention, and one which has already proved a great 
blessing to thousands of females. This prevention possesses 
the following qualities: Conception cannot possibly take place 
when it is used. The full enjoyment of the conjugal embrace 
can be indulged in during coition. The husband would hardly 
be likely to know that it was being used, unless told so by the 
wife. Its application is easy, and accomplished in a moment, 
without the aid of a light. It places conception entirely under 
the control of the wife, to whom it naturally belongs ; for it is for 
her to say at what time, and under what circumstances she will 
become the mother, and the moral, religious, and physical in- 
structress of offspring. It is durable, and will last a great many 
years. Science, it seems to me, can hardly give a more complete 
contrivance than this for the prevention of conception. For this 
specific purpose nothing yet discovered can equai it for simplici- 
ty and utility. When seen, it speaks for itself, to any one conver- 
sant with the anatomy of the female organs. Physicians who 
examine it, at once pronounce it "just the thing." Nor can I see 
that any harm can arise from its use. It permits the free and un- 
obstructed interchange of individual electricity and the union of 
alkalies and acids, and, in fact, obstructs no function in copula- 
tion, except the reproductive. Since its invention I have intro- 
duced it quite extensively, and to all it appears to give the highest 
satisfaction. The Womb Veil, with its necessary appendages, 
can be obtained by mail. Price three dollars. Sent closely 
sealed to any part of the United States, postage paid, on receipt 
of the price. 

I have now introduced the only reliable means yet discovered 
for the prevention of conception. There are various other con- 
trivances and theories put forth, but, after a careful examination 
of them, I feel constrained to say that I cannot conscientiously 
introduce them or recommend them here. They are either un- 
reliable, injurious, or absolutely dangerous. I have endeavored 
in this essay to avoid everything charlatanish, and to recommend 
only such means as I feel convinced are worthy the attention of 
married people All orders must be accompanied with the cash 
to receive attention. 

I would say to the reader, by way of caution, that I have not, 
nor shall I, nave agents for the introduction of the foregoing 
articles. It would be an easy thing for unprincipled persons to 
impose imperfect and unreliable imitations on those who are not 
familiar with such things, and consequently those who want theci 
will do better to send their orders directly to me. Communica- 
tions, with regard to these matters, wiil be treated with the 
strictest confidence. All communications must be addressed to 
S. W. CLARK, 

No. 145 Nassau Street, New York. 



m*z 



